Jig Man

I'm about 250 miles south of you.

Don I do mine a little differently than stated by the other guys. I have tried the torch and heat gun and had mixed results. What I do now is hang jigs in my toaster oven and heat them for just a few minutes. I pull one out and dip it into the fluid bed. If it covers the jig and has a dull finish, I hang it in the oven and start dipping the others. I dip until the paint won't cover a jig then I close the door and heat a bit more. When that batch is painted I close up the oven and bake the heads. I don't get uneven painting or drips since I don't overheat the heads. I also don't have to clean out hook eyes as I hold the jig eye with pliers when dipping into the fluid bed. It all boils down to, use what ever method works best for you.

For what you want you could easily spend $3000 or more.

You can get the old stuff off with lacquer thinner but you should use it outside where there are no flames and plenty of fresh air.

Well good luck on that project. I live close to the BPS Nat Hdqtrs and they have noting like that. I have also been to several Cabela stores and nada.

I got mine at Lure Craft.

I fish tubes with the jig head insert, Trigged with sliding sinker and trigged with a bell sinker inside the tube. Which I use depends on the cover in the water.

I don't have the lock and stow but I have the lock and haul. I've been using it for over 2 years. There are several advantages to it for me over the old transom saver.

When the banks around here repo stuff they just set it on their lots and sell that way or send it to the local auction which does cars, rv units, and boats.

I sold all of my old Curado's and bought E7s. I don't crank much but when I did the 7s weren't appropriate. I was in a local tackle shop and stopped to look at a G5. The owner said he couldn't sell Shimanos well in his shop because of the price and if I wanted to take the last one off his hands he'd give me a good deal. I wound up getting the reel and a 6.5 M rod for cranking. The only thing I can say for this reel is, the thing out casts all of my E7s. I really have to watch what I am doing or I wind up with my cranks on the bank.

How often do you stop and fish a spot? I am a run and gunner and would get tired of moving the seats all the time.

I have never oiled mine either. What I do is use semichrome on a QTip and clean them really good then wipe everything down with a soft rag.

You may end up with a lot of browns and greens but it can be done. If they have salt be sure to stir stir stir as the salt will sink to the bottom rapidly.

If you don't want to change all the cables stick with a Merc. I prefer the DI 2 stroke over the 4 stroke. So I'll recommend that you buy a Mercury Optimax.

I looked it over and didn't see anything I wanted. I also go a flyer in today's mail. I get a couple of them each week. Today when I was in the main store getting swivel locks for A rigs, they tried to give me another catalog and even a saltwater edition if I wanted it.

In today's world, if I were buying a new bass boat I'd only look at 3: Bass Cat, Ranger, and since I haven't seen the Champion/Stratos cross I'd take a close look at them.

That is not the case with plastics. You can get into a mess with some knock off plastics.

Our conservation fisheries biologists don't support fizzing. So I made a device several years ago out of a coat hanger. My hook is rubber coated. It slips in under the gills and when the fish gets back to its original depth it easily slips out.

Go over to www.tackleunderground.com Do a search on POP molds. You will find a wealth of info.

That is exactly how I do it because I have at least 6 setups with braid.

You need: Plastisol Colorant Glitter Molds ------------ A way to melt it (hot plate or microwave) Containers to hold the melted plastisol (pans for hot plate or pyrex or nor por cups for microwave) Gloves Infrared themometer Check out places like Bear's Baits, Lure Craft, Barlow's, Jann's Net Craft, etc. Some of them have starter kits which will contain enough to get you started. Then in a few years with dozens of colorants, many molds, and more baits than you can ever use you can look back and say to yourself, "that's where I spent all those hundreds of dollard".

I have a smart craft gauge hooked to my 225 Optimax. 4000-4500 rpms gives me my best consumption rate. WOT it is 1/2 gallon per minute. So WOT is not very often.

If I were buying a used boat, I'd ask the seller for a signed document from a reputable service center that stated everything had been checked out and passed. If he wants to get the most bang for his buck he has already done it and can provide you with the paperwork.

I've done it with Curados going from 3.8 to 6.3. It cost me $30 for the gears but that was a few years ago. Call Shimano America and see what they say.

Car batteries (cranking) are designed for putting out a lot of amps for a short period of time. Deep Cycle batteries are designed to put out smaller amounts of amps over a long period of time. You state that you have like 3 car batteries laying around. Well it would be anyone's guess as to how long any of them would work for you because there is not telling what kind of shape that they are in. If one of them was a good strong fairly new bettery it might go for several hours but then again depending on their condition they might not go at all. The first thing I'd do it charge them up and check the specific gravity with a hydrometer. If you don't own one they are only a few bones. If you can get them charged up to 12.7 volts and get them to hold that for a while then they probably would work. Even if that happens, I recommend that you take a couple of them with you when you go.