iabass8

KaRu's been around a long time. Nate makes fantastic bladed jigs. Buy /w confidence.

The fury (and savvy) have a slower action than the champ 703. The 703 will work just fine for walking baits/whopper plopper 90s(not enough rod for the 130), buzz baits, squarebills and lipless cranks. No idea about mid cranks but I imagine it will suffice in the 6-8 range. Paul Mueller uses or used the savvy 733 for squarebills on some elite series event. I use the savvy 733 over the champ 705 CB for ripping traps. I would have no issues using it for squarebills.

Correct. However, what you need to understand that not all 3/4/5 power rods are identical through a series and the differene between the 734 and 744 "jig" rod within in the champ series isn't just 1 inch. The champ 744 is "more rod" than the traditonal 734. It's a different rod all together even being the same power. IE. The 735 is a great frog rod. The 795 is one of the finest punch rods and probably their most popular punch rod they make. Both are 5 powers. the 795 can punch a 2oz weight+bait. The 735 is over powered /w a 1 1/4oz weight + bait. The DX702 fishes completely different than the 742. I suppose it's possible. They do sell cheaper mislabeled rods on their website. It is a mass produced 100$ rod. I'm sure there's some goof ups out there. You could have a blunder of a rod. My champ 735 and savvy 735 aren't that different action wise. I can't tell a difference action wise between the savvy and fury 735. Stiff to you is normal to others. You'd probably throw a roman made on DS rod if you could.

I don't know how one can say the 735 is too much rod 3/8oz jig but it's fine throwing frogs. A 3/8oz jig after you add the hook + trailer is closer to 1/2oz which is the same weight as your average frog.....You're pitching a jig /w this rod. I'm going to assume(maybe a bad idea) you're throwing it into cover. I've used the 735 for years. It pitches, casts, skips 3/8oz anything easily and well. As for 1/8oz-1/4oz trigs, get a 3 power.

It will be perfect for 3/8oz - 3/4oz jigs.

704

.....I think you need to see somebody about this fingernail of yours. Lots and LOTS of people's complaints about hardbaits are hooks...Lucky Craft hooks are almost never part of that discussion.

Buying shooter as leader material is a massive waste of money. Just buy sunline leader material. Shooter is a fantastic bottom contact line. Sniper is a better value.

Never had an issue with pointer, old RCs, LVs, or RTOs.

Unless I had been in it before, then no, I wouldn't buy it. You're taking quite the gamble w/o running it. Starting on muffs is quite different than running /w back pressure in the water and at WOT.

No....unless you like the red.

unless you want the red on the type R, the regular CT will perform identically to the type R.

You're asking for a rod that will throw those baits but you don't want it to feel like there's a brick on the end of your line. If your intended purpose of the rod is to throw baits that are on the top end of it's recommended range, it's going to feel like that. Anything at 1oz or less, the Fury 735 will be fine. Throwing swimbaits over 1oz in the 1 1/2oz range on the 735 will be doable, but it won't be ideal. The 735 has a lot of backbone(not a "broomstick" like the 6 power dobyns are) and a fairly XF tip(tips gets a hair faster as you move up in series) which is why it is considered more often than not a fantastic frog rod. (which is what most people use this rod for). you're asking for a weight range that is more often than not thrown on a longer rod. The st croix bass x 7'4 HF would work better than the 735 Fury for 1oz - 1.5oz sanother sitebaits. The rods are both rated up to 1.5oz but St. Croixs are notorious for fishing heavier than their labeled rating. I.e MH fishes closer to a H.

It should have been said that @dam0007likes to fish the lightest possible rod he can get away with and is the only person alive that would consider the 735 a broom stick. He thinks a 1/2oz jig is perfect on a 3 power rod. He's cray cray.

You might be able to call up BRP and see if they will give you one but I've never heard of that actually working. Would be a lot easier/quicker to just buy it for 12.95 from the link i provided. Their manuals are ridiculously in depth /w pics and step by step process' of maintenance/troubleshooting. No idea on the nitro. Gut says no.

No. There isnt a new one.

Obviously a quality battery is better, however, by locally, I'm referring to something that is available in more places than not. He's a traveling tournament angler and many high quality batteries aren't within a 90-120 minute drive of some ramps. Having a battery that is found easily rather than having to add 2-3 hours to a tournament trip is more sensible. If one dies, you can replace it quickly and easily to get you through the tournament and worry about the others later.

Just something to think about, I personally spend top dollar on a cranking battery due to it running everything except the TM. As for TM batteries, get something that you can replace locally. You should always be replacing all of then at once, not one at a time. Having them locally makes things a lot easier.

what year fast strike? I used to have a 1991 175 fast strike. Might still have the .pdf of of 325 page manual. If not, they're 8$ on here and they e-mail you the .pdf. https://www.selffixer.com/outboard.motors/johnson.evinrude/ No idea on boat. Spec sheets are available all over the internet.

Ltb is plenty sensitive but the xtreme /elite scv blank, in my opinion, is noticeably more.

Richard Dobyns. He is the owner, Gary Dobyns, son.

Everything seems to be working as it should. The tilt trim, when in neutral, will drop the voltage, but it will go right back up to 14 when you stop using it. Run it WOT a bit just to make sure the regulator is working.

If it's working correctly, when in neutral, the voltage should read around 14.4. When you put the boat into gear the voltage should drop down to 13.1 give or take, assuming your battery is fully charged, and then the voltage will increase when your rpm's go above I believe the number is 1200 it might be 1500. I could be a little off on the numbers RPM wise but once you put the boat in the gear and increase the RPMs the voltage should go up and it should not exceed 14.4 to 14.6. If it does the voltage regulator could be fried and that's a bad thing. Revving your engine on muffs is also a bad idea you really shouldn't exceed idle RPMs on muffs. Some say not going over 2000 is fine but I would just rather be safe than sorry I don't have the stones

Possible. If you did indeed see smoke coming from the engine after you created the accidental spark, it could be anything (or nothing) if a visual inspection shows. O melting wires/connections/blown fuses at the motor. You've got platinium warranty that includes electrical. Take it in and have them test it. Wont take long.

765 . 735 isnt a good punching rod for over an ounce + bait.0