Tennessee Boy

I aways try to match the color of the live poppers that I see popping across the water. 😆

I the past 5 years I’ve gone from 90% mono 10% braid to 50% mono 50% braid. I occasionally spool up some fluorocarbon to remind myself why I don’t use fluorocarbon.😊

I remember a trip from about 40 years ago. It was a particularly busy and stressful time in my life, and I decided to take a day off to go fishing. It was spring, and I was expecting to absolutely slay them. I was focused on catching a lot of fish. I hit the lake early and fished for a few hours, but I couldn’t get a bite. I loaded up the boat and headed to another lake. A few more hours passed, and still—nothing. At that point, I gave up on catching fish and decided to just ride around and explore parts of the lake I’d never seen. I spent several hours just enjoying being out there. As the sun sank low in the sky, I remember very clearly thinking: I can’t remember the last time I felt this relaxed. It's easy to get so focused on catching fish that you forget to enjoy just being out there.

I'm assuming you were fishing from the bank. What jumps out at me is that your trip appears to be a search for the right lure. I do not approach fishing this way. That said, I don't fish from the bank so I don't have the same limitation as a bank fisherman where lure selection may be the only variable in some circumstances. What I would suggest is to consider other variables like the depth you are fishing, the speed of retrieve, the angle of your retrieve, is the wind blowing toward you or away from you. Are the fish relating to certain type of cover/structure. I look at lures as tools that allow me to fish certain places in certain ways. Some lures allow me to fish on top of the water, some on the bottom. Some lures allow me to fish fast, others slow. Some make noise, some don't. Do I need a weedless lure? The list goes on. I do think that some lures just seem to have that magic something that generates bites but I first try to determine the bigger picture. For example, if I determine that they are hitting on top, then I try to dial in the magic topwater bait that will maximize my catch. Right or wrong, after catching a fish on the T-Rig and grub, I would have been trying to dial that in. Why did I catch those fish? Does it suggest a slow retrieve on the bottom is the key? Should I try different size worms or different actions? Focus on why they are bitting the lure not what lure they are bitting.

I wear them and water getting on them when I'm fishing drives me crazy. I love fishing in misty rain but the glasses can be a problem. I used to wear contacts when I was young but my eyes are just too dry for them now. I talked to my Dr about it and he said he could prescribe disposable contacts for me to wear on rainy days on the water. The dryness probably wouldn't be an issue in the rain. I wear progressive lenses so he suggested to buy some cheap reading glasses at the drug store to use when I'm wearing the contacts and tying a knot. It sounds like a feasible plan but I haven't done it yet.

@Way2slow are you saying a 4% voltage drop is dangerous?

I disagree that 6 gauge is too small. I have a 24v 80lb Ultrex. It draws 41 amps at max speed. Using standard resistance values for 6 gauge wire found on the internet you would see a 0.65 volt drop in 40 feet of wire (battery to TM and back) at 41 amps. That's 2.7% if all of my math is correct. At 60 amps it would be 0.95 volt drop or 3.95% 3% drop is the standard for critical application and 10% drop for non critical. My trolling motor is below 5 (Max speed 10) 95% of the time and below 3 80% of the time. It pulls 2.5 amps on 3 speed. Voltage drop is dependent on amperage so at 2.5 amps the drop is like 0.16% 6 gauge wire is pretty standard for trolling motors in bass boats. I think you're good with 6 gauge.

Once again I think a more precise and scientific name would solve the problem. Let's just use the latin scientific name of the species which are used by scientist worldwide. So Shad would become - Dorosoma Petenense and for Sexy Shad we would add the closest latin word for sexy- Voluptuosus Dorosoma Petenense This is much simpler. 😆

Maybe we should switch to a more exact color identification system like Pantone. So instead of June Bug it would be PANTONE 18-3224. You can buy a Pantone color guide for about $200 and everyone would be happy. 😆

It hit 10,000 replies today.

I thought it would be appropriate to bump this thread after hearing the bad news of @Catt's passing. I don't fish Toledo Bend but this is a very interesting read for anyone. I know Tommy took a lot of pride in this thread. He shared his years of experience on this forum and I know I'm a better angler because of it. This thread is the best place to start for those of you who are new and want to learn from a very seasoned angler. Catt loved Toledo Bend and loved to share his knowledge and experience. There's stuff here that can be applied to any fishery. We will miss you @Catt but your wisdom will live on here on BassResource.

If we're relying on AI. Here is the ChatGPT answer using the Deep Dive function so it did about 10 minutes of research before generating the answer. Question I asked: Is crimping or soldering better for extending a 6 awg trolling motor wire with 60 amp circuit breaker? The wire will be run along the gunwall on the deck of the boat. ChatGPT 4o Deep Research Report: Crimping vs. Soldering for Extending a 6 AWG Marine Wire Introduction Extending a trolling motor’s 6 AWG power cable (feeding a 60 amp circuit breaker) requires a robust, low-resistance connection that can withstand harsh marine conditions. The wire will run along the gunwale on the deck – an area exposed to vibration, moisture, and possibly salt spray. Two common methods for splicing heavy-gauge wires are crimping (using a butt splice connector) and soldering the joint. This report examines the pros and cons of crimping versus soldering for this specific marine application. Key factors include electrical performance, corrosion resistance, mechanical durability under vibration, and ease of installation. We also consider marine safety standards (like ABYC guidelines) and expert recommendations. A summary comparison table is provided, followed by a recommendation for the best approach in this scenario. Electrical Performance Crimped connections – when done properly – provide excellent electrical performance for high-current marine wiring. A quality crimp effectively “cold-welds” the wire to the connector, creating a gas-tight metal-to-metal bond with very low resistance . In fact, crimp terminals have been used for decades in critical applications (from automobiles to aircraft and warships) as a proven method for making low-resistance connections without solder . The crimp compresses the strands tightly, which breaks down surface oxides and ensures maximum contact area. As long as the correct size connector and a proper crimp tool are used, the result is a reliable, high-conductivity joint that can handle 60 A current with minimal voltage drop. By contrast, soldered connections can also be electrically sound if executed perfectly – solder itself is a good conductor and can create a solid bond between wires. However, soldering does not guarantee a low-resistance joint unless the technique is flawless. A common pitfall is the “cold solder” joint, where insufficient heat or poor solder flow leaves flux or gaps in the joint, causing high resistance . Such defects may not be immediately obvious but can lead to voltage drop, heating, or intermittent performance under heavy loads. Additionally, unlike a crimp which inherently forms a tight mechanical contact, a solder-only splice relies entirely on the solder for conductivity; if any part of that solder joint degrades, electrical performance suffers. In practice, marine experts assert that a properly crimped connection is equal or superior to solder in conductivity for DC wiring . For a trolling motor’s power cable, where stable voltage and current flow are critical, the consistency of a crimp is a safer bet. It’s telling that American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards prohibit solder as the sole means of connection, underscoring that a crimp or other mechanical fastening is the primary method to ensure a sound electrical and mechanical link . Overall, while both methods can theoretically yield low resistance, crimping provides more consistent electrical performance in the field, with less risk of hidden flaws. Corrosion Resistance Marine environments are notoriously corrosive due to moisture (often saltwater) and temperature swings. Crimped splices, if done with marine-grade materials, offer excellent corrosion resistance. High-quality marine crimp connectors are made of tinned copper, which resists corrosion, and often come with insulating sleeves that are nylon or polyolefin heat-shrink. When a crimped butt connector is sealed with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing, it creates a waterproof barrier that keeps out salt and moisture . The result is a gas-tight, sealed connection – the crimping action itself makes the joint air-tight, and the adhesive heat shrink provides an extra layer of protection against water ingress and “green” copper oxidation . Many marine electricians also apply dielectric grease or corrosion-inhibiting spray on the crimp before shrinking for additional protection . In short, a properly executed crimp with tinned conductors and sealed insulation can survive for decades without significant corrosion. Soldered joints, on the other hand, require more care to be made corrosion-resistant. The solder itself (typically a tin-lead or tin-silver alloy) is somewhat resistant to oxidation, but the process of soldering introduces flux – and any flux residues or voids can become a site for corrosion. If acid flux is used (never recommended for electrical work) it will definitelycause copper corrosion; even normal rosin flux, if not fully cleaned, can attract moisture or create mildly acidic residues over time . Moreover, solder tends to wick into the wire strands beyond the joint, under the insulation. If the joint is not perfectly sealed, moisture can creep along the soldered strands, leading to hidden corrosion further up the wire. A soldered splice must therefore be thoroughly sealed with heat-shrink tubing or self-fusing tape to keep out moisture. However, achieving a waterproof seal can be trickier because the soldered section is often irregular in shape and the process of soldering may have shrunk back some insulation. Some installers will coat a soldered connection in liquid electrical tape or epoxy-lined heat shrink to try to exclude water. Despite these measures, many experts warn that soldered connections are more prone to develop the “black wire” or verdigris corrosion over time if any gap in the seal occurs . Crimped joints inherently have less wicking of solder (since none is used) and usually a shorter exposed area, so they present less opportunity for capillary water intrusion. In summary, while both methods can be made corrosion-resistant with proper sealing, crimping with tinned materials and adhesive heat shrink is simpler and more foolproof. Soldered splices carry a higher risk if not meticulously sealed, and any mistake in sealing can lead to creeping corrosion that compromises the connection. For a wire run along a boat’s deck (gunwale), which will see occasional spray and humidity, the safer choice is a well-sealed crimp joint. Mechanical Durability Mechanical durability is often the decisive factor in the crimp vs. solder debate for marine use. Boats endure constant vibration from engines and waves, as well as flexing and movement of cables as the vessel moves. In this regard, crimped connections are far more robust. A proper crimp joint maintains the flexibility of the stranded wire right up to the edge of the connector. The strands are cold-welded inside the crimp barrel but immediately outside that barrel the wire remains flexible. This means the transition from stiff connector to flexible wire is very short and well-contained. Under vibration, a good crimp essentially moves with the wire – there is no extended “hard” section to concentrate stress. Pull-out strength of a correctly crimped 6 AWG butt splice is very high (meeting UL and MIL-spec tensile tests), so the wire is unlikely to pull out of the connector if crimped with the right tool . In contrast, soldering creates a hard, rigid section of wirewhere the solder wicks into the strands. The once-stranded wire becomes a solid rod for some distance past the joint. This “hard spot” is a known point of weakness – vibration and flex tend to concentrate at the boundary between the soldered (stiff) part and the still-stranded (flexible) part of the wire. Over time, flexing at this boundary can cause the copper strands to fatigue and break. As one marine wiring expert bluntly summarizes: “Solder creates a brittle point and will fail before a proper crimp every time” . Indeed, ABYC’s rationale for discouraging solder-only connections is precisely the risk of vibration-induced failure. ABYC Standard E-11 states: “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit.” If solder is used, the connection must be “supported to withstand vibration” – meaning the joint should be secured so it cannot move . This is difficult to guarantee in practice. A soldered splice in a wire run along the gunwale would need to be strapped down tightly on both sides of the joint to prevent any flex at the joint. Even then, the stress riser still exists. By comparison, a crimped butt splice with strain relief is already mechanically stable and can further be secured with clamps, making it highly vibration-resistant without special precautions. Another aspect of mechanical durability is how the connection behaves under extreme conditions, like an overload or high heat. If a heavy current overload or fault were to occur (for example, a short that briefly exceeds 60 A before the breaker trips), a soldered joint could potentially heat up to the solder’s melting point, especially if it had any pre-existing high resistance. Standard 60/40 solder melts around ~188 °C. In a worst-case scenario, a soldered splice could re-melt and come apart under severe overheating. As one boating forum member noted, “Over-current situations can cause solder to melt… you have the potential for a live wire flopping around that could start your boat burning” . While such extremes are hopefully rare (the circuit breaker should protect against sustained overloads), it’s an added failure mode to consider. A crimped connection has no such melting point concerns – the copper will handle very high temperatures (well beyond any safe level for surrounding insulation) without the connection itself failing. In summary, crimping wins decisively on mechanical durability for marine wiring. It produces a strong, vibration-proof joint that retains wire flexibility, whereas soldering introduces a brittle segment prone to failure unless the joint is perfectly supported (and even then, the margin for error is slim). This is reflected in industry practice: marine and aviation technicians overwhelmingly use crimp or bolt connections, not solder, for wire splices due to the superior resilience . Ease of Installation When it comes to practical installation on a boat, crimping is generally faster and more straightforward, provided the proper tools are at hand. To crimp a 6 AWG cable splice, one needs an appropriately sized butt connector and a heavy-duty crimp tool. For large gauge wires, this typically means a ratcheting lug crimper, hydraulic crimper, or at least a hammer crimp tool, since the common hand crimpers for small terminals won’t handle 6 AWG . Acquiring or borrowing a good crimp tool is a one-time effort, and many marine supply stores offer crimping services or tool loans (West Marine, for example, often lets customers use their heavy crimper for battery lugs in-store ). Once you have the right tool, the process is quick: strip the wire, insert it into the butt splice, and compress the crimp until it’s fully tight. A properly crimped connector will hold the wire so firmly that you cannot pull it out by hand . After crimping, you simply heat the insulating tube to seal it. No curing time, no cleanup. The result is immediately strong and serviceable. In tight spaces on a boat, using a crimp tool can still be done – many crimp tools have long handles or hydraulic heads that can fit where a soldering iron might be awkward. The main “challenge” with crimping is ensuring you have the correct size connector and tool for the job, but manufacturers like Ancor make 6 AWG butt connectors readily available, and using the matching die on a crimper will yield a consistent result. Soldering a heavy-gauge marine cable, by comparison, can be more demanding in practice. First, producing a good solder joint on 6 AWG wire requires a very high heat source – typically a large soldering iron (200+ watts) or a small torch. Applying sufficient heat to the joint without melting too much insulation is a delicate balance. On a rocking boat or outdoors (wind can cool the joint, and open flames are risky), this becomes even more challenging. It’s easy for an inexperienced person to underheat (resulting in a cold solder joint that looks dull and weak) or overheat (damaging insulation and charring the wire). As one marine how-to author notes, soldering on a boat “takes practice” and “requires a quality soldering iron”, especially to do it reliably in less-than-ideal conditions . In the context of splicing an in-place wire run, one might have to solder overhead or in a confined compartment, which is far from the ideal bench setup. Additionally, soldering thick wire is time-consuming – you must heat the copper mass evenly and feed solder until it wicks fully through the splice. Any movement of the joint before it cools can ruin the connection. Once soldered, you need to clean any flux residue (to avoid future corrosion) and then apply heat shrink or tape. Overall, soldering is a more skill-sensitive and time-consuming process than crimping for this size of cable. In terms of convenience, crimping also has the edge: no electricity required (useful if the boat’s electrical system is a work in progress or if you’re docked without power), and no open flame. Soldering in a bilge or near fuel lines is obviously a hazard, whereas crimping is cold-work. The only scenario where soldering might seem “easier” is if one does not have the correct crimp tool at all – but given the importance of this connection, investing in the right tool or hiring a marine electrician to do the crimp is well worth it. In fact, some boaters who lack big crimpers will take their cables to a battery shop or marine service center for professional crimping rather than attempt an inadequate DIY crimp or a risky solder job. To summarize, for a one-off splice, crimping with the proper tool is generally easier and more foolproof. Soldering heavy cables is doable but requires much more know-how and care to get right, making it less practical for most boat owners in the field.

Good question. I've heard some say that because Dielectric grease is not conducive, you should not put it between to conductors, only around the connection to keep moisture out after the connection is made. Others say put it on battery terminals before you connect to them. I personally do not use it on crimped connections or on metal surfaces that conduct electricity. I feel like a well crimped connection with heat shrink wrap should be good enough. I guess putting the grease on after crimping and before the heat shrink could help prevent oxidation but I've never done it.

I would crimp the connection but make sure you do it right. You should not be able to pull the wires apart with all your strength. You need the right tools to do it right. If you don't have a good crimper you need to borrow one or buy one. A good hydraulic crimping tool can create a strong durable connection. I do not like soldering for high current applications like a trolling motor. Soldered connections have higher resistance and can crack in harsh environments. Here's good article on soldering vs crimping. https://whma.org/soldering-vs-crimping-advantages-disadvantages/ The worst option is a plug. I've known a couple of people that had a fire start on their boat. Both were from trolling motor plugs.

Speaking of moth wing gray. I've been looking for a 5 inch ribbon tail worm in moth wing grey, preferably with morning smoke whispers colored glitter. 😆

The difference is in the layout. The 178C has two live wells and the storage layout is different. I thinks it's designed a little more with meat eaters in mind. (Crappie, Walleye, etc)

The whole idea of balancing a rod has always puzzled me. People hold a rod horizontally with no lure to judge its perceived quality—if that matters to you, go for it. But in reality, as soon as you tie on a lure, the balance changes. Tilt the rod up and it changes again because the reel’s center of gravity isn’t in line with the blank, especially with spinning gear. Here’s what really baffles me: folks spend hundreds to shave fractions of an ounce off a rod, then turn around and add weight to “balance” it. If that makes sense to you, great—but I’ve never quite understood it.

Well said @Pat Brown. I agree about 90%. I think there is solid evidence that color matters a little. In most cases anglers can't tell the difference because they don't fish two different colors equally for long enough to tell a difference. They throw one color for 20 minutes without a bite and say the fish won't hit it. Then they switch to their favorite color and catch a fish so they throw that color all day. They might throw their favorite color for 40 minutes without a bite but they don't lose faith in it the way they did with the other color.

The 50 percent number seems to be something dreamed up by the Lithium industry. Depth of discharge shortens the life of all batteries. 20% discharge is worse than 10%. There is nothing magical about 50 percent. One study in the solar industry - where adding more batteries is always an option - said it was cost effective to add more battery capacity when depth of discharge was more than 70%. The fish finders will not always draw the maximum. Your motor will charge the batteries when it's running. 14 hours of night fishing with lights and the live well running might push the limits. In those cases you might want to put the console unit to sleep while you're fishing and take one of those jump starter battery packs to start the motor in case you deplete the batteries.

If you have the two batteries wired in parallel then both batteries are running everything and are being charged by the motor. Under normal circumstances I don't think you will have battery issues as long as both batteries are in good shape.

It's the ideal combination. The black catches bass, the blue catches the angler.

Some variation of Black and Blue, brown, and white are the only jig colors I have ever used.

Fishing against the current is against the rules as far as I'm concerned. That said, I'm convinced that some fish don't know the rules so I'll make a few "illegal" cast on any given outing. As for the Tiny Torpedo, that's one of the lures I don't talk about in public.

I took the Alabama Boating Basics Course in 1995 when I lived there. It wasn't required but I took it to get a lower insurance rate. I'm not sure if it satisfies the requirement. I also took the Kentucky exam which I'm sure would count if I still lived in Kentucky. I'm not sure they will accept it now. I've been thinking about taking the Tennessee exam just to be sure. A little safety education never hurt anybody.

Did you take the Alabama exam or the Tennessee exam?