MickD

Unless you have objective measurements of power and action, all this talk is mostly conjecture based on flawed descriptions. CCS numbers give actual, objective , power and action numbers. ERN is what is used for power, Effective Rod Number. It's sort of like the line weight numbers for fly rods. I have a rod which was described by one of the most popular blank makers in the US, marketed by a legendary rod designer, that is called "medium" power , and its ERN is less than 15. I have a rod which is described by another highly respected blank maker, who by the way gives CCS numbers, described as "medium light" power, and its ERN is 20. I have another rod described by one of the most respected rod companies in the US as "medium" power, and its ERN is 16.9. IMHO the less than 15 is a little underpowered for bass, the 16.9 is just fine, as is the 20.

Maybe bad choice of words. The cost to repair the engines exceeded what I was willing to pay rather than invest a little more and go new.

Sarcasm alert! The straight answer to your question is yes, cologne, perfume, sunscreen, etc, all are a negative influence on getting bass to strike. Depends on the strength, of course. If you want to encourage bass then no scent. Some contend that for bonefish one should pick some sand from the flat being fished and rub it between his hands. Scent is significant.

What you are getting here is a lot of opinion based on varying experiences, not scientifically proven advice. So here's mine: I don't think there is a significant difference in performance or durability of 87 and 89 octane fuel IF the engine does not knock on 87. So I believe the octane argument is moot since your engine works fine on 87. I also believe that since ethanol is basically and unarguably a negative for fuel lines AND the engines themselves (I have had two devices totaled by ethanol according to the shop) I use and recommend ethanol-free fuel whenever it's available. I would keep using the additives since they have been successful for so long even with ethanol fuel. There is no down side except cost to 89 octane ethanol-free fuel.

Nope, all mentioned have them. If buying NFC blanks to build into rods be aware that many of them, unless you get the "mirror finish" option, have ridges that some builders, especially new ones, find troublesome when wrapping the guides. Amtak and RS are smooth.

Columbia Craw has it right. I'll add a few more ideas that might help. CCS is an objective rod/blank rating system that is easy to set up so that both power and action can be measured. https://common-cents.info/ Additionally, one can easily with an Android device measure the natural frequency of the blank/rod. The higher the number the faster the recovery from deflection, and the crisper/cleaner the rod will feel. Higher mod rod/blanks usually but not always (depends on the design details) have higher natural frequencies. I can send a .pdf file that tells how to do it for those interested. Even within a manufacturer's line of product the objective numbers may not correlate to the subjective descriptions. For example, a medium power rod sold as a drop shot rod will often have much less power than one sold as a jigging rod. CCS is the best measure. Some blank makers publish CCS numbers, but it is not common. There is a good data base on line for blanks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1r3zv1ygtuUjPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=1592691333 An enterprising man named Kevin Fiant has compiled it from data from manufacturers and builders. Thank you again, Kevin. We hear a lot about how important action is in "keeping fish pinned," but one should consider that the longer the rod the less important action is to this consideration. A 7 1/2 foot extra fast action is a lot like a 6 1/2 foot moderate/fast action on a 1 foot butt extension. Finally, for the same power, the faster the action, the softer the tip (softer = lower stiffness) . The confusion in evaluating feel between the combinations the OP'er mentions is due to the fact that the subjective descriptions vary all over the place and cannot be trusted to be even close to consistent. Two "mod fast" rods may be quite different in action; two medium power rods may be quite different in power. The only way to compare apples to apples is to objectively measure the rods for CCS numbers. Then add TNF (True Natural Frequency) for an added objective measure of performance.

American Tackle Bushidos and Rainshadow Revelations. Both series are very good at reasonable prices, and you have to spend a lot more to get better. I was assuming you were talking about bass blanks, cast and spin. If you could provide more info on exactly what you are planning we might be able to get more specific.

One thing I've found is that the baby menace tails do not reliable wiggle like the regular one does. The regular menace is very good just slow steady reeling on a light jig, like a ned jig, to allow slow retrieve without sinking too much.

One can never have too many rods. Build it and see. I expect the 22 ERN is not too high for your desired lure weight range, at least the high end as Spoonplugger says.

Ok , try to find the right size ring, try to replace it into a guide frame, you may have to try it many times to get it right. Or. . . measure the OD of the broken ring, buy a guide with that size ring, and wrap it it on. It's not rocket science. But this advocacy of trying to replace only the ring is a rabbit hole.

I have no experience with these things, but evaporative cooling with neckerchiefs and sticking you cap into the cooler ice then wearing it wet have worked forever if the humidity isn't too high. My first impression is that it's an expensive, complicated solution to a problem that has more inexpensive, simpler solutions.

Mine does this when on the mode where the compass heading is trying to be maintained. I will check into the Legacy Setting.

We have noticed this on Lake St Clair, when a cloud covers the sun, fewer bites. For smallies in lakes I always want some wind and lots of sun.

Try a Rage Menace in watermelon/red flake and/or black/blue flake behind a Ned jig and retrieve it slowly/steadily like fishing a grub. Worked recently for me. The light jig allows a slow retrieve without fouling in the weeds.

Unless I'm missing something, the only difference between 16 and 17 casting seats is the diameter of the bore and a little bit of length. With some seats the there are multiple bore sizes, as Brett states. Fuji ECSM is that way as is the ACSM, which I prefer. 3/8 inch is 9.52 mm, so with a butt diameter of 3/8, considering taper, best fit is probably the 9.5 as Brett stated. If too tight one can easily ream it out a little. I see no reason to even consider a 17 seat for bfs. I like the Fujis that can be ordered by bore size as they don't require an added piece to deal with . https://anglersresource.net/product_categories/casting-reel-seats/

Whether it's a hair jig, a marabou jig, a Ned rig, a wacky worm, or whatever else you want to fish, the important thing is to match the power to the weight of the lure if you plan to cast it. Then the action you prefer. Most like what's called fast but that varies with the manufacturer. This belief that we need all kinds of different rods for different techniques is highly exaggerated. Most rods will do a number of techniques well if the power is matched to the weight of the lure being cast.

For learning to cast a baitcaster, IMO, the slower actions, like moderate, and mono linie of about 15 pound test are the most forgiving. My teenaged granddaughter picked up very fast using a Daiwa Fuego reel. I've never owned a DC reel, but from the posts here, one gives up distance with them, which I'd rather not do.

One problem with storing with hooks inside them is that the salty lure will in time rust the hooks. Just last week I lost a nice smallie to a broken/corroded hook. From now on I'm going with the rigging technique that uses a screw head jig with the hook cut off + a small treble "stinger" attached with mono to the eye of the jig and imbedded in the back of the lure. Might not work for the smaller ones, but for the 3.8 it works fine and gets more reliable hookups. And in storage, if there is any damage it's to the imbedded hook of the treble leaving two more solid for hookups.

The old Johnson/Evinrude external diaphragm pumps were prone to failure. Mine failed and scored the cylinder walls, needed to replace the short block. If I had one still running today, I would not trust it but would mix my oil and fuel.

I doubt very much if an engine that seizes due to lack of oil will run right after seizing. I had a 50 HP Johnson which had their diaphragm oiling pump, and the pump failed, the engine scored the cylinder walls and would not idle well after that. I caution anyone with an old Johnson/Evinrude with the diaphragm pump to mix oil and don't trust that oiling mechanism. Diaphragm pumps are notoriously unreliable. I'm not familiar with other oiling systems.

For most fishing there is very little advantage to FC and one very big and expensive to fix problem: manageability. Ask yourself whether the advantages are worth the expense and hassle. I answered that question years ago and have only mono and braid on all my reels, using FC only for leaders.

I've had contact with game wardens in both Canada and US and as the OP'er says, if you're not doing anything wrong, no problem. The MI game wardens were out checking duck hunters and they came across me fishing alone for bass, so they checked me out. I had two nice smallies in the live well and ask if they would take a pic of me with them, and they pleasantly did. Then I released the fish. I have a lot of respect for the game wardens, who like all law enforcement people, have a job that can sometimes turn very wrong very fast. When checking hunters, ALL of their contacts will be with armed people.

Point Blank has CCS numbers published on all their blanks, so be sure to check them out to get a good idea of the power and action of their blanks.

Look at Pflueger Supremes and Daiwa Fuego LT's. I have both and they are nice, smooth, serviceable reels. And very light.

Canada license is easy to purchase on line, do a search for Ontario non resident fishing license.