scaleface

The Missouri conservation Dept stocks ponds with bass , channel cats and bluegill , so yes .

I'll comply .

No . We are referring to pegging the weight next to the bait with a toothpick , bobber stop...so that it does not slide freely on the line .

I went through a pegging period for a whole year . Thought it was an improvement . I got a lot fewer bites .

I thought about snipping the weed guard and some how adding a barb , maybe just by bending it . Then slide on a soft plastic and burying the hook like a Texas rig .

Harry and Charlie used Scuppernong Jelly Worms . Manns actually started making a Scuppernong Jelly Worm . I have a 100 pack .

After several post on the same topic , I have come to the conclusion that Missouri bass just taste better than every where else .

I have several . Rapalas , Cut Co , and a Browning . The Browning is my favorite and cost 15 dollars at Bass Pro about five years ago . I sharpen them myself .

I like to T rig them and use parasite clips to keep the tube in place .

I rarely peg . I seem to get more bites when i dont . There is one lake that I fish that has a lot of cedar trees in it and I peg there . It just comes through them better .

I love the Dalton Special and dont have one . I've been watching for one to show up . If anybody has one and would like to trade, we can work something out .

Those are good lures to use on the mississippi river in the current . Dikes , rip rap banks, current H&H spinners are made for each other .

I watched a Bill Dance show and he was demonstrating a ph meter . It did not make an impression on me back then .I thought it was a gimmick .

Keep the lure in the strike zone as long as possible . If you guys are casting perpendicular too the bank , the baits might actually be in a productive area a small percentage of the retrieve . Get the boat closer to bank , cast parallel and the lure might be in the productive zone the entire cast . Thats the biggest mistake guys new to boat fishing make .

I liked to camp on spots [ point , hump , channel...] with the potential to catch a limit . If it pays off I do well if not , I didnt . I had a hard time catching a nice stringer running the bank and usually avoided doing so .

beats me . You should be able to feel them .I troll with a similar setup and can feel the lures with half a spool of line out .

I use single blades most of the time . I could fish a single size 4 willow leaf everywhere at every depth , in my opinion there is nothing more versatile .

If theres a lot of little islands there should be a lot of little humps . I'd have plenty of crankbaits and soft plastics .

I converted my dad from a catfish eater to a bass eater . LOL

Whatever is in my box .

There can only be one winner . Just keep at it. To me there are three ways to win . 1 is luck . 2 is pattern fishing . 3 is structure fishing Finding fish on structure has been my most successful way . Finding a pattern on structure and you're an instant contender .

They are easy to read . You have to learn what good structure is first . Start out by looking for extended points . Great structure and easy to identify .

Thats the way I always done it . learned with the old fiberglass Lews Speed sticks . If its windy , keep tyhe tip closer to the water not allowing as much bow in your line , use a heavier weight and run the line through the fingers . Lift and drop , weigh the line , if the line feels heavy , set the hook .

Yes . I have caught some big , springtime bass swimming a Bomber Long A Minnow as fast as I can reel .

They flat out catch fish . In my opinion a short shank hook gives the lure a lot more action, the whole lure will vibrate similar to a lipless crankbait . I use crappie jigs and carefully open the gap thus shortening the length , but I am severely weakening the hook in doing so . DOA makes short shank jig heads but I have never seen any at the stores . I'll have to order some . I'm referring to the three inch lure bodies .