Fish Murderer 71

lets see if this worked remember this is just my opinion, others may view it differently based on their experience...

My fishing partner does this little hop thing whenever he casts, I'm just waiting for him to hop out the boat one day. I've tried to time a trolling motor burst to help him. No effect yet...

enough to pay for the 3 day BIG BASS SPLASH at Sam Rayburn.

If I throw just the worm in the sink, Charlie's worm and the super finesse are the only ones to float back up to the top, the roboworms tail never touches the bottom, the havoc stand strait up while on the hook. Guess I should have tested shaky head worms with out the hook to see if they were high floating or not. Some of my zooms floated on the hook(solid colors did, most with glitter didn't, which was surprising to me.) As for the KVD'S, heavy salt infusion will sink. Try the Strike King Super finesse (BASS PRO HAS EM). If you want a tail to guaranty to float, get a hypodermic needle, tube of super glue, put a tiny drop of glue on the needle away from the sharp edge, run the needle to the glue drop into the tail push in the plunger about 1cc. pull the needle out and squeeze the hole for about ten seconds for the glue to seal the hole.

one of the best things I've seen in cold weather is the Chatter Bait, retrieve just fast enough to feel the vibration. hammer the area repetitively, sooner or later you'll tick something off and get a reaction strike.

ZOOM original trick worms float, BERKLEY HAVOC "Bottom Hoppers" float, STRIKE KING Super Finesse float, (and these are my personal favorite). ROBOWORM float (even with all the salt they put in them) CHARLIES WORMS fineness float.... and thats about all of them I use. I find that I have more d**n worms than I can ever use in a season. I know this cause I just finished going through the bag of everything and sorted and put them all in order 3 hours later, I finally finished.

YOU DO KNOW THAT YOUR TROLLING MOTOR CAN SUPPORT MOST BODY WEIGHTS TO ASSIST GETTING BACK IN THE BOAT??? IF YOU DONT WANT TO USE THE TOLLING MOTOR, THE CAVITATION PLATE ON YOU MOTOR IS A GOOD STEP UP...

electronics belong in/on the boat, not on the line... just my humble opinion!

I buy em for my kids, so they can have a full tackle box, when I've tried all my lures and still haven't caught a fish I might try their tackle, but as for cheap tackle, I choose not to use it as a primary go-to...

to bad its not on a football head....

I retie after every fish, retie after a hang up or snag in brush, retie, retie, retie... I can retie a loop knot in less than twenty seconds, how long do look for your pliers and have to squeeze? Now I will have to admit that sometimes I just get in to big of a hurry and dont tie the knot just right and then watch a 5-15 dollar lure fly away and spend the next ten minutes chasing after it....but I still believe that a knot serves a LOT better than those clips, but thats just my opinion...

Most of the time, I'll drop shot into brush in deep water (30-50ft) so I use 40# braid with 25# flouro leader... as for shallow, flouro unless into heavy brush then solid braid. So, it just depends on conditions...

12- 14 mono on a skeet reese cranking rod... revo stx 6.4. catch a big fish, cut the end and retie or lose the next big fish. dont try to jerk set the hooks, you'll lose more than you land... reel set the hook... reel up the slack and simply lift the rod tip to 12 oclock and then back to the water to keep the bass from jumping. consistency in reeling and drag are the key to landing lunkers. reel to fast and when it gets to the boat it will spit the lure out at you. reel to slow and you may get the slack that loses the fish. being able to adjust the drag while a fish is on the line it a must learn skill. A tired fish is easier to get in the boat than a fish with a lot of fight left in it. and remember, WE ALL HAVE LOST LOTS OF BIG FISH AT THE BOAT WITH CRANKBAITS!

TREE MAGNET! And if there's only two rocks next to each other in the entire lake, I'm going to get hung up and lose my t-rig in them!

The only LMB I eat are the ones that I let swallow a bait and I know that the fish wont survive the hook extraction. I call it the "plate of shame". I only had one last year, and it was GOOD!!!!!

I don't look at the ratio as "speed", I view it as "how much work do I want to do". Look at it as pulling up a bucket from a well, how long will you last cranking it up? I'll pull a 10 lbs bass in on any ratio... the real question becomes after 8 hours of slinging baits and retrieving and finally get that lunker hooked up. How much do I have left in my arm and wrist before I fumble and lose that lunker? This it's what I focus on when deciding which ratio to use.

Just Texas this year. I fish the state parks in Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Louisiana. Arkansas is the only state that I will buy a 7 day license for trout.

I'm usually surprised and only get irritated when money is on the line. Other than that I have a great time with any fish on.

It could be, could be a weed floating, dense cloud of silt, may even be a cold spot of water. I dont even use the fish id unless I know the spot and then usually I forgot to turn it on.

I got 2 pennies... 1, buy what you can afford. 2. revo stx and Wright and Mcgill, (about 300 bucks a set up)... The rest is pure skill mixed with a little luck!

I have a Ten Point Wicked Ridge Warrior , Only spent 550 after case and bolts and broadheads. I have a limited distance of 30 yard long shots, My CB shoots 318 fps at 85flbs. The Toxic broad head slices through a hog like butter. You can spend more and upgrade, but why? all crossbows have a limited range of effectiveness usually 60 yards or less. If money aint a issue spend freely, If your like me and every penny counts then check this site out. Wicked Ridge . Just my lil ole 2 pennies worth...

shakey with a football jig.

x2

Usually thinking I'm in the wrong place...

My target is the big fish, the dinks are collateral damage.