MN Fisher

It's an old Zona Live episode from 2017, but I just got a chance to watch it as Kevin posted it on his YouTube channel. They're fishing one of the many Lake Menderchucks in MI, Kevin reels in a Michigan hog...and this is what Zona does. Yep - one big old smack-a-roo...I had to laugh.

I'm with John - any lure I tie on to whichever rig it 'belongs' is gonna produce for me. I can't think anything else, otherwise why even use it?

How can you think of ditching the 'Incredible Feider-man'?

I'm still running an Aird-X MH/F as my moving bait rod (spinners/chatters/et) with a Patriarch 7.9 (got used for $80). I'm still see-sawing about upgrading it next year...it's a good rod and sensitive enough I can feel the blades moving during retrieve. Personally - unless the new reel is primarily for cranks - go with the HS (7.3:1), it's much more versatile for things like jigs, soft-swimbaits, etc. I've got a CT-H on my crank rig, which I think is perfect for that, but jigs, T-Rigs, etc I like a bit faster so I have a Patriarch 7.1 (also got used) on my Fury 704 for those techniques.

I had a 75ah SLA in the canoe running all my electronics (2 cameras, 8" Galaxy Tablet, Striker 7cv) as well as the Endura C2-30. 4-5 hours of water time and it'd still read at 75% charge.

I dunno if you can afford my rates, Russ.

The 'Guaranteed Lowest Price' thing....it's in bold letters in the top banner of their web-page. Personally - if I gotta ask a store to price-match...then their prices aren't that good. Locally - Omnia, Scheels and Fleet Farm get my business...ya, they're all local to me Online - FishUSA and ALF are always my first stops...I rarely even look at TW anymore.

I keep hoping to 'run into him' when on Tonka as that's his 'home lake'. Vids he's in when he's not on tour are usually done on Tonka.

That's a 15 gallon 'Fleet Farm Tote'...probably fill it to 12-13 gallons when in use.

Moving along - the rear section framing is almost done...got like 9 short lengths (11"-17") and two longer sections (@34") left to cut and install. Then it's on to the casting deck which is going to be several inches higher than the rear. I also got the livewell plumbing connections done.

You'd hate my Mini-110 - 10" screen...not touch capable.

You can't lie - you just like taking pics of your hot wife with fish in her hand.

Ouch - that sucks. For portable computing - I'm still using the HP Mini-110 my wife got me for my birthday...11 years ago. Dual-core Atom, 2gb ram - replaced the 320gb drive with a 1tb. Gone through three battery-packs...ya, can still get them...and one system fan. It's slow...but it still runs all my software on Win-7 Pro.

My old digital camera (Canon A710-IS) could connect to the PC with a USB cable (USB-A to Micro-USB) and I could download that way instead of having to haul the SD card out of the camera.

Keith - your description is close to the plan I have to install the Edge I'll be getting - including the rivnuts and 1/4-20s to secure the TM deck and the TM to the deck.

Yep - hatch openings, shape to fit the space...don't forget to leave room if you're carpeting as the carpet should wrap around all edges and get attached on the 'back' side, so if you cut the hatch-covers too close they won't fit once the carpet is on Once all the cutting/shaping is done...then seal all surfaces and edges.

Just an off-the-wall thing - Seth Feider on Twitter set his personal picks Jason Cristie Jeff Gustafson Steve Kennedy David Mullins KJ Queen

Man - my first camera was a Kodak Brownie - upgraded from that to a Kodak Instamatic 110. When I was in the Air Force, I bought a Minolta XD-5 SLR in 1981. (BTW: Anyone want a 35mm SLR? I'm selling it with 2 lenses on FB Marketplace.)

Trying to trick you - make a flyer, say it's a sale, put things in the flyer at normal prices...but the brain-dead buy it cause 'it was in the sale flyer'. Another reason I avoid BPS anymore.

1/16" aluminum, long as your supports are adequate, is just fine...that's what I'm using in my rebuild (check the thread I have linked in my signature) Do NOT use pressure treated plywood. The chemicals they use will react with the aluminum. Don't need to go to marine grade. ACX or BCX plywood, long as it's sealed properly, will work just fine at a much lower cost...and you'd still want to seal the marine grade.

Another blind rivet that I'm using to mount the support rail that runs along the inside of the hull is a brazer-head drive-rivet. Exterior view after setting Interior view after setting

And seal it - 2-part epoxy is best - exterior grade Spar Urethane is #2.

Same here. In addition - I won't order anything from TW if it's out of stock and would be put on backorder...their backorder shipping policy is nuts. Plus - despite their "Guaranteed Lowest Prices", I frequently find things at a lower price elsewhere.

I haven't painted yet - still working on the interior...but the plan is to use Rust-Oleum in Smoke Grey Rust-Oleum has a good oil-based latex primer specifically for aluminum or galvanized. Pop-rivets are entirely strong enough - check out Tiny Boat Nation or TinBoats.net for projects using pop-rivets I'm using them for my current project in fact.

Well, I'm around most days, all day and it's not like Mound is that far from you. Dry boxes - already did a partial test with some scrap. Frame in 1x1 angle, 1/8" HDPE lining.