flechero

RW, This isn't the best example but it's the best I could do w/o driving to boat storage to get an X-fast rod and a true moderate rod to show how much more dramatic the difference really is. Very quick and dirty set up. 2 rods, a 7' hvy, fast and a 7' hvy, mod-fast. Same jig, same weight. The first is a mod-fast notice how the rod tends to not bend at the tip? This is because the design of the taper has a stouter tip so it forces the rod to bend nearer the center. When loaded the backbone is giving slightly which makes the rod feel softer, even though the power is about the same. The second is a fast, notice how the rod beds more towards the tip? This is due to the tip being (softer) weaker, by comparison. When fully loaded, you feel the backbone more pronounced because most of the movement is in the tip of the rod. By comparison, this is the softer tip.

I'm one who has choked on my own foot a few times also! ;D I'm guessing you were kidding, at least partly, in the other thread. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt. ...lol

Glenn, I can't even begin tell you how bummed I was when I found out this year's date... It's a great event!! I think you will really be touched when you experience it. Some of the area surrounding the lake is still rebuilding from last year's floods (the lake was over 30' high for about 8 months) but things are getting back to normal. There is a new restaurant that just opened on the bluff by the dam, called the Dead Fish Grill... a patio seat around sunset is beautiful, and popular so get there early.

I do agree that the ratings are a good thing, most of the time, but the reason I went into detail was that the OP was getting close to splitting hairs on the weight, and seemed concerned about it. As was stated, for most people (probably 80%-90%) the ratings are just fine. I just didn't want anyone to pigeon hole themselves based on a "guideline."

That really strikes me as funny since you said in the other thread that you have no issue back seating a co-angler until after you have your limit. I hope you remember hoping for a lucky draw, next time you have a co-angler with you.

Not everybody is going to do that. You might, but not everybody. I know a lot of pro's even that are fishing for more than 5k and still keep the coangler in mind. Well than I guess they are just better people than I'am. Well, that a real shame.... Sure is. So much for promoting sportsmanship and the goodness of fisherman. There is more to life than a measly $5k. Someday you'll learn that.

I've had rods/blanks break in PVC but never seen a tube S'd like that! Here is why I hate cardboard, with FedEx or UPS... had one from each look like this. Miraculously, the Loomis IMX blank was still in one piece!!!!

In answer to your first question, a 1/4 oz spinnerbait should be 1/4 oz as packaged. The lead should be less than 1/4 oz so that the complete bait is as rated. However, as you add trailers to spinnerbaits and chunks to jig, you gain some weight. My opinion differs slightly from RW and Sam on rod ratings. Two important things not yet mentioned. 1. Rod specs are someone's opinion, not a mathematical formula or physical measurement of the rod's power and action. 2. Rod specs do NOT account for casting style or tip speed. For example, I always cast the low end of the range better and have no trouble going a little lower than recommended. But normally in the top half of the range is problematic for me. Why? Casting style. I learned BC using light weight baits on heavy rods. Rod tip speed accounts for much of my casting, not a baits weight making the rod load up. I have to consciously slow down my casting as I use heavier baits in a rod's "range."

Nice work!

I use an epoxy gel for all my (rod) bonding needs and use threadmaster finish. For bonding, I prefer a thicker product... it stays put and won't run or drip. I also seem to waste less. As for finish, I use threadmaster regular for thread finish and just got some of the lite for use as a decal undercoat.

I've built on a number of the Batson blanks. The RX7 is one of the best values on the market, regardless of brand. I have been pleasantly surprised by each one I have built. They fish like much higher priced blanks. I built a RX7 crankbait rod... all I can say is sweet! (and I hate cranking!) ...lol

The cardboard tubes I have only found at tackle shops. You can use a PVC tube and end plugs... probably cheaper than what you already spent in time & gas looking for cardboard... and PVC is stronger, waterproof and available almost everywhere.

Now that's a happy ending!

Kent, Let me look tonight and see if I have a pair of blanks (one mod / on fast) and snap a pic with a same weight to show this visually. Worst case I'll try to get one of a 7'H X-fast vs. a 7' H fast... same idea just further up the blank.

That stinks! At least you got to prove that it's worth ordering more... think if you just hung it and lost it at the start. There are probably some valuable lessons in there if you pick it apart.

And often times neither does the marketing department. :-/

Maybe I can confuse this a little more for you. The truth is that cranking rods are a slower taper (called action) not a lesser power. A typical "moderate" action (cranking rod) will bend into the middle of the rod at a point that it's "loaded." Loaded is defined as the amount of pressure or weight required to deflect a blank to 1/3 it's length in inches. ie: a 6' rod requires 24" of deflection to be fully loaded. It takes the same amount of pressure to deflect a fast taper rod to the same degree, in that power. The difference will be that the faster taper will bend more in the tip and a slower taper will bend more towards the center- still deflecting the same distance with the same pressure. Picture lifting a weight with the two rods, both would lift the weight, exactly to the point of being loaded but one would bend (more) in the tip and the other (more) towards the middle... same power different action (and feel). The slower taper feels softer, it is not weaker. When overloaded, the faster action rods feel heavier in power (stronger) since you have increased leverage. The common misconception is that a cranking rods have a soft tip- the real case is that the tip is more firm which causes the rod to flex deeper into the taper. This is why a cranking rod feels softer and won't pull hooks out as bad. It's a difference in "backbone" not in the tip. If you fought a fish or worked a deep crankbait with the tip only, we wouldn't need slower tapered rods. If you don't believe me hang a weight of the tips of 2 equal power rods of different taper. The faster rod has the softer tip which bends more under the same pressure. Lastly, the rod's material (glass or graphite) has no bearing on the ratings. Glass and graphite fish differently but you are talking mostly about the subtleties of extra weight and a slower rebound, not a difference in action or power.

Check your prices again... the 1/2" rings of exotic burl are all $1.25ea. or 100/$100. I believe the trim rings are the $0.85 ones. Well worth the money, either way. I use exotic burl on every rod I build that gets cork. (I used EVA on a couple cranking rods) Lamar's Exotic burl is dense, tough, good looking, easier to work with and gets tacky when wet... all qualities I want in a grip material. And the bonus- you won't have to ever buy or use cork or wood filler in any grip you build! I use the regular burl for giveaway rods, prototypes and arbors... not for anything "nice." "Real cork" is of no interest or value to me. It is a detriment to a split grip, which is all i build. As for real cork in nicer grades- most of it is a sham. I spent a couple hundred dollars in the beginning on premium, Flor, ultra flor and #1 cork rings, from different suppliers. And to say I was ripped off was an understatement. I got one decent grip built from all that cork. The rest was junk so I just used it practicing my turning skills, and trying different grip profiles. To this day, I have not seen a true #1 grade cork ring in real life. My advice to all new rod builders is to actually spend less and buy Exotic burl in the beginning, you'll spend less but get much more, in every respect, except frustration.

Color is not important. Green, brown, white... as long as it's a fish! We don't even care if there is an accidental Bud can left in the background! ;D

Thinking like Raul.... fish closer to home, launch closer to your spots and pack a lunch. You'll save a lot of money for tackle.

There is no brand of rods made commercially where many haven't been broken by some tourney anglers somewhere... including Loomis, St. Croix, All Star, Shimano, Daiwa, etc, etc. That would be like me asking if BFG was a good tire, since I know someone who got a flat on a BFG tire. 99.9% of the time, it's the angler's fault that a rod breaks. Buy the rod and don't worry. If it breaks, you have a warranty.

I guess that's a different story if the old finish is peeling up anyway. I never thin finish... and I have never had a bad finish experience. (knocking on wood!!) Anyway, I've read lots of nightmare stories about finish problems, fisheyes, incomplete cure, etc. and most are from people who stray from the manufacturer's instructions, usually by thinning. If you are concerned about either penetration or thickness of coat, use the light or low build in your brand of choice and don't stretch the pot life out. Getting a thin coat applied is pretty easy, it's when you need a thick, even coat that you have to manipulate things sometimes.

If they went under, your mortgage would be either sold to another lender or investor (as would all the assets) or if Citi is just servicing your mortgage, another company would take over the servicing of it. The only change you would likely see is that your payment might go to a new P.O. Box than it did before. No free house, sorry.

Dang it, RW, if we take up a collection and buy you a camera, will you use it? ;D

Not so fun on a steep, slick boat ramp, in a 2wd truck. ....lol