BassnChris

HAVE to get off the water BEFORE the storm arrives if possible. I have read and heard that lightning can strike MILES out in front of the storm. I take 0 chances with lightning......especially with my wife and son on the water with me. Glad they are gonna be ok.

Finally put a roof over my boat......so my truck can live in the garage. Still want to put a sun shade/screen over the front of it.

Congrats. Guess we will get a peek at the road trip, eh?

Not for me.......there's stuff out there that will eat you!

Muley pronounced 'moo-lee' I like it.

Good luck. Hope you make it.

Slick.......looks great. Congrats......have fun!

Anybody else signing up for the road trip this year?

Are Garmin NMEA cable interchangable with Lowrance NMEA cables?

For my application I will have these connectors used: HDS Touch unit #1 has power supply connector, transducer connector, ethernet connector (to 2nd Touch Unit), nmea connection. HDS Touch unit #2 has power supply connector, transducer connector, ethernet connector (to 1st Touch Unit), nmea connection. NMEA will have the power connection off a Tee, terminated at both ends, and tee off to Touch units. I think I got it guys...............Thanks.

I am going to install an nmea network in my boat. Currently I have 2 Lowrance HDS 2 Touch units powered seperately and connected using an ethernet cable. My Motorguide xi5 trolling motor has an nmea connector that will connect it to the Lowrance units (function available in the next month or two) I know that NMEA networks are powered. My question is: Do my Lowrance units still need their power source if I connect them to the NMEA network? Do I connect BOTH the NMEA powered network AND the Lowrance units individual power connectors or just one or the other? Thanks Chris

I would use clear silicone and paint the screws close to carpet color and put them back in.........but I would try to cover replace the old FF base with the new one preferably.

Sorry to hear that........I always winterize because that's what I'm afraid of. Were you using the boat in cold weather or was this just a result of water in the lower unit oil?

Beckie and I will be there.

Thank you everyone for the input...................I really appreciate it. After thinkin' on it.......I am gonna try tbone's way.............dual bilge pump Y with built in check valves.

Turns out.....these guys hit a stump under the water that they didn't see.......you never know when something bad is gonna happen. Wear the kill switch lanyard attached to your person folks.

I got my carpet from pontoon stuff. Quick ship.......quality product. I'll order from them again when I need what they sell.

Glass hull.

That's about all I can think of.

binding retractable ratcheting

My previous post pic is one of the binding type......there are also some that ratchet but are not retractable. Here is a pic of the retractable type......they roll up automatically.

I'm not an expert.................but I would think that this is only a good option if you know/trust the repair shop.........and knew the work was done.

my tie downs are 'bent' over the lower transom edge too..............but they do not work loose..................not even on an 8+ hour road trip. Sounds almost like things are sliding forward on the trailer. Are they retracable type or a binding type tie down..................if binding type then I would suspect they are slipping in the buckle. Binding kinda like these:

I am going to add an automatic bilge pump and I will be cutting a hole for the bilge drain through the hull . Then I can use my existing bilge pump as a back up. I chose to add another bilge drain instead of teeing into the existing drain because I have read that you will need check valves in place to make sure water did not drain into the unused pump and back into the boat. Anyone have any tips or warnings ? Other than cut the hole well above the water line! Thanks

Blasphemy! Blasphemy I say!