iabass8

Funny you should ask. @Jrob78invited me over to bake cookies yesterday just so he could ask me how much it would cost to buy a local Revo SC, SX and Quantum Smoke. Poor reel choices aside, I told him....

Well, if you think about it, it makes a ton of sense for them to do this. Their Rage Tail line is extremely successful due to their products offering a unique flange that gives off a ton of vibration/motion in the water. The Rage Tail line isn't known as a cold water product line. Before you say "Well Joe caught a pig in 40 degree water on a Rage Craw," I'm sure they work at times but as a whole, these aren't the first line of baits in most anglers mind when water is considered "cold". The boot tail design is becoming more and more popular and with Keitech basically being the cornerstone for soft swim baits, if the Rage Line can duplicate that success, they are only making their Rage Line that much more popular. This looks like it will be more of a "niche" bait much unlike their other baits that can be used in a variety of ways but I still expect this to produce and work very, very well.

Use it to flip lures within its ratings?

The HP is an improved blank on the extreme. The XP on the new champ is not an improved blank. the dx795 is a fantastic heavy cover punching rod. Ive throw up to 1 1/2 oz on it with no issues. No experience with the others.

<3 Looks different than the LC KJ flat. As long as it has a tight wobble it looks like a Winner

@Jrob78 once asked me how much for my used curado b. Do you know what price I gave him? Bout tree fiddy.

If possible, can you post a size comparison of the 6th sense 75 flat against a LC 1.5 or Spro little john? I need a few non balsa flat side cranks and these have been catching my eye.

This is the closest thing I recall in the red eye shad. Has an orange belly stripe and glitter on the body but it's solid chartreuse.

depends on the type of swim jig. hook, cover, etc.

In the fishing world, 100k is a lot of subscribers. In the actual "professional youtuber" world of getting paid to make videos, it's a drop in the bucket and pedestrian at best. You can (I don't agree with it but they found a loophole so whatever) make a ridiculous amount of money making youtube videos but those people have millions upon millions of subscribers and put out videos at a much higher .

Polishing friction points(end of spool shaft, gold sheets under the cast control knob and side plate bearing, etc) can help out to make a smoother retrieve which in turn will make a "handle spin for days". The amount of times a handle does or doesn't spin isn't a direct reflection of a smooth reel. It's just a byproduct of polishing friction points on the internals. HOWEVER, if a reel is older and used like the OP's and the retrieve isn't smooth, like you said, a faulty gear set is almostalways the culprit even if you can't see the damage, it's there. If the reel is already up to par on the buttery feel but the OP just wants to take it a step further, polishing the internals is the next step. Boca's won't smooth out a reel but I agree /w replacing them on a used reel if you are unsure of the condition. I replace every single bearing in older TDZ's that I buy just for peace of mind but that's me.

It will be perfect

Love bagley balsa b1 and b2. Great cranks for wood. I would never use these around rock. Dont slap the bait in the water when clearing weeds/junk and you will be fine.

I don't mind the lisp as he probably can't help it but agree with everything else. I don't think anybody does it as well as Matt and Tim from T.acticalBassin Westbred Diamond and Crappie Killa have some pretty informative videos.

There should be a washer between the white plastic gear and the gear directly above it below the main gear.I can't tell by the picture if it's there or not. At least I think there should be a washer there. Every daiwa Ive worked on had one. Will feel like hardened cardboard kinda.

There's people on here and quite a few on other forums that got them from non classic expos, DSG, Gander MTN, Cabelas, etc a few days ago. Your DSG seems to be the outlier. At least you only have to wait another day.

maybe yours...but others already have them for sale.

It's also a trick worm...could very well have been panfish pulling at the tail. happens more than you think and people blame hooks.

You're late to the party. Some DSG are already letting you purchase them.

Practice, a lot.

No. The 735 is a med/heavy in the "flipping series" even though it's not listed as such. It's pretty confusing. The 735 is an amazing frog rod and also excels at pitching/flipping jigs/trgis into cover. If you're coming from the 762 spinning series and want a little more power in a casting rod, The 703/733 or 704/734 would be ideal. Their 4 powers, though rated as Heavy, are more of a traditional MH. The 3 powers are a M. Being you want to throw 1/4oz and 3/8oz heads /w keitechs in no cover for northern smallmouth, I would go /w a 3 power. Anything more of in cover I would go 4 power.

one of the best workhorse reels made. I still use mine all the time.

This xs 100000. Pick your favorite Jig head/color/hook and learn to fish it. Takes practice. Go slow and then go slower. You can fan the weedguard out if you tink it will help come through wood cover better. Some people do this, some don't. I do it but it's just a confidence thing. My favorite jig for anything non punching is the Dirty Jigs No Jack Flippin jig. You're going to lose jigs. It's inevitable.

My god..... I'm not sure if you're trying to argue just to argue or legitimately asking but I'll answer either way. The bearing pictured in the first post is a generic image of an AR bearing that vendors use. (If you search for Shimano AR bearings, you will find pcitures ranging from blue, white, brown, and clear cages and housing. The one pictured is used by Boca and others.) If you are having an issue /w your instant AR, you can remove the bearing from the reel and disassemble it. By disassembling the bearing (again, I'm not sure if you're just trying to internet argue or asking. I assumed when explaining previously that I was answering somebody /w some knowledge of the the bearing itself) I was referring to removing the rollers to clean them. This is the part of the bearing that can see excessive wear, grit, grim, etc but having to take them out (or the entire bearing itself) is almost never necessary unless you are indeed having AR issues. Depending on the type of AR bearing, you indeed can take them apart (including the cage/housing the hold the rollers in). In case you still don't get it, I have included a picture from a Diawa Luna of an AR bearing completely disassembled that I got from a different forum. If you're going to tell people what they can and cannot do, be correct in doing so.