FordsnFishin

Do you have a pedestal seat? It can make using your trolling motor much easier. Learn to use the wind in your advantage not against you.

Did some playing around today. Got the batteries moved back to the back hatch and all rewired. Located a 25p fury prop from a guy and got it installed. Right off the bat I noticed it took longer to get on plane, no big deal. However, I was only seeing 56 mph, @ 5000 rpm WOT. Fished for a bit, put on trailer, and lowered pad height from 4.5 to 5.5 inches, which is what it originally was. This allowed me to hit 58, @ 5200rpm wot. So perhaps this thing was already propped out and my 22p is going to be the best route. Im about to swap the props back around. Than when I go back out I'll make sure I'm still in my old range. Maybe play with prop height more to make sure it's dialed in. @WRB @Way2slow, as always guys, you are very helpful and I appreciate all the help and knowledge. Btw, I was able to get on some fish today, and i did my good deed for the day, had to tow a guy clear across the lake. His 2 week old mercury quit on him.

Just made this to store my go to rods I take off the boat after every outing. For the other 30 rods or so I have when this one is full go into racks I build on the wall and ceiling.

I use a blinker trim. Trimmed nearly all the way down, accelerate until what I consider the boat being on pad, (nose drops back down), than I accelerate further while trimming up until I reach my desired speed. From driving the boat I've found what I've thought to be the correct trim for certain speeds. Which is typically that sweet spot where it's easy to steer, and maintains my speed easily. I don't feel that I'm over trimming, but maybe I am. Just going from my the feel of the boat and my own personal data. One factor I should mention, last year I redid the boat and moved my 2 31 series batteries to the very front, which were sitting clear in the back originally. With the boat set up this way, I saw 64 mph. If I had a long stretch of water I could hit 66mph. The process of drying the styrofoam sounds like a nightmare. I think I'd be better off sinking the boat and collecting insurance at that point. Hahaha

@WRB no I have not unfortunately weighed the boat. Will be a process with the lake being 40 minutes one way from the nearest scale that I know of. To be honest im not sure about the rooster tail as I haven't paid attention to that. I just dropped the height an inch just curious to see what it will do. You mention water in the flotation foam. Say there is, what would one do about that? Is there a way to dry it out and keep it dry. Seems it would be impossible. The bottom pad does not appear to be cupped. Im about to buy a compression gauge so I can see what I'm getting on all 6 cylinders. If I recall should be around 120 lbs each? With a +/- 5%?

So last night I adjusted the prop to pad height back to 3 1/2 from 5 3/4. Took on water today. Oddly enough this did not change the rpms it ran at, however I lost 5mph in the process.

Is the 3 1/2" a standard for all boats?

@Way2slow @WRB Appreciate the replies guys. Agreed, I felt for this motor I should be doing better, this is why im starting to research it. I took measurements, might not be exact but I believe they're close. Jack plate- 10" Prop diameter- 14.5" Prop height- 5 1/2" This motor was swapped onto the boat, and the previous owner wasn't a big fisherman, just a weekend warrior, wherever he could make it. So to say if this prop was really ever fit for the boat is hard to say. The motor, too me at least, seems to run strong and doesn't skip a beat. I guess I would need to have the compression checked to really know if it has a power loss. I have actually been talking to other charger guys, and they're basically saying exactly the same as you. Everyone is suggesting a 24-25 pitch prop is needed for this combo. A guy who has fit several brand new from factory says that a 26 and even 27 is not out of question. With those he has seen 75-77mph. Everyone else thinks ohhhhh should be seeing low to mid 70's. So im hoping someone in one of my clubs have a prop I can throw on and test it to see what I can get and maybe help narrow in on what prop I need. Way 2slow, you say that a higher pitch could actually have reverse effects? How is that possible? Not doubting you, just in trying to learn all this and understand. Ideally wouldn't the lowest of the recommended rpm range be best (5500), most fuel efficient, and easier on the motor? So with the 22p running on the high end, is it not obvious that going to a higher pitch it would make it run easier and faster while also being more efficient? Sorry for the long post, but appreciate your thoughts.

1996 tf 495 with an 2009 mercury 250 pro xs. Prop is 22p mercury tempest plus. WOT, I run 60mph @ 5900 rpms. My engine manual says full throttle range is 5500-6000 with rev limiter @ 6250 rpm. Seems it's right in the guide lines, was trying to determine if I should change props for more top end. That's full tank of gas, me and all my gear. Thanks

The lucky craft pointer and rapala x rap are my 2 go to jerkbaits.

Bump that line up to 12lb minimum

Make sure you protect the circuit with a fuse or you could burn your boat down. Use heat shrink to prevent corrosion. I typically use heat shrink butt connectors you crimp on for your connections. Solder is also a great option. You probably already have a main circuit pulled where your control board is and probably can tap into it instead of going straight to the battery.

I think you'd be hard pressed to find a club no nobody puts money in. One of my clubs is more of that feel however. Only $25a tournament. For the guys who want to bet more we have an additional side pot that is given to the winner of that group as well.

@Way2slow You got it, they place the lower drain screw by the exhaust port. Have to remove the prop in order to drain it. The picture probably looks confusing, but I have a drain pan there. The little circle you see with the oil is actually the hole the oil goes into of the portable container. As far as the color of quik silver, if you look at my above photo, you'll see a dark blue oil in the inside of the puddle. Surrounded by my questionable lighter blue oil. The dark blue is what it looks like coming out of the bottle.

So did I mess up? Got a decent day out today. 42 out right now, high of 60 so I decided to crack the lower unit and going to let it drip all day. Upon first opening up the lower unit im not liking the color of it. This pale blue oil has settled at the bottom, more it drains the darker it's getting. Is this water that has gotten in or the oil breaking down? Dummy move I didn't replace the screw bushings last year, already got new ones ready to put on this year.

This is Buster. He enjoys truck rides, and boat rides. I take him out hunting too. When he's not chasing squirrels, rabbits, or neighbors cats, he can be found sleeping under my feet or in his mommas lap.

Honestly the only smart move here would be for you to buy both of them, see which you like better, than obviously send me the other one.

Anybody that wanted the academy 25% off all rods, I won't be using my code so whomever is welcome to it. Believe it is a one time use. Sale ends 3/1. Online code; FSNYPJ

Do all in one sitting as you're new. Always have a schematic. Don't have original than you can get online. I typically print one off if I don't have it. Lay everything out in order as you take it apart. I like to totally tear down the reel first, then clean one part at a time. Just let's be keep everything in order and do I don't forget to do something.

We don't recieve vacation time. But if I can make money im usually there. If we're on a long job, and it's that perfect day usually I just tell the boss that the work will still be here tomorrow!

Engine is a 2009 mercury pro xs 250 horse. For the past two seasons I've used quicksilver premium gear lube 80w-90. I just went to grab a bottle out of the cupboard to look at changing it today, but somehow I've never noticed in little black letters on the bottle it reads: 'For use in all outboard lower units and get pumps BELOW 75 hp'. Any chance the lower unit has been damaged by this oil? What oil are you guys running in bigger engines? Thanks

Obviously for skipping a shorter rod will typically make it easier on you. Depending on what size jigs you'll be throwing for power. I throw a lot 5/16-3/8oz jigs, an typically that's skipping under docks, over hanging trees, and in tree lay downs. I thoroughly enjoy using my dobyns champion extreme 704c. Fast tip, heavy back bone, very sensitive.

735 glass for jigs??? I use a 704 for my lighter 1/4-3/8 oz jigs, anything over I use a 735. It still handles 3/8 great. Dobyns run on the light side of their powers, have a softer tip and great backbone in my experience.

This

I've heard good things on PP customer service. A guy in my club last year forgot they were up while going under a bridge. Busted them to hell. Next week parts were delivered to his door free of charge.