Fishingmickey

X2 with Catt's suggestion. Old school straight shank round bend worm hook. 3/0 or 4/0 Gamakatsu for the 5-7" worm and 5/0-7/0 for 9" worms and up. The majority of the hook-ups with a round bend straight shank are usually through the roof of the mouth. I also use the EWG hooks when Texas rigging too. I do prefer the standard EWG over the superline for weightless plastic fishing (fluke, swimbait or Senko). I'd almost betcha you'll get the next one to hand! Fishingmickey

If you've got a locomotive or semi-tractor trailer air horn in your truck. I've got nothing for ya. FM

x2

I run the Garmin Echomap 93SV UHD. I'm very pleased with how it performs. I suspect the striker series would probably be the same. FM

bout time he started fishing like me. FM

The Heddon Dying Flutter has a special place for me. I still think that five bass limit I put together that foggy April morning 30 years ago is still my biggest limit ever. FM

I am very pleased with the performance and ease of use of my Shimano Bantam's and Metanium's (2020 model). The new frame design of the Bantam's and now the 20 Met's make for a super solid feeling reel that works great no matter what bait I am throwing on them. I've got a couple of Diawa Coastal SV's that are pretty nice too. I just don't have the time on the water with them yet. FM

Chapstick works too... FM

I've been very pleased with the performance of the Samurai too. FM

Koz, Just to add some more ingredients to the soup. I really like the ram mounts for both my transducer/s ( I have live scope on my kayak). Does you kayak have T-bolt tracks up towards the front? If so using a 1" ram ball with a T-bolt and the Ram transducer mount really works well for me. I switched out the two bolt 1" ball with the track mounted ball. So when I am traveling I can flip up the transducer and set it inside of the hull/cockpit. I don't tighten it down hard so if I hit something wood, reeds, weeds, bottom, etc. It will swing up instead of bending the arm or damaging the transducer. I have my fish finder mounted on the opposite side using a double ball 1.5" Ram mount. One ball in mounted on my "H" rail (would work for track mount also. The other ball is on the bottom of the fish finder mount. I like having the transducer mounted forward so I can see my lure if I am fishing vertical. My fish finder mount is similar to this pic. I disconnect the cables and remove the fish finder when it's not in use. Hope that gives you some ideas! Fishingmickey

Shimano Bantam on a 7' Kistler Helium 3 MH/F.

Yes to the kayak electronics! It's pretty much a must for me now. If I was fishing shallow rivers and small lakes maybe not so much. But tournament fishing for bass it is a very helpful tool. I really like the Garmin Echomap 93SV series. 73 series would probably be fine too. Sonar, sidescan, downscan and maps. I often troll when moving from area to area and knowing whats passing under me as I am moving helps me find new promising areas to fish. FM

After reading through the thread. I've noticed that no one has mentioned tightening the spindle (castellated) nut. When I do the bearings on my trailer/s. I just tighten the nut up enough to get friction, no play in the wheel when you push/pull it and it is tight. Then I back off the nut like a 1/8th to 3/16th of a turn and line up for the slot for the cotter pin. I've been running on running on the same set of bearings for years and a lot of miles. Good luck, Skunk. Fishingmickey p.s. Good seals, clean grease, and buddy bearings should last you years of trouble free towing.

Dobyns makes a fine rod. I've got two Kaden's. Both are baitcasters, so no help there. I also agree with Northernbasser. The Zodias rods are sweet too, and for not much more bucks. Really either way is good.. Lots of good rods to choose from in the 175-200$ range. FM

Welcome aboard Jake, another Bass tournament kayak fisher here. FM

I've found nothing squirrely about my Bantams. I used them with 12", 15# and 17" fluoro. I use them for everything, bottom contact, Cranking and reaction baits (spinner and chatter). FM

I just unboxed my Diawa Alphas SV 800H and two jerkbaits (Megabass and Steez). Ordered Friday and received Tuesday morning. Free shipping... pretty dang good IMHO. BTHO of my last TW order 2nd day air. FM

Good fluorocarbon isn't cheap. Seguar Invisx or Tatsu (Tatsu is expensive), Sunline Sniper or Shooter. Daiwa Samurai is good too and also expensive. Depending on the water you fish 12#-!6# should work nicely on your baitcasters. Spinning reels do not like fluorocarbon at all in the higher pound tests (in my opinion). I haven't used the lighter pound tests on spinning reels yet. I can see using them especially for Ned, Neko and weightless senko rigged wacky or t-rigged. The Daiwa Samurai and Tatsu have smaller diameters for the same test rating as others. They are also the most expensive and the best (again in my opinion). Fluorocarbon line hates to be kinked and will break unexpectedly where it has been kinked. I do not use the palomar knot on fluorocarbon. My knot of choice is the improved clinch knot. I cinch it down slowly and carefully. I will probably get some some disagreement about this. It's just my opinion based off of fishing experience and it is what works for me. Fishingmickey

I just know that they love to throw spinner baits and cranks baits back to me on a regular basis. You know it is coming when you can feel the head shakes and your line is zigzagging as it is coming up to the surface. Also makes you wonder why all the pro's are saying on video as they are fighting a fish... don't jump, don't jump over and over. Fishingmickey

Nope the Curado 70 has been around for several years or at least my Curado 70 has been. I believe mine is the "I" model not the newer "K". I pretty sure it has X-ship. Now you've got me wondering. FM P.S. This is the one I have. Your correct Brett's Daddy.

The Curado 70 MGL is a fine reel. I fished one for several years. It does well with whatever I tie on the end of the line. I haven't fished any of the SLX line of reels. FM

The Shimano Seinna 2500 size and a Berkley lighting/shock rod I think makes a good quality combo for not much bucks. FM p.s. That Pflueger President is a excellent spinning reel for not much either.

I kinda of prefer the 7:1ish ratios reels for both. T-rigged you want a fast retrieve after your out of the strike zone and spinner baits for me I like a 7:1. I like the 1/2 double willow spinner baits. It's fast enough to burn the spinner bait just under the surface and it has enough torque not to wear you out. It's slow enough so if you want to "slow roll" deeper you can. FM

Welcome aboard! Perhaps be fishing the same body of water one of these days. Fishingmickey

Hi Guns, It is likely that the cable is gunked up or rusted internally or the motor pivot bearings are sticky. You should be able to remove the steering cable at the motor fairly easily with hand tools and disconnect it. Then try turning the motor by hand with it disconnected and try turning the steering wheel with it disconnected also. That should reveal where your "stickyness" is. If it is in the cable probably best to replace it. If it is in the motor pivot bearings, greasing the zerk/s on the pivot shaft and exercise could very well free it up. Good luck, Fishmickey