Jig Man

MG makes a hydrilla buster prop that will fit that motor.

http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&pf_id=16222 I always kept it in my barn around the bull feed and in my wifes deck boat as it only got used in the summer. It will take out anything from a racoon down to a field mouse.

16/20 for all lines

I try to always maintain my batteries in top shape. I replace my trolling motor batteries every 4 years and my cranking battery every 5.

You can always build a box with a lid that allows you more storage and have it so you can lift it out if necessary. That is what I have done in my Champion with a extra seat pedestal if I ever need to take 2 people with me. It just lifts in and out and doesn't move at all when I have it in the boat.

Bar Bait

I definitely would not include my starting battery on an Optimax. It takes a lot of juice to crank them on cold days.

If your existing trolling motor battery is more than a few months old you will need to get 2 new batteries as your system is only as good as your weakest battery. Be sure to look for reserve amps. 180 or more is a must for all day use.

I only use Power Pro and have for several years. I use a bunch of backing and only enough braid to go 20 yds or so beyond my casts.

Under armour for sure, boots with 1000 or more grams of thinsulate, good gortex insulated bibs and coat and a helmet should also be considered.

If you really want to get a handle on this stuff, you will have to do some research and a lot of reading. As stated the mfg websites are good starting places. Another thing to do is once you pick a unit or two, download an emulator and get familiar with some of the key pad functions. Then go to a good place where they are sold or to a winter boat show with electronics displayed and have a hands on demonstration by a qualified sales person. But you will have to have some basic knowledge before this will mean much.

I use the BPS 8.5' microlites for FnF. They have worked fine for over 5 years and don't make me feel bad when they are in the bottom of the rod locker.

Go to the NADA guides and look up various boats and motor combinations and you can get a pretty good idea.

I don't use them. I make my own and in different sizes to match small, medium, and large plastics. They are easy to make with some 26g wire. $3 worth of wire will last you a lifetime. And yes they hold baits in place.

I like the BC ride better than Sket and I have been running a trouble free Opti for a long time.

I cut leaving a few inches just in case I have to replace the head.

I like them both. I use them both. I also mix them. Silicone is easier and faster for me to put on a jig.

I use BBS on the boat, seats, windshields, trolling motor, motor, truck dash, sonar screens and have heard that it works like RainX on the windshield of vehicles though I haven't tried that yet. I have heard lots of good about BTS but still have over 1/2 gallon of BBS to use before I try it.

I put mine in labeled clear boxes by bait type: craws, jig trailers, swim jig trailers, beavers, brush hogs, shaky worms, drop shot, etc.

Like stated it depends on how you fish. I have 843s and 844s but like my 783 better. I can use it with lighter jigs, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, tubes, jerks and cranks if I have to.

Take a popsicle stick and stir the paint as you adjust the air down to where the volcanos go away and all will be well.

Buy a blank mold and take it to a machine shop. They should be able to do anything you want, though it probably won't be cheap.

I have a light Bronzeback that is 6'9" or maybe 6'10". It is matched with a Curado and is great for those kinds of situations. I use it for grubs with 1/8 oz heads, light cranks and small jerk baits.

If a 2/0 Mustad 91768BLN is heavy enough wire for you then the 1/8 oz spot in a Poison Tail jig mold would work with an FG12 weedguard. That is one of the hooks I use in my 1/8 oz jigs.

I use the Bakudan drop shot weights. 5/8 oz is the largest cavity in my mold. I normally use 1/8 and 1/4 oz the way I fish it.