Todd Driscoll

What error message are you seeing? The Mark 4 is fully compatible with the Navionics Premium cards (not Platinum). As nicebass said, current software version is 1.6.0. Check your version under the Settings Menu, System, About.

Sounds like you may already have the units at the dealer, but first thing to check is input voltage to unit power plug with a voltmeter. The two largest pinholes on the plug are input voltage.

I owned a 2000 and a 2004 Ficht-injected Evinrude. Blew the 2000 powerhead up three times, and blew the 2004 once. I was getting about 100 running hours on each before they blew. I would stay away from a Ficht.

Here are some starting points for 2D sonar and StructureScan settings: 2D sonar - First, make sure you have the current Gen2 software (1.1.39.39). Check your version at Menu, Menu, System, About. Sonar Auto mode works very well. Keep the unit in 200 kHz. Under sonar settings, select Shallow Water (for our purposes this is water < 60 feet deep) and set scroll speed to normal. Also, under Installation select your appropriate transducer. Under Sonar Menu, I run Ping Speed at 18-Max. Colorline I like at 85. For shallow water, especially around grass, I prefer color palette 1. For deep water or with lakes void of grass, I like palette 13. This was called bottom color tracking in the older units, helps separate fish from the bottom/cover, and also shows hard bottoms/shell beds better. Find current software update here: http://www.lowrance.com/en/Downloads/Product-Software-Updates/HDS-Gen2-Software-Update/ StructureScan - In typical freshwater depths (15-30 feet), your sidescan range will work best set at 2-3X the depth. 60-80 feet is where mine is most of the time. Range can be operated in either Auto or Manual – I prefer Manual. Of course, as you move deeper than 30 feet, increase your side scan range accordingly. In depths less than 100 feet, run frequency at 800 kHz. Contrast is what you will adjust the most as you change water depths. I prefer contrast between 65-80, with less contrast in shallow water and greater contrast in deep water. I also like the default color palette 6.

The user interface with NavPlanner is somewhat complicated. What you have to do is go to your Waypoint Library (second icon on top menu) and Import your .usr file (first icon on library menu at top).

Yes, NavPlanner will work with older units. One other note - with HDS and NavPlanner, you must save your HDS .usr file as version 2 or 3. NavPlanner is not compatible with version HDS version 4 files.

To view and edit your Lowrance .usr file, you need wpt management software. Lowrance MapCreate is now out-of-date and is hard to find. I prefer Navionics NavPlanner2 software. With this software, not only can you import your wpts, but you also have all the Navionics maps built-in to view on the computer.

Yes, I would say it is normal given you were in < 10 feet of water over submerged vegetation. Really, the two main things you will adjust are Contrast and Range. The white, washed-out look you are getting is a result of too much contrast. I typically run mine between 60 - 80, with more needed as you move deeper. Try lowering the contrast to around 60 when in depths < 10 feet. Running Auto Range with downscan works well, but I do prefer to run side scan in Manual Range (at times, Auto has it too high to see good detail). HDS 8 and 10s have quickkeys to adjust range, but given you have the HDS 7, you would have to go into the Menu to adjust. The clutter you are seeing in shallow water is due to air bubbles from waves/prop wash, and just suspended particulates. Nearly all of this clutter disappears in 10 feet and deeper depths. You can increase your level of surface clarity in the LSS menu to minimize this when in shallow water, but I would turn it off when using in > 10 feet.

If mounting the ducer directly to the transom using the provided screws, installation instructions call for a 1/8" drill bit. But I just always compare whatever screws I'm using to the drill bit to ensure that what I am drilling are pilot holes (i.e., smaller than the screw diameter).

Sounds like the LSS is losing bottom. Like Jig said, running in Manual depth range may correct it. Loss of bottom could be a result of beam kickback related to your ducer mount. Could also be a faulty LSS module or ducer. Can you post a pic of your ducer mount and LSS screenshots, both when it's working and not working?

2D sonar - First, make sure you have the current software (Gen1 - 4.1.36.68; Gen2 - 1.1.39.38). Check your version at Menu, Menu, System, About. Recent updates have focused on enhancing sonar returns. Sonar Auto mode works very well. Keep the unit in 200 kHz. Under sonar settings, select Shallow Water (for our purposes this is water < 60 feet deep) and set scroll speed to normal. Also, under Installation select your appropriate transducer. Under Sonar Menu, I run Ping Speed at 18. Colorline I like at 85. For shallow water, especially around grass, I prefer color palette 1. For deeper water (> 15 feet) or with lakes void of grass, I like palette 13. This was called bottom color tracking in the older units, helps separate fish from the bottom/cover, and also shows hard bottoms/shell beds better. StructureScan - In typical freshwater depths ( < 30 feet), your sidescan range will work best set at 2-3X the depth. 60-80 feet is where mine is most of the time, but I am primarily using sidescan in 15-30 feet. When in 15 feet or less, use a range of 60 feet or less. Range can be operated in either Auto or Manual – I prefer Manual. At times, Auto Range adjusts range too high preventing you from seeing good detail. Keep your frequency at 800 kHz. I prefer contrast between 65-80, with less contrast in shallow water and greater contrast in deep water. I also like the default color palette 6.

As Rhino said, with a good battery you won't have any issues. But, when you wire the StructureScan, you will need to do this through a switched power source. You can either use the HDS unit PWR as the switch by connecting the yellow wire on the StructureScan power cable to the yellow wire on the HDS power cable (StructureScan is on when the HDS unit is on), or as you suggest, wire the StructureScan yellow wire through a toggle switch and have independent control of power to the StructureScan.

When you Ethernet-link the bow unit, you will be able to view the StructureScan on the bow unit, and you will also be able to view your transom 2D ducer at the bow as well. With this said though, you will also want to install a 2D ducer on the trolling motor to see what is directly below you when at the bow instead of 20 feet behind you. The StructureScan just supports one ducer, so to also have independent StructureScan at the bow you would have to add another complete LSS and put this ducer on the trolliing motor as well.

I find that the biggest source of confusion is powering the LSS. Of course, red (3-amp fuse protected) and black are wired to 12 V power source. The yellow wire must be connected for the LSS to function, and must be through a switched source of power. Easiest way is to connect the LSS yellow to the HDS unit power cable yellow. This way, the HDS unit PWR serves as the switched power for the LSS (i.e., anytime you have the HDS unit on, the LSS is on). Alternatively, you can wire the yellow through an ACC switch to control the LSS power independent of the head unit.

The ducer width is the same as LSS-1. On the length, the LSS-1 is 6.83 inches, while the LSS-2 is 10.13 inches.

That is just the direction that memory cards are trending now, driven by the cell phone industry. Plus, on the smaller Mark/Elite units, physical size played into the decision.

Yes and no. With the new LSS-2 HD (both the ducer and box), you will have better overall clarity than the LSS-1 (with LSS-1 transducer or with LSS-2 transducer) and the LSS-2 HD will perform better in rough or wavy water than LSS-1 will. LSS-2 transducer on an LSS-1 box will give you expanded range over the LSS-1 box with LSS-1 transducer, but you won't have the advantage of the enhanced clarity with the LSS-2 box. The LSS-2 transducer is longer and how more clarity is gained.

Dag, any dealer or distributor order placed after February 21 was filled with the new StructureScan HD. I'd check with whoever you placed the order to see. Projected ship date for the new HD will be April.

Providing up to 600ft scanning ability to either side of the boat and greater resolution, the new StructureScan HD is the next step in evolution for this already established and amazing technology. See link below for more details. http://www.lowrance.com/Products/Marine/StructureScan-HD/Features/

I use both Navionics and the built-in Lowrance mapping. Navionics is great for contours and topography, especially for their HD lakes (1-foot contour intervals). Lowrance mapping is better for pre-impoundment features - creek channels, roadbeds, bridges, foundations, etc. It's just a couple of Menu selections to toggle back and forth from each map.

What unit is this, and are you trying to read the built-in Lowrance mapping, or are you running an aftermarket mapping card? If you are still having problems, a soft reset may fix it, but I need to know what unit you have.

Thanks for the link Al. I knew there had to be an aftermarket company making splashplates for various jackplate brands but never could find them.

I agree with the others. GPS is a much higher priority for me on the bow than DSI, and the Elite 4 units are a great buy for the price.

I use what is recommended by state fisheries agencies, and that is "noniodized stock salt" that you can find at your local feed store. By nature, bass blood is 0.5% salt solution. You add this salt to create a 0.5% salt solution (1/3 cup per 5 gallons of water) in your livewell to prevent what is referred to as osmotic imbalance. This imbalance is a major factor in the delayed mortality - that is, fish that die several days after tourney release. See page 20 of the BASS fish care document below for more details on livewell additives. IMO, the whole document should be required reading for all tourney anglers. http://assets.espn.g..._bass_alive.pdf

I prefer to mount them on the splashplate cover if possible - works great like this. You can mount them on the lower side frame of jackplates without the bottom cover, but you tend to get some beam kickback from inside the jackplate frame.