RevoSEMIpro

Cuz why?

Shad Rap Ball jig and curly tail grub

If I had to pare it down to minimal something like the following; Top waters I could walk (SB105s, Canewalkers, R2S Rover 98 would all work) - bone, something dark, something chrome/flashy 1.5 size squarebills (Rapala, SK, River2Sea would all work) - a shad, a craw, and a bluegill pattern. Mid depth cranks (Spro RK55 or 50 work) - craw and a gill pattern Jerkbaits (Both Rerange 110s & 110Rs) - Perch, Secret Shad, and Threadfin Bladed Jig - 3/8 and 1/2 oz - shad, bluegill, black Rage Toad - green pumpkin/pearl belly on Owner Beast screwlocks Dropshot - 2 colors each Netbait STH Finesse Crush and Keitech Easy Shiner Keitech Swing Impact FAT 3.8s - Pro Blue and Electric Shad 5" Senkos - black and cinnamon blk/purp flake SK Menace - 2 or three colors Brown Pumpkin Copper Tubes - 4" Berkley 7" Power Worms - Black and Green Pumpkin Terminal tackle to rig the above to their potential.

Still waiting on a rod that showed in stock during the Memorial Day sale. Says in stock right now.....apparently TW and I have different ideas about how long you should sit on 'In Stock' items that have been paid for. Its a backup rod, if I *needed* it you can bet I'd have a refund already. As it stands they can take their time and as soon as (if?) I take delivery they can consider that the end of any business they'll be receiving.

Assuming they are even present I start with hard bottom, drop offs, and crawfish imitators and branch out from there.

Check out Gamakatsu G-Box with slit foam, various sizes.

They all have their days... My three confidence baits are definitely squarebills, bladed jig, and flukes in that order. Very little confidence with punching rigs of any kind. Spinnerbaits don't last long for me in Pike country so I rarely throw them now. Deep cranking is pretty niche in these parts, not a lot of confidence there.

Generally buy singles until proven. At that point try to keep 3+/- on hand. If its something REALLY hot I'll buy a dozen or more. I try to stick to 4-5 general color patterns throughout the arsenal unless something calls for a specific odd pattern. I'd rather have 4-5 colors/patterns that I know work where I fish than buy one of everything.

I could do some damage with Shimano rod/reel, River2Sea hardbaits, and Keitech softbaits

$13 Shower Blows and free shipping over $50. Other decent prices scattered about ($10 Whopper Plopper 90s / $9 75's, $10 Spro Little Johns, etc) https://www.sportsmansoutfitters.com/products/evergreen-sb-topwater-plugs?variant=39309631979566

I do believe this current order will be my last with TW. COVID staffing excuse is played out - they can't control backordered items, but they can sure keep their own house in order for in stock items. Seems they are not. Placed a decently sized order, all items in stock except SB 105s. 14 out of 60+ line items shipped. The rest just sitting in limbo apparently? Also not thrilled with the notification about card data being hacked that they sat on for MONTHS before disclosing.

I've got an 2018 model year 1875 that I've been happy with. The new layout with center rod storage and pedestal seating/open **** pit is far superior to the OG floor plan IMO. Kinda bummed when I saw the new ones (until I priced them out). In a 1775 you'll still have the bench seat but would benefit from the center rod storage in newer models. All that said, I'm looking at moving my 1875 and replacing with a Champion 198 so what do I know...

Thanks for the replies, pretty much reaffirmed what I was thinking - unfortunately. I've done as much detective work as I'm gonna do - I bought a new boat to avoid chasing gremlins. Surely wont be pulling deck up or contorting to trace plumbing issues or filling with water to play leak detective. Thats not to say the advice isn't appreciated, if I bought used it would be a different story. Will be on the phone with the dealer in the morning to see how they and/or Lund are going to handle it.

Thanks, thats the way I'm leaning....yay. As far as the drain plug beginning to dry rot - it was not screwed in, hanging by the cable tether when I picked up the boat. I suspect it was left out for the duration of time it was with the dealer so the UV took its toll.

Recently purchased a new (2018) Lund Renegade 1875. I've been having water in the bilge after each time out, sometimes enough that the auto bilge will pump for about 30 to a minute seconds while on the water. More than a few cups, less than a few gallons. This is the first tin bass hull I've owned, never had water in the bilge in my previous boats (Alumacraft Backtroller 16 and Lund Proguide 1875) which are obviously different hull styles. Is some level of water in the bilge just the nature of the beast with the reduced transom height? I've tried the following to rule out causes - 1. Backed down the ramp (after dark so as not to hold things up) and let every drop I could get out to drain. Figured this would ensure I'm not seeing last trips water. 2. Replaced the original drain plug that was getting a little dry rotted - no change 3. Cranked the plug in with a pliers to make sure I wasn't being a Sally by hand - no change 4. Plugged the livewell drain hole in the transom as well as the bilge drain - no change 5. Filled the livewell while fishing and used the recirc. - no more, no less than before 6. Tried to keep an eye on water coming over the transom while coming down off plane, haven't witness any 7. Haven't had it out in rough water yet so I'm not taking anything over the transom or gunwale while fishing 8. Its garage kept so wouldn't be rain water or anything from storage So I'm down to thinking its "normal" for the hull type, I've got an aerator leak on the intake side of things, or its intruding through the hull somewhere not noticeable. What does our collective experience tell us?

Joking aside - whats the skinny on the Vanford vs. the Stradic Ci4+? They seem to spec out about the same and have the same pricing. I'm in the market for a pair of 2500 size spinning reels and maybe a 1000 to replace some Saros 2500s that are getting relegated to walleye duty. Is the Vanford meant to replace the Stradic or am I missing the point? The bargain hunter in me needs to know if I should hold out for Stradic clearance or just pull the trigger. Obviously Vanfords aren't available quite yet (that I can see). Thanks

No Renegade guys huh?

Looking at purchasing a Renegade (1875), have found a few currently on a dealer floor within 150 miles but none local. Not impressed with the local Lund dealer - doesn't seem real motivated to answer questions and provided what I consider a go away quote on bringing one in, to the tune of $4K more than I've got prices from anywhere else (similarly equipped). My questions are multiple, predicated on boat being equipped with a 115 horse outboard (Merc ProXS): 1. I know they are equipped with the No Feedback cable steering, I'm not seeing a hydraulic option anywhere on the Lund site. Local dealer didn't know, didn't care. Does Lund offer hydraulic as a factory option? If not, and you have hydraulic, what system did you go with (Baystar, Seastar, Ulink)? Do you feel it was worth the $$? 2. Those that went No Feedback - do you wish it had hydraulic? 3. What did you go with for a trolling motor? Do you feel over/under powered? I'm leaning towards an 80lb Fortrex at the moment. 4. Any options you consider a must have that you did or did not spring for? Justification? 5. Whats the biggest disappointment you have with the boat? What is the thing you feel puts it above boats in the same class? All other comments and experience welcome. Thanks in advance.

Zoom Trick Worm - usually weightless Keitech Fats Swing Impact - weighless, swimbait hook, trailers Reaction Innovations Sweet Beavers - jig or t-rig Rage Craw or Menace- trailer, t-rig, rage rigged GYMC Senkos- wacky Zman Hula Sticks or Leechz - ned (spoiler alert - walleyes like them almost as much as the smallmouth do)

Lew's Tournament Pro

Casting Reels - Lews and Abu Spinning Reels - Pflueger or Shimano Rods - Powell, Fenwick, Okuma (Helios/TCS), Duckett, G.Loomis

I found them to be largely a waste of time unless targeting Northern or Muskies as well. And if you're on of the guys that get bent out of shape about hooking into the toothy ones then definitely forget it.

Local shop has Okuma Helios micro guides for sale at $129, picked up 2 and they are worth every penny

http://www.***.com/Strikezone_Pocket_Knocker_3pk/descpage-SZPPK.html Fits in your pocket, I bought the three pack a few years ago and I'm still on the original. Never failed to get me out of trouble.

Strike King Coffee tubes, Venom, Zoom Salty tubes