iabass8

get some 12g AWG wire from Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, etc and extend the wire. Solder and heat shrink the connections. Put the 3a fuse on the positive wire at the battery.

You got it at the price point it should have been at when it was introduced. Sensitivity is what you expect from a 100$ rod. The 766 is easily the most powerful rod dobyns makes. I used to have one before the DX795 and all I used it for was punching. It's every bit of a broom stick as they come. For the weight you listed, you would have been better off /w the 735 or Fury 765. The 765 would handle the 5/16-1oz weights + plastics really well. If you wanted a rod to throw a 1/2oz-2oz weight + plastic into a jungle and yank them out, you found it.

How dare you Amateur!

1 877 470 5397

You will need oil and grease. REM gun oil is fantastic on bearings. Very low viscosity and you can usually find it at Wal Mart. Yellow Rocket Fuel is also a great oil. Grease you don't need to go fancy. Penn reel grease, Super Lube (You can find this at most Ace hardwares and Lowes), Shimano, and Daiwa are all good greases. There's hundreds of tear down and cleaning videos on you tube. Just do some watching.

Yes...there is an NRX 873c. It's been around for a long time. I would recommend the NRX 894. I had that rod before I went custom. Great jig/texas rig rod. Kind of tip heavy but I had mine altered to a full grip and handle made a hair longer. Unless you're fishing the florida junk, it will be fine in pretty much all cover. I would personally go the custom route but if you're dead set on an NRX the 894 would be perfect. I'd say you would be good /w the 895 too but that rod was so annoyingly tip heavy I wouldn't recommend it.

Weird. Ran mine into stumps, rocks, fallen trees and the accidental dock. Never had an issue.

Looking for at least 1 more guys! So far we have: Me Mrs IaBass8 @FordsnFishin @Jrob78 @smallies24/7 @Burtonxj @Mike L @smallies24/7 , Let me know if you haven't got the invite. I resent it a few minutes ago.

This is exactly how my new ranger is set up. Love it. My old one had one like the OP's picture. I never had an issue though.

You won't get DI /w the built in US2 transducer. Only 2d. You will have to use the units supplied transducer to utilize DI at the bow. I have an Ultrex that has a built in transducer too but don't use it as I want DI/mapping/2d up front so I use a separate transducer.

My ultrex is awesome. Spot lock is ridiculously nice to have especially in wind/current. Foot pedal is the most responsive I've used. Turning is effortless /w the foot pedal. Can't say enough good things about it. Worth it's price tag for sure.

Bizz baits craw isn't original. It's a mass produced "702 craw mold" that 900 other companies make. Lots of places sell that mold. Their pour material, injection, and scent is the only thing that varies from others. I had a company years ago pour me a custom 702 color. The claws are actually different from rage craw's flange.

I have boat buckles on my new boat and had some random brand on my previous boat. Awesome addition for launching. Will never go without them. New boat came with them but I put them on my old boat. Took maybe 5 minutes per side. I got my last pair for 45$ . No issues with them or boat buckles.

The 704 isn't a heavy powered rod in any series. It's a MH despite the label. The boo jigs, 3/8jigs and up to 1/4oz trigs you described will fit a 703 fine. Go up to 1/2oz and you will wish you had a 704.

704 is more ideal

Great moving bait rods. Not great bottom contact rods. Champion for your 100$ price is a no brainer.

So your 859 on the front stopped working and you are replacing it /w a helix 9 SI but you're mounting the transducer on the back of the boat? Is there a reason you aren't mounting it on the trolling motor..? You are from Iowa. If your future plans are to move the helix 9 to the console at some point, you should just do that initially and move the 898 to the front and mount that on the trolling motor. Lowrance you just put the unit on standby. Humminbird I think you can only use the stop sonar feature. Not 100% on that. I don't use humminbird.

Unplug one unit and see if the problem stays. Do the same with the other. If the problem isn't there /w just one unit on, switch the front unit to 83 and bow to 200 or vise versa.

2oz is way too much for the 765 in any of the lines. 1 1/4oz + plastic is about as far as I take the 765. The fury line has a swimbait rod that would work better.

You take it to the closest certified mechanic for your outboard. Whichever motor you choose will have a list of all their certified mechanics to work on your boat. If the closest one is 160 miles....you take it 160 miles for work. There's got to be a local marina closer than 160 miles from you. Go on merc or evinrudes website and they will list all their local mechanics. Do some research on local marinas. Find a good one that's close and see if they will work with you on ordering the boat you want.

I can't tell by your post but I hope you aren't hooking up your cranking battery in a 24v series.... Assuming the only thing that is on your TM batteries is your TM (Nothing should ever be on your TM batteries except your TM) and your cranking battery runs your big motor and electronics, it sounds like your cranking battery is shot at first glance but it could be a couple things. Very simple test. Charge your battery to full. Take it off the charger and take a reading at the terminals /w a volt meter. Should be 13.1 or so right off the charger. Let it sit for 12 hours with nothing hooked up to it. Battery should read 12.6-12.7 after rest. If it's lower than that, your battery is dead. Drop the low voltage alarm to 11. Your voltage will drop some when you crank the big motor but it will immediately recover to full after it cranks. If your battery is dropping to 11.9 while your fishing for a couple hours, that's only a battery /w 40% juice. 12.2 is only 60%.

I thought the rod was purchased new a few weeks ago. I didn't realize that you purchased it from somebody else recently. It's a long shot to get a free replacement in that circumstance. You will most likely have to pay the warranty free + shipping. You could luck out though. Gary and Richard are good people. If they do tell you that you have to pay the warranty replacement, make sure you tell them you want the new HP Extreme. Should be the same price.

Buy from a local dealer. They will have more wiggle room than a Cableas and BPS which is some cases will tell you "That's the price.". My new Ranger I purchased a couple months ago I got for 4k less at a local dealer than what Cableas was quoting. Even cut me a deal on an Ultrex, too. you will find a lot of year end sales at dealerships and boat shows of marinas/dealers trying to get rid of last years inventory for a lot less than what you would pay today. Late fall/winter will be a good time for you to buy and save. Another perk from buying from a dealer over a BPS/Cabelas is they will very often put you in the front of the line or same day if anything goes wrong with your new boat. I've needed a couple small things taken care of and when I called my dealer told me to come down and he took care of me in less than an hour when his shop was full.

If you want it for free then it goes without saying they or a certified daiwa repair center will have to do it. They arent going to just take you at your word. Theres a listing of service centers on their website. If you have one locally just have them get it for you. It's not an expensive piece to order yourself. you cam always call brian at the tackle trap and see if their repair guy has one.

You dont need to send anything in for warranty work.... CALL (dont email) daiwa usa, get directed to parts ordering, give them the part number, they will give you the total, you give them your address and a form of payment and it will ship it out. I've done it more times than I can count.