cfalco

I have one rope, that is a ski rope, in the back of the truck. If I am alone I hook it to the boat and the trailer, back in the boat, get out and tie it up to the dock while I park my truck. Inside the boat I have two light nylon ropes, 5 foot each, that I have rolled up next to my seat for when I dock the boat somewhere. I have a loop tied at the end of those that fit the anchors on my boat perfectly so it only takes me a second or so to tie up. I use the rope that floats so I can see it when I pull the trailer out so I dont worry about it sinking and getting caught on one of the rails on the trailer.

Follow the tube up and see where it goes, looks to me it is some type of overflow for the carb, maybe it was leaking and the person put that so it would not pool in the engine area.

A good smart charger is the best investment you can get for your batteries. Get one form Bass Pro, they have three year warranties and if you keep your receipt they will give you a brand new one when yours go bad and it will go bad. The last time I exchanged mine they no longer made the model so I got the new model for free.

I keep, and always have kept, my batteries either on a smart charger in the boat or in my shop hooked up to a smart charger. Before smart chargers I had a 1 amp trickle charger on a timer to run 30 minutes a day. If you dont stir the batteries all winter you are going to be buying batteries every year. If you take them out and put them in a shop or garage dont let them sit on the cement you will kill them that way also, Put them on top of a bench or at least a piece of 2x4

It can happen, my cousin dumped hers in Florida. She dialed 911 when it happened and the coast guard showed up a few seconds later with pylons and told her he was about to close the ramp. Had she been there five minutes later the ramp would have been closed. She has gotten her boat ready in the parking lot, backed it down the ramp, got out and it just creeped down and under. She did not chase it and I dont think you should chase them.

Change the Impeller, it is cheap and two guys can do it with two sockets and a screwdriver. Why risk it.

So many out there it would depend on your boat etc but one thing I will say without a doubt. Buy the one that does the most or is the most you can afford. Nothing worse than a great boat, all the fishing tackle you need and a crummy trolling motor.. You just can not enjoy yourself by trying to bargain hunt a trolling motor.

You can take the sensors off the top of the tank or tanks and replace them, they are cheap, this might help but bottom line is fill your tank every time you go fishing. That is what most people do, those tanks dont get stirred enough to be accurate. Also you can put Chevron Gas, with Techtron, in. After the few tanks that stuff will clean up every sensor you have in your engine system. That gas is the only gas I use period in any of my boats or toys in general. Good gas for stuff that sits around more than it is used.

you did not post a pic but i googled some photos. I run a lot of boats in and out of here and I have mine that I will never sell of course and it always seems that this one takes on water, that one takes on water etc. Sometimes it drives me nuts. I will use my personal boat of ten years as an example. Every time I go out, after about an hour, the auto bilge will come on in the transom area. The transom is tough, bullet proof no rot. I have a few things running through there but sealed perfectly. I got a hold of some of Flex Seal and lined the Transom with it (spray can) I have not seen a drop all year. Now one thing I notice about your post, you are dragging the boat in and out of your truck, if you know where the crack or slit is spray the flex seal inside, lay a cut piece of rubber over it, let it dry for two days and then coat the **** out of it. The stuff really works. If you want the patch to look perfect tape it up nice before

Yes it will work, as far as some chargers hurting batteries I am guessing that if one leaves it on all the time it will at some point damage the battery. That does not look like a smart charger (which would stop charging when the bat is charged) so be careful about how many hours or days you let it sit on there. Years ago when I charged that way I would put it on when I went to bed at night and take it off when I left so it sat overnight.

If you buy a new trolling motor SPEND MONEY the one I had for 10 years went out last year and I went and spent about 600 on a new one and I hate the thing. It has cable steering and I just hate it. Spend the money get a good one so you can enjoy fishing. As to batteries getting a three bank smart charger is the move. You leave them plugged in year round and it seems to get a good three seasons out of the batteries.

I dont know, my bass boat is like that. I had little chips and cuts on the bottom edge. I noticed them when I was installing a underwater light right above the drain hole. I just did not like the way it looked so I taped it all up, filled the spots I did not like with fiberglass, sanded it all real nice and then I used flex seal that you see on TV. It looks great, but it looks like this and there is no damage to the transom at all. They are easy to test, you can use a small hammer and a rag, so as not to scratch up the other persons boat but I would not let the paint scare you away, also look inside, if it has been repaired it can be spotted easy.

Pic would help but in the mean time follow the leak up, as oil drains down, I had on an one and it turned out to be the oil reserve tank. You could not see the leak, no crack nothing but replaced it and it stopped.

I have cameras on the boats, I use Foscam, you can get them on Amazon for about 70 bucks and then I pay 4 bucks a month for the cloud storage. You get push messages when you have them set to motion. I am lucky enough to have an very large yard so I move the boats around so the grass does not die under them. The cameras are easy to adjust when you move stuff around. Anything of value, tackle, rods, electronics I store in the house so if they steal the boat I get the insurance money I guess. Make sure you insure it for as much as they will allow. Dont tell them what you paid, jack it up a bit get as much coverage as you can. If someone were to steal one of my boats now for what I paid for them I would be a lot of money and I would be ticked. Anyway, cameras work for me, Day, night I can check on them from anywhere and when armed they do a good job of alerting you. Good luck,

Well if you are sure the bottom is not full of crap, algie, dirt whatever and you are sure you engine is tilted all the way down when you are trying to go then drop your prop pitch 2 degrees and try it. You can look up the engine on this site for the suggested pitch and rpm https://turningpointpropellers.com/ then compare it to the pitch you have on there now. Even if the pistons are wearing dropping the pitch a couple of degrees will get any boat on a plane faster. You lose a little top end by doing that but you get right out of the hole. I bought a boat once on a good deal and had the same problem. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he stepped right up and told me he had taken off his stainless steel prop right before he put it up for sale and he had an "old one" laying around. Stainless can cost up to three times more so he did not want it to go at the price I gave him. Propellers are a big deal, you have to have the right one to get out of the water and you dont want your pitch too high because you can get up to a high speed and blow up the motor so stick as close to the suggested pitch and size that the manufacture recommends . As to buying a prop from the above link be careful, they are great props but most times you have to buy a new hub and also a new trim tab. They sit back an extra inch and most motors have to have the other upgrade parts for them to work so you wind up spending twice as much. But at least that site will get you in the ball park on size and pitch. If it says you need a 17 pitch and you go outside and you have a 22 that is your problem. If you engine is getting weaker, compression wise you wont kill it by going down a couple of points. Good luck, have fun, catch big fish and throw them back. Oh and once you know what you need go to amazon they are the cheapest My bet is he took off the stainless you most likely have a too small and wrong pitch on there

Vin or bleach let it soak, take he bin out, fill them up and let sit for the day that should do it. But d**n Man, feed and water your mice better than that.

It's mentioned in this service bulletin/ recall they put out but I don't have the time to read the entire reason this morning. http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/Merc_Product_Bulletins/Official Recall Notification U.S. Federal Boat Safety Act - Throttle Bulletin No. 2006-14.pdf

Kind of a tough question to answer the way it is asked but i think I know what you are saying. First off, the truck, if you ground your light tester with the ag clip to the truck (I always use the trailer hitch) and test the plug one thing at a time, turn signals, brakes etc, I can not see how there will be a false neg. If the light works on all those choices when testing your plug on the truck is fine. Now to the trailer, every light I have it grounded to the trailer, every one of them. Anytime I have bought new lights it comes with a very short wire (black) hanging out the back and I ground it to the mount. When you hook up your trailer to the truck (plug and hitch) the trailer ball grounds the circuit . Its that simple.

Not sure what you mean by list to the right but either way. First off guide rails are huge, put them on, works great on a windy day, or just in general. Good carpet on the main rails is important also. As to the depth of the trailer back your boat up slow and stop every foot or so, when you see the boat float look at your fenders and remember where you are and that is the place you want to put it each time. As soon as you see it wiggle that is your spot. Now this changes with each lake but if you use one lake or river each time it will be right there for you. No reason why you cant drive that boat up each time, every time. If I am with someone I hit the bumper, raise the engine and go, you should be the same. Once you find your spot you will be golden. good luck

I buy boats, restore and them resell them. I use a local guy here when they are bad and he wet sands them. Now I dont do it because I have never had luck with paint at all so I use a guy. They come out perfect every time he does one for me. I am not telling you to do this yourself, I do not, but I have watched him over and over and it works great.

Texas has a law about how far back from the bow they go, I am sure your state has a law just google your state and boat registration number placement it will come right up. Mine are too close to the bow, I have been told that by the wardens but they dont write me up, at least they have not yet. I am older, no booze in the boat they want the young kids with beer. lol They just pull up look around the boat tell me that and drive on.

The biggest one you can find and since it's the only way you got to move you better get a second one as a backup, and a paddle.

3/4, buy the best stuff they got at lowes or hd, I think my last boat was 42 dollars a sheet. I always get the best 3/4 they got and make sure you seal it with fiberglass when you are done before you carpet it. Will last long after the carpet is gone.

I got all mine, for all three boats, on Amazon did not pay more than 40 bucks for any of them and my boats are much larger so you should be around 30 bucks. Just type boat cover and choose

Simple test light will tell you in a minute. Also these can be bought cheap on amazon by putting in "marine dash lights" in the search bar. All sorts of colors to choose from I replaced mine last year with blue ones. The boat is blue makes it look cool at night. Very simple test and very simple fix.