flechero

I just did a search and found a post from Larry on his site saying: Now I'm curious as to what it is. Anyone have a pic or a good description?

You could split it and glue it back together on the blank. It's a second choice but can easily be done. I've done rubber winding checks that way before and some of them I can't even find the seams. Just use a fresh razor blade to cut, cut on an angle and make sure the I.D. is large enough that you don't have to stretch it to glue together or you will have an ugly seam.

I'm of a different belief or maybe just more enthusiastic... That argument used to come up a lot... but comes up much less, ever since Ca went from 21-7 to 25-1 lbs in a single fish. I'm a huge believer in this... just because she hasn't been caught, doesn't mean she's not there. The odds of catching the biggest fish in the lake FAR EXCEED the odds of ever catching her. And yes, at 37 years of age, I still wake up before 5 am on Christmas morning.

how about a pic or the model rod? Hard to make a suggestion blindly.

Yup, it's kind of a "cone" of eva with a couple coats of threadmaster over it.

I know your question was primarily directed towards factory rods but I don't want people to make broad assumptions. Often times a builder uses burl cork or another material that is heavier than natural cork and the split grip is needed to avoid an overly heavy or out of balance rod. Also in a custom, you can tailor the grips to achieve an exact balance point, by varying the size or shape of grip(s). A split grip also gives you more lattitude to alter grip size and shape to fit the hands of a customer.

I can honestly say that my buyer's remorse has comes from cheap fishing rod or reel purchases, where I talked myself into saving a couple bucks... it almost always backfires. I had 1 mediocre experience with a JDM reel but that is resolved now. (and was my only high end reel purchase I wasn't immediately thrilled with) I think you will really like the Curado. (I have 2 of them) I can't/won't comment on the rod but I think you made a good decision on the reel... except that you might start liking your other reels a lot less.

Cliff, I've done it a couple ways... put the rod in the dryer and elevate the front support so the rod angles uphill towards the tip. Then keep applying finish until you get almost enough there for the ramp. (you'll need to wait a little while for it to start to thicken so it will suspend) The angle of the rod will help keep it how you want it until it sets up the rest of the way. The key to a good ramp is to do this in 2 (or 3) stages... the first gets it close (but rarely dries as a perfectly tapered ramp) and the second pass is to make it all even and correct any waves or depth. The other way is to make a ramp out of thread, quick set epoxy or another material and then put finish over the top. The pic below actually shows the eva ramp under it (you can see it in the camera's macro shot but it's not visible to the naked eye) which was turned when I shaped the grip. Just remember that finish will show almost everything underneath, including the reel seat arbor, (yup I forgot that once!) So whichever route you go, just be sure it all looks good before the finish goes on.

Here are a couple options... just about any supplier of rod components will sell something the same or similar. http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/EVA http://www.fishsticks4u.com/Components/Batson/BT_BU242.htm#2

djmaxx22 The MG's have as much drag as most reels... outside of the revo series. I don't know about you but most people break rods when playing with more than 10 lbs of drag. As for winching them out of cover, the rod does the work, not the reel. Any reel's handle will just spin when working with pressure over the current drag setting. The biggest complaint in using a 50 MG as a flipping reel is that it's physically too light to help balance the rod, not that it can't handle the work.

More info does help but the flipside is that some people answer certain questions (best rod for example) with a rubber stamp, regardless of info and budget provided. Some stuff definitely gets "senko-ized" but without any repetitive topics, the is would be more like a library than a forum. Admittedly, there are some things I pass over because they get asked so often. You wouldn't even need a search to find some stuff, just look towards the bottom of page 1. ...lol The answers or perspectives do change with different people...

There are 2 types of retipped rods... 1. a tip top (guide) was replaced due to damage or wear 2. a new tip top (guide) was put on where the rod broke. If #1, there are no concerns for me. If #2, the rod will now be shorter, stiffer and slower. There are very few times that #2 is a good thing. And I have nott ever seen a "factory retipped" rod... so that throws up a red flag to me, at least with out a better explanation. The old expression: if it sounds to good to be true, it probably is (#2). ;D

Yup... cork grip, graphite blank, metal guide frames and they wrapped it with thread- just like a GLX. ;D ;D ;D ;D The rumor is always that someone is or has compared it to Loomis... nevermind who says it, the context or if it's really even been said. : The dobyns rods might be the best thing out there... but given the trouble last time, I would wait until they hit the mainstream market before pronouncing them absolute greatness... a few people did that last time as well.

I used to bank fish with one rod. When I got older I took 2 and had a belt with a rod holder on it so I didn't have to lay the other one on the ground. The key is to look at the day's conditions and bring the right rod- which is the one that covers the 2-4 techniques you expect to need. Most often I used a 6'6" or 7' MH fast. I could use it for t-rigs, c-rigs, flukes, buzz & spinnerbaits, and more. If you don't mind retying lures, then it's easy to find rods that will fish well with many different lures. Best advice, don't over think it. Keep tackle simple also... if you take more than a fanny pack or small backpack, it's probably too much. In a boat, it's a whole different story.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. on a separate note, we need to go hit stillhouse when the weather warms up. (what lake do you call home?)

Nice job, and the possibilities are endless.

It just goes to show you that a good holster is worth it's weight in gold. ...lol On serious note, glad no one was seriously hurt or killed. The other side of this is that most modern handguns are specifically designed to withstand being dropped or impacted, without discharging. I would bet money that there is more to this than it "fell out of the holster." :

Matt, I appreciate the honesty and info. I've decided to go ahead and put another tank model in until we do the rest of the remodeling. By then we will have gas and there will have been another few years of working out the kinks in the tankless technology. I can replace what was there for $300... so it's not a big deal. Thanks again for your help. Keith

I always use Owner trebles as my replacements. (if they make the right size) They are so sharp that even when I'm careful, I bleed all over the table when i replace hooks... They are very strong and they remain sharp for a long time. Not to mention, I've had extremely few fish ever come unbuttoned on Owner hooks.

I was afraid of this... when I looked the the lowe's and depot site, the reviews were not very good. I have found other brands that seem better, but with no real life feedback on them you never can be sure. Mind if i ask what brand(s) you guys sold? Gas is for sure my first choice but we won't be bringing gas into the home until the rest of the remodel happens, in 2-4 years. But the water heater needs to be replaced now.

Unfortunately, no. We may add gas at a later date but for now the house is all electric. The specs on the ones I'm looking at more than cover my hot water needs. (and I have sufficient electrical capacity to run them)

I will be replacing the water heater shortly and am considering a tankless model. Certain space and future remodel considerations would benefit from a tankless model. I know there are some drawbacks but I *think* that it's not an issue, based on our current situation. To any of you that have one, what has your experience been? Good and bad experiences appreciated. Thanks, Keith

There you go, Fluke, I fixed it for you. ;D

Gives new meaning to a replica! ...lol So what happens if you catch a bigger one? ;D

On a driled spool, I'll tie through the holes so the arbor knot lays inside one hole and it all lays flat. on a regular spool, I just tie a 1-2 turn clinch knot so I can pull it down w/o having to trim the tag end.