JustJames

It is not really struggling but more like no patience enough for , swimbait type, paddle tail, spinnerbait swinm jig underspin, you name it. I can swim 1/33-1/16oz jig for crappie/bluegill all days and catch a bunch, but I just don’t like to fish with it for bass. I would give up after a few cast . I do catch bass with it though but after a bass or two I would change to bottom contact type.

I used to be too picky about how many yards of line to be on spool. Nowadays I just backing enough that I can have half of filler spool on my reel (about 100yds). Yes lower line on spool would effect casting distance and IPT but I mostly fish bottom contact, so IPT and distance is not my main concern and most of my reel are 7.2 gear anyway. I use old chartreuse braid as my backing and I hardly replace those backing so no need to buy cheap line for it(you know us bass anglers always have more stuff than we need. I’m lucky enough to have the reels with line capacity matching my line type. If you have the line too little50-75yds you might have to respool too often after a few snagged. If you have too much line and once the line go below half filled, you will start noticing different mainly distance (old line get coiled under spool another way to complain about line memory no matter how expensive the line is)

You can spend some money on the Rees but I doubt you really call it upgrading. You can swap all bushing with bearing, replace spool bearing with ceramic bearing, replace handle with carbon or longer handle. Ultimately you can get lighter spool like MGL spool or shallow spool if available. All in all you might end up spending as much as the reel cost but gain only 10-20% of smoothness or cast ability. @webertimeis right keeping the reel clean is the best you can do for your reel. I think it is better to upgrade to higher model reel than spending on the original reel. Now if you are a Daiwa guy, they love to customize their reel to be a unique reel. It might have nothing to do with performance just pure cosmetic but they willing to spend a fortune or more than what the reel cost. Crazy, huh? I agree, luckily I’m not completely into that rabbit hole.

White Senko with red hook can makes wonder.

I purchased 2 Curado 70, SLX MGL, 2 bantam MGL and 3 Daiwa all from JDM, never need any parts. If I need parts Plat Japan and June from Japan Tackle would take care that quick. I don’t say it will never happen but most likely not.

Note also for zillion, JDM in made in Japan but USDM made in Thailand. I would have get USDM zillion if it was available at the time I ordered. I like brass gear better for Zillion while my alphas sv tw come with brass gear but I prefer Aluminum.

Yes IM10 is gen 2, gen 1 is IM9. Let me know if you see any of gen 2 CRC-D611MA (casting)

Where? Love the crucial, I have all 3 generations. The IM 10 gen 2 is my favorite, a little bit stiffer than gen 1 but very light weight. Gen 3 green blank is my least favorite but still better than Curado and lighter than Zodias.

How much different for the two? I buy oversea reels only when the one I want is not available here or the price is way cheaper. If price difference is only 10-20 bucks it might not worth going cheaper route but lost warranty. Beside Daiwa now have promotions free hooded t-shirt when buying any Tatula rod-reel.

Humm let me understand this correctly, your problem is spool tension knob too easy to turn and become looser while using? if this is problem, new O-ring #rd 5320 might help. If you have any smaller size oring you could try that as well. I use oRing that come with Fuji hook keeper on my Curado 70.

When you decide to buy overseas reels especially the one that no base sell in US, you’d better prepare for whatever is coming especially getting more expensive parts ship from oversea. Luckily some of the world brand like Daiwa or Shimano, a lot of parts are interchangeable and not many lemons out there. Another reason I don’t buy off brand from oversea like those bfs reels. If you never clean or open up the reel before better stick with USDM reels.

Senko does not always mean wacky rig. I thought we are talking the plastic not technique.

That why all manufacturers require proof of purchase when submitting for warranty, again you can still cheat the system but for how far and how long? At one time I bought Curado 70 from authorized dealer in Thailand, sticker definitely different from US ones. Too bad my wife won’t let me buy anymore reels???. Anyway just convinced a guy ordered a reel from Japan for his very first time lol.

Have you tried Fatika, it will catch as many or even more fish as Senko and can skip pretty well. I actually fish Fatika the way I fish Senko, hummm maybe other way around lol.

Curado 70 used to be my favorite (have 4 and used for every thing from finesse to 1oz topwater and frog).

I use VMC incline 1x hook about 2 size bigger than original hook. I only switch topwater and lipless not jerkbait. Jerkbait would need some modification to suspend/slow float or slow sink after replacing hooks. There are chart for inline single hook replacement available.

By the 2nd-3rd fish my 5” Senko become 4-4.5” if one Senko last me to 3” I would be happy camper. Meaning I trim my Senko all the time, I don’t see why It wouldn’t work in your case. I always trim the thicker part first unless it is too damage then I would alternate to the tail part.

For weightless plastic, I would rather use FC or mono in 8-10lb. Braid is okay for 10-15lb but I lost a lot of sensitivity especially subtle bite. In wind 5-10mph I hardly know what my lure is doing or hitting on any rock timber or fish.

you already got the best answer here. I’d rather have smooth light drag than lock down. You can apply tension with your lite touch of finger on spool when bass start to run. Bass don’t run for too long anyway.

High about 45 degree when fishing calm water, low or parallel to water with finger on the line when windy.

OP might get the Zoom super fluke jr 4” version. If you still have problem casting 5” version, you can try Yamamoto D-Shad or Strike king Caffeine Shad 5” which heavier than Zoom Super Fluke. If you still have a hard time you might have to get weighted hook like VMC drop dead weighted hook 1/16 or 1/32oz 3/0. To me rod is dedicated how the Fluke move not to cast it, too stiff and you pulling the fluke instead of darting left and right, too soft you will not get a good hookset when at distance. I hate using Fluke with spinning, too much twisted on the line and often time I would reel loose line in, create even more problem.

If you are looking for significant improvement from SLX, better spend another 100 more. Can’t find anything better than SLX in this price range, quality, comfortable, casting distance and weight.

I always give friends that new to fishing with Senko weightless 3 or 4/0 ewg hook. It is easier to cast and doesn’t hang up/snagged a lot. It can be move different ways fast, slow, drag or just soak it. Most of the problem I see from newbies is patient, I wish I can include that into a pack of Senko.

This ^^^^^^

I’m not 100% believe in fish attractant but I do have most of the recommendations here, mega strike, pro cure, smelly jelly, jj magic, don’t even look in my crappie tackle box, I have even more, slab sauce, Berkeley nibble, crappie bite etc… For me it is not just about the bites, but to get committed bite. One guy told me about algae that stick on plastic, once fish taste it they would let go the lure faster than you might think.