mcipinkie

Only one correct answer - "You have to have both in as many colors as you can afford."

Click Bait !! Get me some more views. That's how I make money. Not often I agree with Glenn, but he's spot on. "This video has been hashed and rehashed several times already. It's absolutely NOTHING new at all. The industry has been this way for decades. He knew it when he started, and he's known it all along. To pretend it's something "secret" is nothing but pure sensationalism. He's certainly got his clickbait worth out of it though".

That Z19 is a nice little boat. I looked at one several years ago and decided to stay in Skeeters. Been in ZX200's since 2002. Happy. Nito quality did not look as good as some the bigger names, but more than adequate since it doesn't sound like you are going to use it hard. Take a look at the accessories. BPS (assuming you are buying from BPS) usually puts cheap, crappy TM's and electronics on their pre-rigged boats. Need to factor that cost in your decision making if you anticipate needing good units.

You have two choices: Walk away and say nothing except "No Thanks" when he asks you go. Walk away, confront him gently, and tell him why.

I'd buy a BPS Crankin' Stick. 7'-0 Medium. I use various Crankin Sticks for almost all my movement baits. Very good rod for $80. Probably $100 now. As good a rod as ones selling for for twice as much or more. You can always hide them in the rod locker at weigh in.

Biggest thing I can recommend is to learn to fish with either hand. My right hand is my master hand, but I can do 90% of my fishing with either hand. I'll be 77 in three weeks and still go 9 hour tournaments with minimal discomfort. Pills, straps, etc. all help, but I haven't had to use in several years, except after throwing an A-Rig all day.

Boat cleat, trolling motor.

The correct answer depends on you and your use of the tool, because that's what a reel is. Do you fish enough to justify a $200 or more reel? Can you afford one? Do you just like nice stuff, regardless of the cost? If not, there are plenty of very usable reels for about half that price, or even less.

WIGuide is pretty well on for a minimum price. It's going to be $150 plus/minus per hour plus parts at MSRP or better. If you'll drive it to KC and buy the beer and BBQ, my buddies and I will help you rig it. We've done 3 so far this year. Seriously, if you are at all good with your hands and have a couple tools, it's not that difficult.

I don't know how old you are, or what you have tried to date. I'm 76 and have a right shoulder that hurts all the time. Went to my doctor. X-rays and MRI. No torn rotator cuff, just arthritis. She recommended physical therapy. Went to a fantastic PT guy. The first day and the day after were agony. He beat the snot out of me. Gave me an exercise regimen to follow. I did it religiously. Hurt, but I did all the exercises he wanted plus more. I couldn't raise my right arm above horizontal before PT. In two days, I was reaching over my head to apply deodorant. Don't seem like much, but a major accomplishment. I've been doing this six weeks now. The improvement is a miracle. Still some pain, but nothing I can't deal with. I'm retired and fish almost every day. Today was my 8th day in a row. I'll start back on tournaments this month. I expect to out fish guys half my age. Long narrative, but the point is to avoid the surgery if at all possible. If you have it, the PT afterward will be long and painful from my conversations with other people. Tough out the PT instead if you can. I do 4 routines a day. 2 - rotation, 2 - strength. They hurt, but better than the knife. GOOD LUCK !!

I see the San Disk 32G Ultra for $7.45 on Amazon.

The files, unless you are updating HB Base Maps, are really small. I'd bet a 4GB would work. Go to WM, buy a card. Use it for nothing else. I've got a 32 SanDisk from Amazon that I've used for years. Never formatted it or anything else. Just copied the files and went to work. I've got 1 - Helix 12, 3 - Helix 10, and 2 - Helix 7 on my various boats. Use the same card for all of them. Never had an issue.

They seem to be good jigs but I like the Boss jigs.. I buy two colors of jig heads in 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4. a few 3/8 swim jig heads. and change skirts as needed. Skirts are lot cheaper than jigs and I can carry every color I might ever need or want, plus a skirt making kit and tabs to make my own. Same with spinner and buzz baits. The Boss Gary Klein Heavy Cover Jig is the best heavy cover jig I've seen.

It can be done with proper skills and tools. I've done it on old transducers, but not these new ones with 9 - 14 conductors plus shielding. Whether or not you should kind of depends on you wallet. You didn't specify a unit, but SI transducers cost $200 - $400. If you don't have the money and can solder and heat shrink, may have to try. I wouldn't, but I have $400 for a new one. Watch the Amazon Warehouse for transducer buys. I've picked up a couple there.

I find a little 6 - 8 inch mill wretched file from Menards works as well as anything. You all know the word after "mill".

Vision 110 knock off. $10 cheaper. I like them. Swap out a hook or two and they'll suspend.

Minn Kota adding another year warranty for dealer installation doesn't make sense unless it's just a chip to help their dealer sell service. I've never seen anything like that before. Caution advised. It's an easy DIY project if you can reach under the deck. At least $50 worth of gas hauling your boat to dealer and back plus your time. I'm guessing $300 charge. Not worth it if you're handy with tools. If good access, I could do it in under 2 hours, but I've done 4 of them.

We used them on the Coosa River 50 years ago. Fished them just like that new thing they call a Ned rig.

One other thing from a non kayaker: Remember you are hard to see. Don't make the mistake of thinking everyone in a power boat can see and avoid you. Don't start on me about ;the rights of kayakers and other paddlers. I'm fully aware. Kayaks are hard to see. Use some common judgement. Remember, regardless of who is at legal fault, in a kayak/power boat collision, the kayaker will always lose.

My real world guess is something to do with patents. Bottom Line (Computrol) had a rudimentary scanning type sonar in the early 2000's. I had it on a boat I bought in 2002. It worked, but extremely crude. If I remember correctly, Johnson Outdoors (HB, Minn Kota, and others) bought Computrol and, I would assume, those basic patents. I think about 2005 plus/minus. I'm just guessing now, but I would imagine those patents started to expire and work began in earnest on scanning type units. I'm still quessing again, but I would expect this is why HB came out so early with side imaging.

You my man, T-Billy! I thought I was the only one around that hadn't drank the fluorocarbon Kool-Aid. Full disclosure - I drank it, but spit it out. 100% braid for me. Big Game leaders 6 - 25 lb. test as, and when needed. 4 ft. - 15 ft. as needed. If I go to Table Rock or Bull Shoals, I might consider long FC leaders, but not in western Missouri.

The coolest feature of Invisx, or any FC for that matter is that it costs at least 5 times as much as Big Game and doesn't catch anymore fish unless you're fishing in extremely clear water. I drank the FC Kool Aid when first came out many years ago. Careful study indicated to me that I was wasting my money. Our average water clarity here in western Missouri is a couple feet. Four feet is pretty darn clear. Green Big Game at about $15/mile depending on test works for me.

I'd buy 2 - BPS Crankin Sticks when they go on sale for $69.99. As good of a crank bait rod as is out there. Heck, I would buy them now at $79.99. Or just buy one and spend the rest of the money on lures. Seriously, that Crankin Stick is a excellent CB rod. Maybe a little heavier than rods that cost twice as much, but I never notice. I think I have 5 now. I use them for almost all movement baits - Cranks, chatter baits, spinner baits, swim jigs, etc.

Here's my $0.02. For $100, you get a $100 real. Pick any of the name brands and buy it. Buy the one that feels the best, looks the best, matches your boat, or whatever criteria you want to use. You should get a perfectly serviceable reel that will serve your needs. It won't be a $200 reel regardless of the brand. If you can spend more, you'll get a nicer reel, regardless of the brand. IMHO, right now, the best values are the $120 reels (last years $100 reels). I've bought several Revo X's last year. No problems. Couple of the $100 Lew's. No problem. Couple BPS Carbonlite's. No problem. I do squander a little money on my flipping reels. I set the hook quite hard so I use the Lew's Super Duty's. I believe they handle abuse very well. Use sound judgement. Buy what works for you. If you don't fish a lot, a very lot, $120 reels will serve you well.

An real accurate answer would require us to know what kind of 20HP motor you are planning on using. The old 20HP 2 strokes (I am familiar with Mercury) ran good. I'd expect 15 MPH with no problem. If you are looking at 4 stroke, they won't even get out their own way. We have some 25 HP lakes here in the KC area. I have a Lowe 1648 that I put front and rear decks in. Two batteries, 80 Lb Ultrex, and half a tackle store, by myself, I GPS at 26.2. 28.3 is my absolute empty, winter time best. That is with a 1985 2 stroke 25 Merc. We have some criminals here also that do the sticker change. Cheaters is what they are. I don't recommend. We have guys with 17' Trackers or equivalent with 25 4 stroke. With two guys and a decent load, they will barely, or nearly, get on plane.