Gaerith

This is the best thread I've read in a long while. Please keep them coming; these stories are immensely entertaining and educational.

Do you mean weightless flukes/senkos? If so, I would focus on a punching rig, as I prefer to throw weightless on spinning, but that's just me.

Would like to know everyone else's opinion on this as well.

EZ lure retriever kit if you don't have one.

You can do a 3 power, but once you add the trailer to the 1/2 oz jig you get close (maybe even to) to the rods max lure weight. A 4 power will load better in that case. Rod power isn't just about the fish size, it's about the lure size one intends to throw too.

I second the Fenwick, but suggest a Symetre over the Sahara. X ship is worth the few extra bucks.

I'm aware of the amount of heat and general stress guns are under when being fired. . I am not saying the tech is there right now, but it will be possible. Probably within 10 years. Semi autos have already been made that work. Just the way 3d printing can print things structurally has increased the 'strength' of plastic. They did a test on 3d printed dashboards for cars using plastic and they were both lighter and stronger/safer than traditional manufacturing methods (hope I'm remembering that right). Polymers will improve with time - just look at materials like carbon fiber. Honestly, I wish full auto and burst fire guns didn't exist, but they do. That was my main point: whether they are banned or not you will be able to get ahold of one in the future. Stolen, bought, printed - access to guns will most likely become easier.

I do not enjoy the thought of easy access to fully automatic weapons. However, with 3d printing technology it's an inevitability. Someone will make a 3d printed fully auto gun, even if printers have DRM to block the printing of guns. Someone will crack it, just because they can. So, I think that gentleman's argument is rather null. Politicians probably will try to restrict your gun owning rights. They'll probably get a lot of it wrong. Regardless, guns are going to get into the hands of the wrong people. Will you having an AR protect you better? In most situations I don't feel so, but if the bad guys are going to have access to them then I can't argue with your right to have them.

This is just my opinion, but I would go: #1 30lb braid (hi vis), #2 12 mono or fluoro, #3 10lb braid or 8lb copoly. My reasoning is that those #'s work well for each application and if you want to keep expanding your arsenal, you will have yourself setup to do so. I think 40# is kind of overkill unless you fish enough heavy cover to warrant it. It's a good compromise between 30 and 65 if you aim to use the one rod for bottom contact AND frogs, but the 4th rod I'd get after those 3 is a heavy with 65# braid, so it's kind of s moot point.

Wait for the curado G to go on clearance and pick one up. Also keep an eye out for if the chronarch goes on clearance too, and if they both do then go for the chronarch. If you have to have one asap, I would suggest a tatula or lews.

Looks like you could use a baitcasting crankbait rod. I would grab a 7' MHM first, then trade out one of your MH rods for a heavy - Dobyns 736 or equivalent would fit the bill for flip/pitch/frog. I don't have any experience with the spinning rods you listed, but for the BC rods I would keep the 7' crucial on deck at all times. Use one of the spinning for finesse, plus the 2 I suggested above and you have 2 more rods to work with stil. Maybe the MM Falcon for jerkbaits and the other crucial for spinners.

I feel like it's a non-issue really. If you are concerned, you can always tie on a longer leader. Also I think the benefits outweigh the 'risk'. I have the low-vis green on my spinning rod and it drives me crazy because I lose sight of it constantly and makes it impossible to line watch unless you sharpie the line or something. If you're doing something like jigging where bites are harder to detect I think its worth it.

Dick's already had a sale on the Curado G's for $98 recently, so I wouldn't be surprised to see them clearance for that amount or lower (everywhere) when they get discontinued. I'm curious to see what the Chronarch's go for if they get discontinued. If the Chronarch's end up going for $100, I think it will make for a tough decision whether to get a clearanced Chronarch or the new Curado.

For spinning I wouldn't buy anything below Symetre, because I want x-ship. BC's I tend to not buy below the $100 price point regardless of brand, because I want something I know will work well. My first *nice* reel was a Shimano and after trying a few other brands I find myself coming back to Shimano. One big reason is that they feel so...polished and well made. Then again, I have 0 complaints with the other reels I own, so I probably just have a soft spot for 'em. Another big reason is that I don't like where the monopoly that is Pure Fishing is going. I would rather give my money to their competitors to keep things...competitive.

You want to use braid in that situation, 30#+ if using a bc. It will add some sensitivity and cuts through grass. I guess I would go with 30# if there is no other structure for the fish to wrap themselves around.

I mainly catch them on a jerkbait, such as a smithwick rogue. Spinners, both normal and inline, work well too. Anything that mimics a minnow is great. One thing that Northerns like to do is slam into their prey and stun them, then swoop back in and eat em. This is why I use and suggest treble baits. They will sometimes hook themselves on the outside of their mouth/gill when they do that. Otherwise, if they do just bite it they hook themselves. I have had them pick up my jig trailer and tear it up, same with the skirt on spinners.

705cb glass Avid MHM 7' Anything cheaper and it probably won't be an upgrade to the veritas.

Mine came right after Christmas. Just got the spring one today.

I would go with a PQ or a curado on clearance just in case baitcasters turn out to be not your thing.

If they charge more than 200 they are encroaching into the ci4+ market. Why would they step on their own foot? I have a feeling they might discontinue the chronarch and put this curado in that price point, or they will keep it at 160, which makes no sense if it does fish better than a chronarch. 200 is an important price point, they need to have a competitive reel there....what else is going to fill that role? Also, the curado name has been their 'work horse' reel. If they charge any more it move out of the average enthusiast's price range.

About the sale at gander mountain - often times their in store sales and online sales are different. I had a chat with one of their sales people and he told me they often do that to get rid of stuff they have too much stock of, and they will usually honor it in-store (but it has to be the exact model). From what I've seen Dicks works the same way. Its confusing and makes me not want to shop there, but if you're vigilant and willing to ask to check on prices you can find really good deals.

How does Alley 1oz weights compare to Siebert's 1oz punching rigs?

Wait for the new curado and 13 reel to come out, then decide. Lots of hype about those two, and if either live up to it it'll be worth waiting for IMO.

I would get a cranking rod first, if it were me. Many people consider Abu rods as rather stout iirc, so I would think it would cover jigs and stuff for the time being. Put braid on the Veritas, and you could use it for jigs, frogs, spinners; Triumph for stuff under 1/2oz; and the light rod for drop shotting maybe? Then grab a MHM for trebles. My only concern is if you are going to fish the Veritas in heavy cover, going above said route. I have never used a 2 piece rod, and don't know how that would affect trying to pull a fish out of the slop.

The reason for the # size difference is due to people trying to pair similar line diameters, generally. I don't think it makes a difference, but I know for me it's just the peace of mind knowing everything is about the same size.