QUAKEnSHAKE

Of the Croix rods I have the LTB casting rod I like the least. Id save and get an Avid.

Give them a go use the lightest oil you can like REM oil anything thicker will pretty much take any advantage away.. I have SS7's in a Shimano Core50mg7 work very nicely.

The slowest rolling sb I have ever used doesn't have a swivel.

Shimano Cumara reaction series medium light power moderate fast action.

16# Sniper FC on 7'M/F rod 10# braid 7'6"ML/MF rod 60# braid on another and & 7'6" MH/F rod ned rigs paddle tails frogs 130 whopper ploppers

So what you are actually saying is you dont want a good ultralight line.

Most likely is. Absolutely no reason you shouldnt be casting farther with better bearings that allow less braking if casting easier results in same distance, other than lack of skill. This would be like saying 4 brakes on gets the same results as 2 on. Given the same effort 2 brakes on will cast farther than with four brakes on, might be more difficult for some people but less braking 2pins vs 4pins WILL result in longer casts. Are you saying you get the same distance no matter how many brakes you use? And when comparing distance a person usually compares same lure to same lure. Doesnt make sense to compare an Ika casting to a 3/4oz big bladed spinnerbait. You compare ika to ika and so forth. A Stock Core50 with well cleaned bearings throwing an IKA wont hang with a Core50 with ABEC7's thowing an IKA. If gains arent noticed thats on the operator.

Noticeable improvement casting distance with older braking system of Shimano VBS(E & Core) & SVS(Chro CI4). With their newest SVS Infinity(70 & Chro MGL) and the ability to run lighter braking profile not much of a differenced noticed. Casting the same distance easier equates to longer cast using same effort the limiting factor being users ability/skill.

If that is something you would like to wear go for it wear it proudly dont bother with what some tool says about what you spend your money on. Make sure SHIMANO is prominently placed.

Yeah dont think its moving an 1/8" not that much space between spool and frame. 1/16" total maybe with spool tension cap nearly falling off. But you only need a 1-2mm wiggle. If too loose line could get between spool and frame. So check and make sure there isnt a gap showing near the edge of spool when you wiggle it a bit. If on a cast and you get some chatter tighten tension cap a little at a time.

I interpreted OP as using braid backing with 100' or so of FC on top not like a 5' leader piece. I go straight FC or straight Braid no leaders even in very clear waters dont notice difference in catch/bite rate ever.

You've been duped by the mono fanboys and braid haters. Fact are facts and mono/fc lines have memory and want to spring uncoil itself. Braid will not do this it will stay on the spool without uncoiling on its own. It is inherently more controlled on a spool than the other lines.

Oh some pro said to do it so the minions followed suit. Id like to see actual testing that it gets more distance on regular low profile reels.

I bought the latest shimano offerings and daiwa offerings in the $280 and below range as far as reels go. Not going to purchase any new ones til a major improvement comes along. From the early preview releases of what in the pipe nothing interesting on the way. Rods the same way nothing there interests me. Im pretty stuck on getting lighter rods, with same power, compared to what I have now and there is nothing available. Thought the Phenix Feather series might hit the mark, said to be very light, but to get the power the weight goes up past my current rods. Lures pretty set there. About 5 lures make up 99% of my arsenal. Senkos, Ikas, Keitech Fat Paddletails 3.8" 2.8", SK Rocket shad spinnerbaits. Ive bought lots of them on very good sales now just letting it ride. Oh and MEND-IT is a blessing it literally pays for itself ten fold.

Yep run that tension loose. On my tats dropping a senko from 1 foot high will result in big overrun same on all my reels.

At 3 times the price it should be. BUT dia vs dia regular PP has better knot strength at least with palomar, SDJ and fishnfool knots. Id put Smackdown about number 4 on my list of braids I have used.

Location location location. In Rockford IL with $130k a year a new Ranger being pulled by a new F150 is quite doable. Plus you can have both kids in private school and house paid off in about ten years if its not a mansion. 401K funded nicely and one year of income in the bank.

I have a Tat SV that screeches on the cast noise will come and go. Ive yet to open it up to check out the bearings though but sure there is an issue with at least one.

The ML I use #8 Nanofil with 1/8 heads and mostly 2.8" fat keithech or 3"- 4" regular swing impacts. The M is #16 Sniper FC with the 1/4 heads and 3.8"-4.3". The Trokar hooks are SHARP penetrate easily.

Nope disagree with this. Smaller cranks use smaller wire hooks that penetrate a bit easier very rare to have a small crank tossed while using braid/nanofil and a ML/Mod 8' rod.

If you have a nice moderate action spinning rod Id use #8 braid of some sort no leader for finesse cranks sub 1/4oz.

Pictured is a 3.8" fat with 1/4oz head 1/4 oz has 3/0 hook 1/8 oz has 2/0 hook I use Medium power Fast rod with 1/4oz and ML/Mod rod with the 1/8oz.

Is the H3 7'6" L/MH/Fast ever in stock??? thats the one I want http://www.kistlerrods.com/store/fishing-rods/helium-3-fishing-rods/light-medium-heavy/helium-3-light-med-heavy-7-6-fast-fishing-rod.html#.W-0DmehKg2w

Maybe it's the balance of the rod that is causing issues. A very light and balanced rod is a joy to fish.

Dont really care who the leader is who is the most popular what the hooks cost. I care about the results I personally get and in my experience VMC catch fish miss less strikes than the owners I have tried. I also choose Gamakatsu Deepthroat over any owner for same reason.