bassboy1

Down here it was supposedly just starting when the front blew through. Probably slowed it a good bit.

The 48 is the same as a 50 hp just without the VRO. VRO stands for Variable Ration Oiler, and mixed the oil and the fuel in different amounts for the running conditions. Many people disconnect the VRO. Since you don't have it, or people who disconnect it, have to mix the oil and fuel. It was easier to market it as a 48 than a 50. They also had a 28 spl, 88 spl, I think even a 112, but ain't positive on that.

40 - 55 should do. Definitely get a MK with Maximizer. The maximizer will save draw on your batteries unless you are always running flat out max. Most people don't do that anyway.

If the Cabelas one you are talking about is the Briggs and Stratton, don't bother. That thing is a lawnmower engine on a LU. It is so noisy and vibrates. Trust me, you want twin cylinders. Otherwise it will vibrate your arm off. If you are talking about the Nissan, I have no clue. But, best money spent would be to get an old Johnnyrude. They are better than new motors, not only in my opinion, but everyone else who I know that owns one, used to own one, or had borrowed one.

Those holes are to trim it. You need to experiment with all of them to see which is the best compromise for hole shot and speed. Also, dont ever let it rest on the doohicky that is supposed to hold it all the way tilted. Even the OMC manual states that that is for beaching it only. If you need to tilt it to trailer, use a block of wood to hold it up on the ramp, and a transom saver the rest of the time. They are supposed to have the ability to snap loose even when locked down, as it would if you hit something. A steady pressure like running in reverse, will not trip the latch. If you are like most of us, it has long since broken, and you just have to reverse slowly, or hold the motor down. (On my 4. Couldn't do it on the 50)

I beg your pardon!! Why is a shearpin bad? I am basing my reply that Johnnyrude 3s and 4s are the best motors, not only by my personal experience, but from the opinions of many other proud owners. There are 100s of thousands of people who own shearpin propped motors and have never had a problem with them. Also, we are assuming he is not on an unlimited budget. Buying modern technology may not be practical. Plus, the weight is the only bad thing about these old smaller motors. The durability of these things far exceeds that of its modern counterpart. These are bullet proof. Many Johnnyrudes have lasted from the 50s and 60s and show no signs of dying. Our modern motors arent gonna last 55 years, and still show no signs of dying. Try dropping a new one overboard in salt water, leave it for 72 hours, come home, change all grease, oil and spark plugs and then starting it. Rant over. Moral is, a 4, 5 or 6 will be much improved, and you will be satisfied. And, you buy an old Johnnyrude, and take standard maintenance, the motor will possibly outlive ya.

Better yet, there is a little icon above the posting box that is a sheet of paper with a blue arrow pointing to the right. It is just right of middle on the top row. Hit it, and copy what you want to quote, then paste it between the brackets that show up. You can quote from other sites using this too.

Thank you for what you do for us, and our country. Best of luck from over here.

My 12 foot Vee has an Evinrude 4hp deluxe. With me (135#) and dad (220) it will push us at about 5 mph. It wont plane, but gets us around. Many would agree that a 4 deluxe is the second best motor ever made. Passed only by the 1960s - '70s 3 hp. But any old Johnson or Evinrude will serve you for many years.

I have thrown a jig only once. But, I figured I need some trailers to try and learn. I am about to place an order from BPS, and these are on sale. Which of these are any good, and what colors do I need. I have jigs in many natural colors and can buy some in other colors if need be. What say you? http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=7519&hvarTarget=search&hvarAID=&cmCat=3401543 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=7509&hvarTarget=search&hvarAID=&cmCat=3401543 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=20151&hvarTarget=search&hvarAID=&cmCat=3401543 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=12375&hvarTarget=search&hvarAID=&cmCat=3401543 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=77171&hvarTarget=search&hvarAID=&cmCat=3401543

It was here Tuesday, then learned I had a fishing trip planned, and it went away. > Now it is cold and windy, and my fishing trip got canceled.

I have yet to see many that bolt directly to the floor. Many look like they do, but you don't see the hole they had to drill for it.

Yes, and don't move it much. That little bitty device plays a big part in counteracting the prop torque steer. Adjust it too much and you will be making a leftward turn.

Watcher here too.

I am most likely about to get one soon. The previous owner said he would leave the Xducer on, since he has an extra. If you don't mind waiting a week or so, I could tell you the way he has it.

I imagine that the deck on that boat is similar to the decks of other 14 - 16 foot Lunds. Many of them have pedestals. I am not sure how new your boat is. Is the deck made of marine plywood or aluminum. I believe it is ply. With that in mind, you need one of the springfield taperlock or similar pedestals. But, this would involve drilling holes in the floor, and I wouldn't do that until contacting Lund. There may be something right below that section of deck, that you shouldn't drill through. My first move would be to contact Lund and see what they say. They may have a different thought than me, and I would follow them as I have never seen that particular model in person.

Your bow Xducer should be on the TM. Other wise you are fishing something that may be 17 feet behind you depending on boat length. The 320 will go crazy when it gets less than 1 foot of water. Had it out Saturday for the first time and every time we got in less than a foot of water, it went berserck.

My experience with Lund is a very quality overbuilt boat. I would say it is probably okay. I am not sure why you call a deck an idea. Maybe some pics would be better. I am not sure whether you want a seat on the bench seat or on the deck, or are trying to build a deck.

Yeah, you should be able to get by with 40#. When I was searching for one for my 15 foot Lund, the suggested range was 40 - 55. I think your boat is a mod V or a shallower V than my deep vee, so it should do you fine. BTW. I know how you feel money wise. I am 14. But, I was only able to pay for a 12 foot Vee with 4hp. The Lund is more of a family boat. (Or will be when we finish restoring it. Right now, it is just taking up driveway space)

Here ya go. http://myjonboat.com/ http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/bass_boat.html The first one has lots of info even w/o buying the book. Lots of info on the site.

I did too. He said he forgot the February drawing so did 2 in March. I got an email saying that I had won. Many thanks to JBC, and yall, please don't hesitate to order from there.

I think muddy can relate. ;D ;D

I dream bass fishing 24/7.... I dream about it at night and then I day dream about it during the day....No wonder why I can't keep track on whats going on in class.... ;D ;D ;D All I think about during class is "How am I going to hit that Lake Today (where to fish) and what to use???" I've had dreams where I thought they were real and woke up expecting to have my rod and reel in my hand lol!!! I've also had nightmares that I am fishing the bayous of Louisianna and there are crocs in the river... :o :o God bless I lose it in class too. I am also a quick worker, and stay on task. So many times in the computer lab, while everyone else is finishing there paper, I am surfing bassresourse.com. No really, I am.

As for the transom saver, you wan' the motor to be at least a foot and a half off the ground on a level trailer. If the motor can be tilted down with that much clearance then the answer is no. If the motor is tilted up, the answer is YES. Never trailer with the motor on its little bracket. Even in the manual it specifically states that it is only for beaching it. I would say you also need a second battery. You don't want the TM to eat up the battery so you have to pull start it. Just the motor and bilge and lights put a large current draw on it anyway. I am not sure if it has a charger, but even if it does, in a 20 minute run, you may barely make up for what was used while starting. It is not like an alternator in a car as it is not needed to run the engine - only start it. In my inexpert opinion, you should make 20 MPH with that. May be faster than you feel safe controlling.

You want aluminum. Doesn't have to be welded. My 33 year old riveted lund doesn't leak. Fiberglass is heavy, and needs a lot of care. Dirt and sun will wear it out. The wood inside the glass will rot if prolonged exposure to water. Lastly, don't try new. Boats lose so much value just by being taken out of the dealers parking lot. You can find some lightly used ones for half of the MSRP. Unless you have no other use for your money, you shouldn't buy new.