MN Fisher

1/8oz? You want a Light or Medium-Light to toss those - a 701SF or 702SF.

This is all I care about - how much can it hold and how fast can it bring the line in. I don't even know what 'size' my five BCs are - their capacity and IPT are what I wanted...so it doesn't matter if they're 100s or 300s.

I've noticed that Dobyns rods rate less for the 'words' than other brands. The lure weight rating on a Dobyns medium-heavy is what Diawa calls a medium. If you want to stick with Dobyns - then get a 4 power (704, 734, etc) that's rated 'heavy' - that's what Diawa calls a medium-heavy. I always look at the lure/line ratings and ignore the 'words' as that's more appropriate. I toss my spinners/chatters on a Diawa MH/F

KVD is all I use on both mono and Yo-Zuri Hybrid. I don't use FC, so no idea how well it works on that. Haven't seen the need to use it on braid, as mentioned earlier in the thread, braid gets limper after a while all on its own.

I'm with you, man. My PFD is on from the time I step into my canoe until I step out of it the end of the trip. If the one you have isn't comfortable enough to wear the entire time you're on the water...GET A DIFFERENT ONE.

Ya, unfortunately unless you're under 10 years old, you're not required to wear a PFD in Minnesota. Every boat needs one at least 'at hand' for all persons aboard - this includes SUPs. "A readily accessible and wearable life jacket is required for each person onboard a boat, this includes canoes, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, paddleboats and waterfowl boats." https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/rlp/regulations/boatwater/boatingguide.pdf#page=17

I'd go one step further and blacklist them from any future tournaments - even a crappie tournament.

Considering that 4.7 is my current PB - heck ya, that's a nice bass.

Heh - already have the jigs in several varieties and weights...and several styles of Junebug color trailers.

Hold the strap in place if you want to.

Wow - Field and Stream buys Dick's Sporting Goods - then turns around and sells stores to Sportsman's Warehouse. Far as prices - look at DSG...that's probably what you'll pay at F&S. I looked at SW's prices online - we have one local too - but wasn't impressed.

My sunny rig has 6# test line and my best lures have been Mepps Comets in #0-#2 in Shad

Ya, if I went to an inflatable, it'd have to be an automatic. Never know what will happen during your ejection into the water - conk your head and it'll be lights out forever.

You can - but those over-the-neck, chest styles are very uncomfortable in the long run. The one I have is a mesh-shoulder, full-round the body one with pockets (handy at times). $47-54 depending on color and comfortable for the time I'm in the canoe https://www.amazon.com/Flowt-40626-S-Fishing-Adult-Medium/dp/B005Q3Y3UO/ref=sr_1_200?dchild=1&keywords=pfd&qid=1592588637&sr=8-200&th=1

Long as it's legal - which it isn't in MN. Worms, leeches, crayfish, frogs, insects and minnows - that's what you're restricted to here...and no, a baby bluegill doesn't qualify as a 'minnow'.

The article in 1962 is when Rapala took off, but the first Rapala lure was created in 1936. • 1936 Lauri Rapala® makes his first lure out of cork • 1959 Normark® is established and starts distributing Rapala® lures in the US • 1962 Major breakthrough in US when LIFE magazine publishes an article on Rapala® https://www.rapala.com/content/rapala-general-information/fast-facts.html

I don't have many of my 'old' lures left - but two Rapala Floating 07 (Silver/Black, Red/Gold), one Floating 11 (Silver/Blue), one Countdown 09 (Red/Gold), several Mepps Aglia, Comet and Black Fury in sizes 0-3 are all from the late 60s to mid 70s and purchased new by me. I still use all of them fairly regularly too.

Tell me about it - makes it too windy for the canoe so I haven't been out in weeks.

RIGHT! I'm still working on my first cup of coffee - brain hasn't fully engaged yet.

Well, adding the weight of the hook, skirt and trailer to the 1/4oz, it'd probably go above the 3/8 rating so you should be good there. The 5/16 jig might be problematical, but as long as you don't try to toss it into orbit you should be alright.

The 55# C2 maxes at 50amps (from the owners manual), 25amps at mid speed, 5amps at dead-slow. So base your AH rating on that...100AH = 2 hours at max, 4 hours at mid-speed, 20 hours at min.

Ya - that's pretty much it... the group is the physical size of the battery. One thing to keep in mind is the AH rating...the higher the number, the longer you'll be able to power your TM...AH is Amp-Hours. In my case I have a 75AH battery running a Endura 30 - at speed 5 it draws 30 amps...so I could run at max for 2.5hours. Your TM draws 42amps at max, 20amps at mid and 5amps at slow - so a 100AH battery will run your TM at max speed for 2.4 hours, mid speed for 5 hours or dead slow for 20 hours. East Penn is the manufacturer of many labels - Duracell is one, West Marine is another. I have a West Marine and it's been solid.

40# Sufix 832 to 12# YZH leader - since I'm pulling them across the top of submerged weeds, I want the braid in case they dive back down into them...the YZH is for shock absorption.

I'm a simple sort - Strike King Tour Grade 1/4oz or 3/8oz Black/Blue, Sexy Shad, and either Bluegill or Green Pumpkin. Berkley Pit Boss. Berkley Chigger Craw, RI Skinny Dipper, or Zoom Ultra Vibe Chunk

Wife and used sleeves too - until we decided that MtG wasn't our thing and sold all our cards, including 1st Edition. When all was said and done, we sold them for more than we had paid...by a fair amount.