JustJames

That what I told my wife, I only catch fish on new gears, the reason I keep buying new stuffs. She didn’t buy into it though lol.

D-Shad for me as well, sink faster than fluke can fish really slow like Senko or as fast as Zoom super fluke. Weight also help for casting and skipping. Super Fluke is second choice.

I guess old day with tiny spinning reel for UL fishing might have change. no doubt this guy is phenomenal in trout fishing both BFS and even spinning. He was using Stella 2000 and vanquish 2000 so I guess 500 is only for US persons indeed. I guess Japan market have gone to different would than us.

Weaker knot would be weakest link in your system no matter what you do, set hook, playing the fish, pull from weed etc. I don’t go for compromise, if you don’t need leader don’t use it, I rather use 12-15lb FC instead of braid+leader. If you need leader then tie the strongest knot you can both connection and terminal. You don’t want heart broken when the big fish brake off just because you want to weaker your system yourself.

Robo worm usually get good result around city park pond here in SoCal 6” fat would be a good start. 4” senko is also one of my favorite I can cover water faster. I start to experience with Pro-Senko this year for even thinner profile and faster fall rate than Roboworm which is pretty success but doesn’t last as long as Roboworm.

Doesn’t seem like you know a lot about BFS but you wanna start off with high end. Hey it is your money, why not, right? I make it easy for you, @roadwarriorgot top of the cream for sale right now in our flea market, Shimano Calcutta Conquest BFS. If you don’t have the rod then buy the whole combo. In the BFS world if you want the top doesn’t matter low profile or round reel without any modification, there is only one “Conquest BFS by Shimano” add link to make it even easier for ya.

I will respectfully disagree with you on this case, and you know you still my good friend, right? The old day UL spinning reel VS full size spinning reel were totally different in weight and size and mostly they were compare 500 VS 2500. With super light weight UL rod the reel to have good balance should be as light as possible. Nowadays 1000 reel considered as UL spinning and the difference between 1000 VS 2500 are not very much at all especially with carbon composite frame like Vanford, Tatula Ballistic. My Shimano 750 graphite frame is about the same weight as 2500 Vanford. His Zodias 2-7G is really nothing I would call Totally UL. This is Speedstyle UL 1/64-3/16 with C2500

Most my spinning reel is 5.2 gear ratio. For me 30 IPT is enough for my regular fishing. Most of my baitcasters with HG rating are about the same IPT. Once you decide the speed, you might as well buy spare spool (shallow version) from Japan for using with different line type or fishing type.(cost around 1/3 of the whole reel).

There used to be a guy said to bend that V-clip out a little once Daiwa old style brake dial start to slip to make it tighter. You might be able to do that but don’t quote me, never done it myself. Or you can try to compare the gap or swap with alphas to see if it help. I think that might me identical part.

0.6PE is about what 6-10lb braid line, you are gonna need a lot of backing for standard spool of 2500. No shallow spool version that you can order from around or even 2000 size? I look at Shimano Euro and they do have all models?

On your only 4 models Vanford 1000 would match UL fishing better but 2500 size is not really a lot bigger nor heavier but will be more versatile both line size and line capacity. I see the perch in your area get pretty big 1-2kg by average? I think 2500 would be better suit. Now about gear ration, I’m not sure how you fish but the 2500 HG (6.3) version got about 35 IPT while 2500 (5.2) got about 29-30 IPT. I prefer slower gear ratio for UL and small swimbait type. It is easier to speed up than slow down for me. My Vanford is C2000S. I had to order from Japan becuz here in US doesn’t have this version. My reason is bigger spool than 1000 but same frame for line management, slower gear ration 5.2 and shallower spool since I don’t need line capacity fishing with 4-8lb braid line.

Can’t really help you with that. I also palm the reel when cast as well but it only happen when I fish small swimbait. I now don’t see it change anymore and if I remember correctly it never happened with Alphas SV TW. I might change the way I hold the rod since I fish both right and left hand reel but only cast with my right. I don’t thing you can change the tension on dial. It is like old Daiwa dial held with V groove clip #11.

No round reel doesn’t really have any advantage whatsoever compare to low profile especially with BFS fishing. But why? PASSION. There are a lot love in classic look of round reel. There a BFS guy in Japan can fish with old Abu with push button release (not thumb bar) for trout very effectively and fluently. He loves fishing and he love his gears. Why ppl still collect and drive in antique car?

I like that “tip up technique” explain better how I fish in such a short word. I’m gonna steal that words from now on lol. Longer rod alway tip heavy? It might be true but there are a lot longer rod out there that balance very well and not heavy at all. Original Tatula 7’1” MH/XF. 2020 Zodiac 7’2” M/F, there are not high end rod at all.

And if you wanna kill them but afraid to eat them, freeze them and send my way lol.

It is really depends on techniques if one fish a lot for just reel in (swimbait type) or just dragging jig weight might not effect much but if one fish a lot like shakey head, Neko rig or any techniques that require a lot of popping, shaking twisting, light weight setup might help prolong from uncomfortable. Me I fish a lot finesse and a lot of shaking popping Neko Rig or even Fat Ika so weight is very important, the lighter the better. Just like @ATAi just started playing golf and my wrist, arm shoulder get a lot of beating. I cant even fish longer than a few hours and the more un comfortable, I found myself changing the way, holding the rod, jerking popping the lure, the more I change the less bite detection I got.

That why I say you rely on DC (digital control) technology to do the job while mechanical braking system you more rely on your thumb or your skill. New hobby, don’t worry I love to live on the edge, my core and SLX only 1 brake on, My alphas and Zillion dial at 4-6 depends on wind situations. Human is not a robot that can do the same exact swing multiple times. There are also many factors come to play, wind, wet fingers or mind slip. At least I except it as operator error not just blaming the equipment. I think your expectation is too high.

That why you rely more on your thumb not just technology. For god sake, you backlash once every 15 or once after 100 cast and you complain. I backlash on the time and I have 30+ years experience, learning casting reel with no brake setup for modified Abu 6500c3 and Newell 225. Just today i backlash at least 10-15 time using Shimano after been using Daiwa SV for awhile.

I saw a promotional video of this lure and the way the guy handle it jiggling just like one of those 3X 10x strike king lure or Elaztech without grain of salt??? I think this might also be a good Ned Rig bait depends on how you fish them and will also help those wanna use Ned Rig with baitcaster or use less weight head. Me I use 1/15oz with half ZinkerZ but 1/20oz with TRD. With less dense weight I can fish them slower and less worry about snagged. I might give it a try, especially different color like black and okeechobee craw. If Ned Senko come with #221 I will definitely stock those for Ned rig and dropshot.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175319438167?hash=item28d1da5357:g:sOYAAOSwww1iqX-3 but to tell you the truth, I have seen Shimano with Daiwa cork knob. I think one of our member has that reel. It doesn’t really look right to me???

Did I say studio composite for Shimano? ??? https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/phone/product/1652#&gid=1&pid=1

BassZone handle should fit Daiwa knob. https://www.ebay.com/itm/112500862976?hash=item1a3192f000:g:RooAAOSwb5xeRikS&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Ir3GBCrBw8fRy%2ByMhnKJcjcbXY2vGdTGK%2FBuJcEdxJIFIgk1ijMuRYKfnWvP1rFAwkUcaFDopAg5RUw4d5k%2FQj33cjjio%2BiRHsyO0nsCucK6GZMTPUnNor0QtnqIYtGBkCCtmtqQBDiIc7n6JVa%2BJ1l6at%2FqAc38%2Fja%2FKZtPP9fC1DC%2F34x6066c99BGVdrCGL%2FU%2BYUuctXoJcenpnN%2BbylnHgFZtcnnCDlaebt%2Ft0U642td8O1kXdcSCcJwO%2FbSMMLa5OSRU4A%2Fhm%2Bd37Ed9NiZ6bYVuml2sUL3Jg8F0SnXy72GmvOHiKb%2BxFRjLPuxA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwKfltK1g optional would be studio composit handle for Shimano, or cutoff the rivet post and install screw knob post.

After reading all these, I think I’ll stay with golfing even more. Lol

Never mind I saw some sites started listing for 800S

How is your tw80 so far? Just sold one of Curado 70 and going to sell the last one. Thinking should I just get TW 80 before the 800S come out.