MN Fisher

Are you freaking kidding me?

I had that issue with my old 40HP Evinrude on the 14' Runabout years ago. It'd start great in the driveway (with water running through the system) then at the launch it was dead. It was the starter coil burning out. Turns out there was a short in the system. Something to check anyway.

For me... Rods: I'll be installing eye-screws into the butt end of the rods and other eye-screws to the panel the rod-holders will be mounted to. The split rings go on the panel screws, the D-Ring clips to the rod ends. When I pull a rod, unclip, then clip to another leash that's attached to my PFD. Other gear: Eye-screws in various places with the D-Ring clipped to the tool/bag.

That's second degree...do NOT pop the blisters. Cool them under COOL not COLD water, soft gauze to pad them and let them dry. Don NOT apply any ointments. Mom was an RN with a Masters and a teaching certificate

Also...when it's latched, there should be a 'little' freeplay between the hitch and ball. Enough so that it doesn't screech (metal on metal) when turning or other movement, but not enough that the coupler can disengage from the ball under movement.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-134607.html Question: How do you properly adjust the hitch latch on a trigger type assembly? Is it normal to have a small amount of forward/reverse play between it and the ball? How much? Thank You asked by: David H Expert Reply:To adjust the hitch latch on your trailer's coupler, you will want to adjust the nut at the bottom of the latch. This nut will be tightened or loosened depending on what you need for your coupler. I have attached a diagram showing you the location of the nut that you will want to adjust. The ball needs to be secured in the coupler and unable to simply come off. However, there should be some room for play. The hitch ball needs to be able to move inside the coupler so that nothing binds up while you are towing. The trailer needs to be able to move and pivot while moving, so the ball should be secure, but not tight, in the coupler. Sometimes you also have to hold the underjaw back a little to let it slip on. That might be all you need.

Based on this criteria - I have nothing BUT budget rigs...though I try for the best quality I can in those. Necessity brought on by being on a fixed-income with very little 'wiggle-room'.

If it's in the wrong spot, the mods will move it - can't delete posts in this forum. I use the Palomar knot almost exclusively whether it's mono, FC or braid. Wetting the knot before tightening is a must, and don't jerk the knot tight, steady pull.

Definitely not. Got a set of 12 for $10 on Amazon. They seem to be enough to keep me from losing things haphazardly, though I might upgrade them over the course of time for more durable ones.

1. Welcome to the forum - good group of people here with lots of info. 2. My President BC is my 'versatile' rig, running pretty much the same lure selection as you have. My recommendation is 20# - 30# braid with or without a leader. I'll be running 20# Power Pro on my rig.

36 days and counting before I can target the bass here.

Especially the sunglasses. Lost an eye to cancer caused by...you guessed it. Not wearing sunglasses enough so that the UV rays damaged the inside of the eye enough to get carcinoma growing.

Also known as "If you don't let me get back to sleep, they'll never find your body."

Bass are 'stockier', so center-of-weight is towards the front. Pike, pickerel, muskie are LONG fish, so the center-of-weight is much further back. Not that I'd ever stick my hand inside a pike/muskie's jaw - even with gloves...those teeth are SHARP. No, I'm not answering how I know that.

Non-Resident license fees for 2019 Angling - 24-hour Code 139 (nr) $14.00 Angling - 72-hour (nr)- Code 127 $36.00 Angling - 7-day (nr)- Code 126 $43.00

Next time you're due out here - drop a PM. You can either bring your boat or I got a stadium seat for the front of my canoe.

Here you go, J.

So far you've described Minnesota to a 'T'.

Even though I'm in a canoe with stabilizers to prevent capsizing - I invested in tethers for my rods, tackle bags and what-not. Better safe than sorry.

Here's how I do it - others may do it different. Toothy fish - pike, walleye, gar, etc. - net like you've been using. Panfish - bluegill, crappie, yellow perch, etc. Just lift them with the rod and grab the body Bass - lip them while in the water unless they're dinks...then just like panfish Trout - net Carp - they're a 'rough fish' IMO - do what ever you want.

I mention in the 'Dedicated Rods' thread that I can handle up to the 130 WP with what I have now - as well as smaller swimbaits. Next year I might get a heavier rig for the larger WPs and Swimbaits.

As I said earlier - with the five rigs I have, I can do almost everything. Only thing I can't toss is heavy swimbaits or topwaters. I can toss WPs through the 130 and, depending on the manufacturer, up to 5" swimbaits on the Fuego without overloading the rod. Only rig I might add in the future is a heavier setup for the larger/heavier swimmers and toppers.

Awww how sweet - he likes my #1 rig. My cost using Amazon for that rig was $129.

50# should be fine for it.

If I'm fishing crankbaits - lipless or not - or jerkbaits...anything with trebles really...I'll set the hook with a medium sweep to the side instead of a hard 'haul' vertically. If the hooks are good quality and sharp enough, a medium strength sweep is plenty to set them.