mcipinkie

I've used SI on the bow ever since it came out. Very useful. You learn quickly how to control the rotation of the TM. You can actually use the rotation for for a crude 360 if you try. Now I have M360 on the bow. It's replaced SI. If I didn't have it, I would still use SI.

No! You don't need a dedicated jerk bait rod. You need at least 2, preferably more. I carry 4 in the Skeeter this time of year. 2 - casters, 2 - spinners. Plus a couple other rods, than I can use if needed. All of mine are old, 20 years and counting. Short 6'-6 to 6'-10. Mostly glass.

Get on AZ and buy a couple of $50 Kast Kings. I have boat full of medium to high dollar equipment. Got a notification about this time last year from AZ of a KK sale. $50 reels for $25 What the hey, I can always throw them in the trash. Ended up buying 5 over a few months, and am very impressed. Graphite frames. I prefer aluminum framed reels for power work (Heavy flipping, frogs, etc) so I use these for lighter applications. Cranks, jerks, spinner baits, etc. Highly recommended. Buy you one or two and practice casting. ALL bait casters will backlash unless you either tighten them down so much you can't cast, or you learn to cast. I've been throwing bait casters since the 1960's. I turn everything in the reel off. Wide open. I used to take the magnets out of my reels to speed them up. After years of excessive practice, and lots of backlashes, I can handle almost anything. Start out with some spool friction and some braking with the goal of turning them off.

Not intending to insult you personally, other than you happen to fit in this group. People like you that have never owned or operated a boat have no business starting out in a 21', 250 HP bass boat. You have no basic boat skills and are now going on the water in a boat that probably will run in excess of 70 MPH. It isn't the same as driving a car. I really isn't. I would be much more concerned about my children's safety in a big, fast boat driven by someone totally experienced than the size of the boat. You can learn all the technical stuff. Lots of good sources out there. What you can't learn without serious water time is basic seaman skills. Get you a small boat. Stay off big water. Learn how to launch, retrieve, tie up, fish, maneuver, and all the other basic skills. Spend lots of water time. I'm 78 years old, started out a long time ago in my dad's 12' jon boat with a 5.5 HP motor. Worked my way up through various size boats until now. I'm running (because I choose to run this size boat) a 19.5' Skeeter ZX200 with a 200 HP motor. I can run almost 70MPH. I've been running high performance boats for almost 30 years, and I still scare myself occasionally.

If you really want reliable high speed sonar readings, get out of the bilge. Get a Stern Saver, or equivalent. Epoxy it to the transom of the boat and mount a skimmer to that. XNT-9-20T for my Helix 12. Now you have an adjustable transducer mount. When you epoxy one in the bilge, no adjustment. Get the aluminum bracket, not the plastic one. I run about 1/4 inch below the hull line and have a very good signal, depending on water conditions, to about 45 MPH. Still get a usable reading at 60. Seldom go faster. Every once in a while, I'll kick it up on wood. I re-did the transducer mount and moved the toothed washers. I just lay on the back deck and push the transducer back to where it goes. I've been running this way since I bought my first Skeeter in 2002, and will never have another shoot through. Another advantage, you just get better returns when the transducer is in the water, not shooting through some unknown thickness of fiber glass. I have multiple rants scattered on various sites on this subject.

"I have been trying to make it a habit of retying every trip, as I noticed a couple trips ago the knot had come undone or broken I can’t remember (possibly from aforementioned cold exposure?) Line was relatively new, respooled a month or two ago." Anyone but me think think the OP has defined his issue. Retying every trip won't get it. Big Game is good line. Palomar is good knot if tied correctly. Regardless of knot or line used, if the OP is "trying" to retie every trip, he's is deep trouble. Should be retying every hour or so and trying to spool new line every trip. So to be an . . . hole, but the truth is the truth.

Looks good to me. My Ultrex sets the same on my Skeeter and has on two others. My only concern is if enough room for the motor to move aft when you hit something. I'd go fishing.

We used rubber washers a long time ago on aluminum boats thinking they worked for noise isolation. Doubt they did, but we used them. I put old conveyor belting under under a motor I rigged in the 70's. Doubt it did anything. I've cut the flange off the MG mounts and bolted for the same reason. I don't like the sheet metal screws, would rather use the MG mounts, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. I put toggle bolts in a old boat many years ago when I couldn't get nuts on the bolts. There are lots of good blind fasteners to chose from now. I'd avoid sheet metal screws. Look like a weak spot IMHO. The screws might work if you can get good bolts in the rest of the holes.

The 1/4 flat bar would be ideal. The unistrut washers would work. I run an 80 lb. Ultrex on my old Lowe Big Jon. I doubt my deck is 1/8 thick. I have no problem. 6 - 1/4 stainless bolts, big washers, Nylok nuts. I put a piece of treated 1 x 6, or 1 x 8, on top of the aluminum and bolted through. I think I used this to raise the TM up so it would land correctly when stowed. Make sure you check this.

I remember when the Lucky Craft jerk baits first hit the scene. $14 for a jerk bait. I swore I would never spend that much, and that I could match them with a Rogue. Now my standard is a Stunna. $15 per. I also have a box of MB jerk baits, some of which I ordered from Japan at $30 per, most at $25. Don't say you'll never buy a $35 dollar spinner bait. Next year, you'll have a box of them.

It's the same thing that makes a new NRX cost $650. People are willing to pay. I imagine the actual cost difference between the NRX, and say a BPS Carbonlite, is negligible, but people want what they perceive to be the best and a significant number will pay the price. You can buy a Cadillac, or a Lincoln, truck. Some people do.

Who cares? Just go fishing and try to catch something.

They are worth about $6.00 according to Tackle Warehouse. There are some Kool-Aid drinkers that will pay a lot more for old ones, but they really ain't worth it. I have a few old ones and catch just as many fish on the $6.00 ones.

The theory of wake responsibility is nice until you live on a pleasure boater lake. From 1000A until 800P, the lake I live on is a steady procession of skiers, wavers, tubers, pontoons, you name it. The lake on the weekends, or after work, is a continuous maelstrom of waves. Any, and/or all, are beating the snot out of everything. Everyone knows that. That's why most of them moved here. There is about 100' of no wake area from the bank, but once a bunch of boats get going, it's meaningless. You have to learn to protect your stuff from the action. If your dock will allow, docking bow out is much preferred.

Pick whatever brand you like or find on sale. Not really that much difference. I would suggest you stay with a reel with an aluminum frame. Composite frames are OK except when you put a large strain on them. IMHO. I don't like high speed reels to frog fish. Lower gear ratios mean more power. I stay in 6 to 1 area. Works for me. I throw Lews Super Duty's. Tanks of reels.

Big Game with a fancy label and high price tag.

Boss Fishing if you like to buy jigs bare and add your own skirts. Highly recommended.

I just bought two Kast King baitcasters from AZ for $32 each. Already had one from last year that I worked the snot out of. I am retired and averaged 22 days a month last year on the water. When I say worked the snot out of that reel, I mean hard. No complaints. Daiwa and Shimano see those big credit cards a comin'. I know somehow that the Zillions and Steez, and a lot of others, are better reels, but I can't prove it, and these are bottom end, cheap reels for Kast King. I can afford the high dollar stuff, but prefer to buy jerk baits. I haven't tried the KK rods or line yet, but I'm going to.

Your question is a little confusing. Can you see a map on your unit? Is the map showing your current location? The unit should recognize the card. Put it in before you power up. You can select the map source from the HB menu. menu, menu, chart, map source, auto. You can select other sources if you want. Is your GPS working? If not, it won't read the map. Take the chip out, power up the unit. Try to view a map. Base map should load. Be patient. If you have moved a long way, it will take time for the GPS to find satellites.

Any rod in that price range will be a "good" rod. The question is which fits your needs. I'm relatively affluent, fortunately, but I don't buy status. I buy tools. I'm buying BPS rods right now. Mostly Crankin' Sticks for pull baits and Fish Eagles for drop baits. $80 per.

I wouldn't buy either with my money, but since we are spending yours, buy which ever is cheaper. They are both good, or bad, depending on your perspective, but for all practical purposes the same, and definitely over priced.

I have confidence in every lure I throw. If I don't I won't throw it. T-rigs are an excellent choice at times, depending on the lure hanging on the hook. Sometimes there are better choices. Every lure in the BPS catalogue will catch fish. You just have to decide what, when, where. I use my experience to determine (guess?) what is the right bait to use given the circumstances. Sometimes I'm right. Sometimes I ain't, but I have confidence that what I'm throwing will catch fish. There are lures and techniques I like to fish more than others, but sometimes pink Sluggos are what they want, or even worse, a drop shot. I don't like to drop shot, but when I pick one up, I have confidence it will catch fish. Learn to use every technique you can. Sooner or later that will be what the fish want.

If I was hunting a jerk bait rod and couldn't find an old Daiwa VIP Glass, or a Garcia Ike Delay, I'd buy a 6'6 M or ML BPS Crankin' Stick. It's a good as any of the high dollar rods.

47 entries, most of which I never heard of. I assume local sticks. Caught 'em pretty good, though. Too good ? The debate will start soon. Would the scopers have caught more? If not, then scoping ain't the key to success. Just good fishing skills and probably local knowledge. Same as always. I'll bet most of the 47 had FFS on their boat before the derby, so had to disable just to fish. I like the idea of a circuit without FFS. I like a choice. Hope it does well. Don't really see how it can unless some non-fishing sponsors. Money just doesn't pan out. Paying out $225K of $235K entries. Just a big local derby like we fish here. 50 boats. 1 in 7 pay. $200 entry instead of $5K, but basically the same. I'd fish non-FFS derbies here in Missouri if available. Not at $5K and no practice. Not at $200 and no practice except on one or two lakes. Good Luck !!

You can go on and on ad infinitum about which rod/reel is best. The sad truth is no matter what you decide, YOU are going to have to learn to use it. Using a bait caster requires skill. You get it only one way. As Mr. Swindle says, "It takes years of excessive practice." At least to cast as well as he does. Buy yourself a medium quality rod and reel and practice, practice, practice. You are going to get frustrated, but until you develop the basic skills, spending lots of money on high dollar toys is a waste. I'd buy a $125 reel, which ever brand feels best to you. They are pretty much the same in that price point. Buy an $80 - $120 rod. 7'-0 MH/fast. Once you get the basics under control, then you can think about burning up your credit card. FYI, I am retired, relatively affluent, fish at least 20 days a month, moderately serious tournament angler. What I have suggested is what I use. Fish can't tell the difference between a Steez and a LFS. Look at Kast King. I'm impressed