5/0

As a back seat I take a tackle binder with SB for the day. Attached to my bag with a carabiner or stowed in a locker on the boat. I do this for soft plastics too. To store SB at home I use the same type of binder and hang it on a pegboard.

Upon thinking about it some more I guess a tighter CC setting would be help when pitching. This would help in the event the lure should hit something like a branch or cattail on an errant cast.

So the cast control knob adjustment and the brake system are not independent of each other as I have previously thought? I always believed that CC helped at the back end of the cast, when the lure entered the water and the brakes helped on the front end, during the cast itself. It seems to me that if you put tension on the spool with CC and then increase the brakes you would be putting an additional tension on the spool. If this is correct, why even bother with the CC and just simply add more brake to help with backlash problems until thumb gets educated? Joe

I got so involved in other aspects of this reel that I failed to see that is was rated at 12-16 pound line test, mono probably. I’m assuming I can put 10 (flouro or copoly) on it with no problems, since many opt for braid that have smaller diameters. Joe

Thanks all. I saw that video somewhere, I’ll find it and watch!

I was one too who couldn’t be patient fishing a weightless Senko, still am to a degree! But I see guys catching fish with it and am determined to keep trying it.

I use the Palomar when setting up D/S at home. On the water I’ve gone to using the uni knot above the drop shot hook because I have the VMC spinshot hooks. The knot below the hook could be any knot you choose.

Received this real today. Not going to use it until I learn it with practice. My question is where to set brakes initially? The directions state that you should set the CC so that the spool does not move horizontally and then begin at brake setting of 20. Then adjust brake until you feel comfortable as far as overruns are concerned. If I follow this method with a 1/4 oz. for practice and find a sweet spot, will this setting work with heavier lures? I ask this because it says to adjust brakes per lure weight and I have trouble casting light lures on a BC. Joe

Thanks Tom!

What brand of scroungers? Looked at Lucky E Strike and they had bad reviews> Joe

Wow! That hurts just thinking about it! Now I'll be watching myself AND who I'm fishing with! Joe

Tom, I think it would work out ok because I believe I have enough common sense to know when and where to cast a lure to keep the boater safe.His positioning of the boat has nothing to do with it, if wasn't safe I wouldn't cast. Depending on the person I fish with, I generally abide by the rule that I don't cross the 50 yard line unless they are comfortable with it. That being said, I fished with a guy years ago who had his boat positioned perpendicular to the bank and throwing a spinnerbait. He was bent over the front like a bird dog and was whipping that bait past my head on his back cast. I had to practically crawl on top of the motor to get out of the way. I finally had to yell at him. He never once stopped to consider what he was doing or the potential consequences of his actions. Joe

Tander and Swbass, thanks for the suggestions! You nailed it on the head with this one! Point is well taken and will be put into practice! I back seat in a small local club, not on any professional circuits. But your points are well taken. I do speak with the boater after we're paired up to get some idea as to what I should bring and this allows me to think about other techniques I could use as an alternative. Even though we are fishing against each other (unless it's a team event), I go with the mindset of having fun. It can get discouraging at times when I don't catch many fish or the boater does something totally different, but I just try to pick up any information I can and look forward to the next time I'm out. I posed the original question because I have really used crank baits that much and wanted to give them a try. It can vary. Some have large ares of 10' or less. Others have a lot of shallow water that drops off pretty fast to 20-30' along walls, rocky banks, and along points. Thought about getting baits that would actually dive deeper than water being fished. Something like the Strike King XD series. Then I could carry just a few in shad or crawfish colors.

Would like suggestions and advice from any of you back seaters out there on what size, color, and depth I should have on hand. I have room for two 3600 six panel boxes in my bag, one for cranks (all depth ranges) and one for jerkbaits and topwaters (frogs included). Obviously the size of these boxes doesn’t allow for a wide variety of sizes and colors. So I would appreciate any help on what colors and depths I should be concentrating on? Thanks....Joe

Both on a football.

I was in a Bass Pro today and was looking at the DC reels. I got to asking and the guy mentioned the three setting chip that was used for different types of casts. I asked him; is the chip a third option after brakes and cast control? He said yes. I'm thinking; I set the brakes, the cast control, and now I have to worry about a chip! My head started to hurt! Pretty soon we'll be verbally instructing the reels: "I'm going to throw a 3/8 oz. jerk bait on a medium, moderate action rod 15 yards. The winds are out of the west at 7 MPH. Make it so." I make this post with tongue firmly in cheek, but is this type of technology really necessary/ Joe

I've actually seen bears swimming across lakes in N. Calif., so being on the water is no guarantee that you won't run into them! I've also seen videos and pictures of guys fishing up in Alaska with bears all around them fishing the same water. I don't think a fish would be worth the trouble!

Thank you all for the input!

People asking for recommendations and advice on new bait cast reel purchases on this forum are endless. I have been VERY guilty of this myself! I got to thinking about this and thought maybe the questions should be framed differently. Rather than asking which Brand X, Model X vs. Brand Y, Model Y to buy, we should be asking something entirely different. Namely, what do you look for in a bait cast reel? The price does not necessarily have to be a factor, not does the gear ratio, or even the application. I’m thinking stuff like: durability, how long will parts and service be available, ease of use, good drag, and good brake systems. Or anything else we should be looking for in a reel. Look forward to your thoughts! Joe

Thanks all! I like the quarters in the chair leg protector idea.

Is that a GYCB Senko? If so, what number?

I’m sorry! You are absolutely correct! It does feel more awkward though with just the pinkie behind the trigger. I wish I had Hank Parker hands! Thank you for the link! Once the weights are added, should the rod feel light towards the tip?

When palming my bait casters with ring and pinkie behind the rod trigger I can’t reach the line with my pointing finger. I have fairly big hands but pretty stubby fingers. So I was experimenting with just my pinkie behind the trigger. It was better, but when holding the rod at a 45 degree angle the rod felt tip heavy. I feel that this would really fatigue my wrist and arm during a day of fishing. What do I need to do to balance my rods to make this more comfortable? And once done, how do I determine when they’re balanced correctly? Joe

Just realized the sponsor for this forum. I did not mean to step on any toes with my reel service comments. I live out west and the one I mentioned is closer. Sorry for the gaff?!

Thanks again! Since a Daiwa would be my first reel of that make the Fuego seems to be the ticket! Will keep the 100 and 150 in mind, as well as a new Curado for my next purchase as I modernize my reel inventory! I have the same concern about parts for my 200Bs. Luckily they are still running good after setting for a long while until just recently when I got back into fishing. I had sent them out to Dan Issac at ReelEx for service and tune. He does a real good job and his turn around is very fast! He specializes in Shimano, but will service Daiwa. Don’t think he repairs Daiwa though.