5/0

I have several of these baits in 3/8 and 1/2, but none in 3/4. In the past I rarely threw them, but would like to start doing so. I read an article that said you should keep a selection of either the 3/8 or 1/2, but never both, and a selection of 3/4 or 1 oz., but never both. So, until I can get some 3/4 or 1 oz. spinnerbaits can I add a trailer to a 3/8 to make it a 3/4? Say adding a Keitech Fat Impact to make it a 3/4 to fish deeper? Any suggestions on brands of 3/4 to 1 oz. SB would be appreciated. Most of my SB are Terminators or Strike King and the 3/4 to 1 oz. are not available in these brand. Thanks....Joe

Thank you A-Jay! That's what I'm beginning to realize! I'm making it too complicated. To reverse it, would you use a drill motor and old spool? I'm guessing that you would have to do this twice to get fresh line at the front.

Don't know about fishing it, but I'd like to see my wife's eyes when walking it up the bed! I'm with most here, i'd rather run into a snake than a spider!

Hi All, I posted a similar topic a couple months ago, but would like a little more help. I have several old Curado CU200 bait casters that I would like to respool using a 12# mono backing and topping them off with 30-65 pound braid, 10-20 pound flouro, or copolymer lines depending on the application. I would like to get enough backing on to leave me with 80-100 yards of main line. The IPT recovery for these reels was not posted in the specs at that time, so I figured that with a full spool of 12# flouro my recovery would be about 26 IPT. I tried this when spooling 12# backing to 30# braid and ended up using way too much braid! Was this because IPT turn recovery changes significantly on an empty spool? If so, how much? I may be getting to scientific here, but I would like to get the most out of my mainline spools, especially the braid. Thanks....Joe

Hi All, While I've been around the site for a few months and have posted several questions (Thank you for the responses and your patience!), I never really introduced myself. I joined a local bass club about 15 yrs. ago having never fished for bass before, not owning a single rod or reel, and was just getting to understand the techniques and the tackle when I had to give it up due to work and family obligations. I've since retired and am considering a return after being away from it for at least 10 yrs. The last couple of months have been spent sorting through all my old stuff, discarding what couldn't be salvaged, buying replacements, and reorganizing. I've had all my reels serviced, a big shout out to ReelEx here in Calif., they do a fantastic job and thankfully my reels were in decent enough shape to continue using even at their advanced age. So here I am getting ready to return after not picking up a rod in a decade. It will be starting from scratch just like it was 15 years ago and that is why some of my questions appear to be no brainers. I appreciate all your help! Joe

I got the baby ones. Can they be used on a chatterbait?

Just received two packs I ordered online and found they are hollow. What’s the advantage/disadvantage of this? Thanks....Joe

That’s really nice! I have mine horizontally on a pegboard. Tried to add pic but site won’t let me. May have to look into changing to your approach! Not familiar with a pool noodle though.

In this case do you set the CC to the point where the spool stops spinning at contact with the water or ground?

Thanks for the help. Will look into replacement brass washers. How about my idea of weaning myself off the CC knob and using the brakes to control backlash? Joe

I have flipped them over. Unfortunately, the reels are at least a decade old and parts are no longer available. I just had a couple of them serviced and they are in good shape otherwise. That is why I was thinking of keeping the Cast Control knob loose and practicing controlling backlash at the beginning of the cast with my thumb. I could then experiment with the centrifugal brakes to help with distance and different lure weights. Would this be a good approach?

I second most of the above replies. Bass mags are into the advertising.

I know this topic has been brought up before and I've read several articles concerning spool tension/brake settings, so I hope you'll bear with me on this post. I own 4-5 older Curado CU200B and Castaic SF bait cast reels that had dimpling on the copper washer in the Cast Control knob. From the articles I've read this was caused by setting the tension too high and by continuing to do this it could damage the reels. I've since flipped the washers over, but I would like to get away from using the Cast Control knob at all and use my thumb to control backlash at the beginning of the cast. Would setting the Cast Control knob to the point where the spool does not move side to side and putting all the Centrifugal Brakes on (six in my case) accomplish this? I could then reduce the brakes as I get better at controlling backlash. Thank you for your time....Joe

Thanks again for all your help! I never realized that the 783c was such a jack of all trades rod, I initially bought it solely for T-rig and jigs. Putting your ideas into play I've decided to use the 784c for those applications and use the 783c for the alternate rigs you mentioned. I also have a Shimano Crucial CRC-X70H that I was thinking of using if I want to try my hand at heavy cover fishing like punching. I never had the nerve for it before!

Thank you! I assume it could be used with underpins too, ie: Spintrix Blade Runners and Owner Flashy Swimmers? Thanks....Joe

Is that the Bantam Curado from around the early 2000's? If so, I have 4 of them and would like to know where you ordered your parts. Thanks....Joe

Hi All, What would be the best applications for these older rods? I thought I would use the 784 for casting/pitching worms and jigs. The 783 for spinnerbaits, underspins, and crankbaits. Am I in the ballpark here? I also have an old Daiwa Heartland 6'6" Med. Action rod I picked up years ago, couldn't tell you where. Is this a decent rod? If so, what would it be best used for? Thanks....Joe

I have several old spinnerbaits that are in need of blades and swivels. Most are Teminators with titanium wires. Luckily the baits, while being quite old, are in pretty good condition. After browsing this thread, changing the clevis seems to be out of the question due to bending the loop out of the wire. Not sure I want to try this and break the wire or get it crooked. These parts are intact and appear okay, it's the blades at the end of the wire that need the work. Replacing missing or damaged swivels and blades. How do you determine the swivel and split ring sizes to match what came on them out of the package? I've looked online for these components separately and the numbers and sizes are confusing. I was thinking about getting the Sampo ball bearing with attached split rings in #2. Will these work on most spinnerbaits no matter the size? As far as blade size, the originals were 4.25. Will a 4 or 4.5 work just as well? Can you replace a Willowleaf with an Indiana or Colorado of the same size without affecting how the bait runs? Also, if the size is not on the blade how do you measure it it determine the size of a replacement? Thank you for your time....Joe

Thank you! I’ve tried it and I’m getting good results most of the time, slimmer knot too.

That’s it exactly! I’ve been practicing Albright & Alberto and if you don’t have have lines coming out in same direction it slips through. Alberto seems to be a slimmer knot.

Thanks all for the advice! I've practiced the Alberto with 7 wraps to the left and 7 back to the right, trying to get the 7 to the right in the gaps. Is this critical for knot strength? The results have been passable at best?. The trouble comes when cinching the knot down, the braid coils on the left don't cinch down as well, especially the first one. I've been able to work it down, but notice that the flouro at the end of the knot looks kinky indicating a weakness in the knot. How can I correct this? I've been practicing with 8 lb. flouro to 10 lb. braid. Thank you....Joe

In that Shin knot does he go back through leader loop at the end?

Wow, I've been pestering this forum with posts on leader connection knots, specifically flouro to braid, and I see this! This is not a knock, it's just that the light bulb just came on in my head! So if I am understanding this correctly, I should not worry about leaders (at least until I can tie the knots correctly) and use the lines that best fit the application on my reels and fill my spools with them. Thanks....Joe

Is this knot a good one for leader to braid connections? With only 2 wraps of braid through the leader loop and then 12 wraps back it appears easier than the Alberto or Uni to Uni. Would it be strong enough? Thanks....Joe

Hi All, I ask this question because I want to use cheap 8 lb. mono backing on some of my reels and save money by getting more out of a spool of main line The main line could be anything from 10-65 lb. braid to 10-20 lb. flouro. My reels are older Shimanos that don't print the Recovery in the specs. So I took a reel that had 12 lb. flouro on it and marked a spot on the line and turned the handle one turn and marked again, it came out to be about 25". Would this 25" recovery be close enough for any line that I choose to spool my reels with? Thanks in advance, Joe