Jig Man

I don't think a 1/8 head is big enough for any fiberguard. You can use a stainless steel leader like in the pic. But I don't know of any other weed guard that will work.

Anchor opposing corners with concrete blocks or rocks. Use a bud and 2 long ropes. Put ropes on opposing corners and lower at the same time, preferrably from 2 boats. When they are resting on the bottom upright you can both let go of one end of your ropes and haul them in. Repeat until you are out of boxes.

Based on the info given I'd take the Champion: tmotor size, engine size and every Skeeter I have ever been in should have come with spurs.

Target separation is better with color for example, you can easily tell a rock from a stump. I don't ever plan to go back to black and white. It would be like buying a b/w television.

I have a piece of styrofoam that I have cut slits into. I put the hook in the slits and adjust the angle like I want it. Then I use super glue gel and let the weed guard stand vertical. It just takes a jiffy for it to dry.

Another option for you might be the Lowrance X125. It is a 480X480 pixel unit. It is especially good if you night fish because it has an amber backlight.

Well you will be at my most fav. part of BS. I love the Lead Hill area. As time get closer pm me and we'll see if I have any current info. I don't usually go there in the spring as it is 100 mph and there is lots of fishing 1/2 that distance from me. Maybe you can meet Chicken Hodges. He fishes every day for something or other. That guy has 800 brush piles in the area. (I wish I had the card out of his gps.)

Sorry I don't make exactly what you are looking for but I do have a surplus of plastics. How about some hula grubs, chunks, craws, twin tail grubs, and tubes? Do you have color preferences?

Are you going to be in a boat or strictly hiring a guide?

BUY NOW.

Since you are a kid, I wouldn't mind sending you some stuff. What would you like to try?

1. Hammered is my blade of choice on tandems whether Colorado or willow. I don't use them much on SS because I use them mostly an night and the non hammered have more cup for more noise. If you want some hammered I can pick up a few and mail them to you next time I am at the tackle shop. 2. I am not sure what you mean on the weed guard. I know about the plastic Y guard and you can't run fast enough to give me any of those because once in a while the fish strikes, you set the hook, and retrieve a jig with the hook point in the Y guard. I do use a lot of 90 stainless which is coated. It makes a good weedguard and is easy to make any lenght you want. A friend of mine who makes a lot of stuff for Stacey King put me on that a few years ago. It is cheap and easy and can be used in any size of jig head from 1/8 and up.

I haven't used the HMX but have 7 HMGs. I use them as much as my Gloomis rods.

I bought some of them for jigs and worms. I have a lot of trouble holding fish on them. I hate um. BTW: CJ if you want some tube inserts with sickle hooks, I have about 65 4/0 that I could pour up in your choice of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 oz.

I have done a lot of spoon fishing in my life. I jig it in place with suspended fish, let it fall through schools with a little occasional twitch, cast it out and hop it along the bottom and vertical jig it off the bottom. I have caught a lot of different species on spoons but don't ever remember catching any smallmouth. If you get that part figured out, please post some results.

I'd get the Stradic. Line twist can be minimized by having a reel with a good roller bearing and keeping it properly maintained. Cheap reels with roller bushings cause more line twist.

Here is a little thing I use which may be of interest to some of you FnF guys. It allows the float to be moved up and down the line adjusting its depth in a couple of seconds. The tool is home made from a bullet sinker and a piece of wire. I take 4 strands of living rubber, put the line through the bead, stick the wire through, insert the rubber and pull a double length of it through the bead and cut off the excess. The rubber holds the bead in place and the float can be snapped onto the line below the bead. You want to change it grab the bead and slide it up or down the line.

Exactly what part of BS are you referring to as the west part Lead Hill to K Dock?

I tried fireline for several applications. I didn't like it for any of them so I cut it off and put Power Pro on 5 years ago. I now have it on at least 10 setups.

GMAN I tried that with my donothin's and I could never get them to work. I sent some of them to Mark in CT. He used his little welder and made them two color. I have no idea about these things but have hundreds to the Double Ts in my goody bag from Bigfoot. But what the heck, if a hula grub will work why won't a hula tube be deadly.

I guess they would last indefinetly but they get to smelling rancid after a year or so.

OK so you can skip the hog and the gun part. ;D Here is one receipe: "Get your self some fatback with the rind attached. Cut/scrape off all the fat you can (and save it for culinary uses). To get the rest of the fat off, throw it in some simmering water for about 10 minutes. This will dissolve the rest of the fat, or at least make it soft enough to scrape off with a knife. The rind may curl a bit, so after you take it out of the water and scrap off the fat,lLay it on a cutting board or table, and place a piece of wood over it, and weight it down for a few hours. Then cut the rind into strips/shapes you want. Put them in a glass jar. Get yourself some liquid gel type food coloring. Follow the instructions on the package to dye Easter eggs (which involves hot water and vinegar), but make the coloring more concentrated. Pour it over the rinds, seal the jar, and let them sit a few days. They will adsorb most of the color, and the liquid will come out almost clear. If they rinds aren't bold/dark enough, add more coloring and let them sit a few more days. When they are dark enough, drain off the liquid, and replace wih concentrated salt water. And you're good to go."

I normally equate pressure changes to fronts coming through. Cold fronts are especially the ones that tend to change things for me. As they come in fish tend to feed. After they pass and the high pressure ridge sets in those same fish seem to disappear. However, what the really seem to be doing is moving very close to cover and holding tight. Baits have to be right in their dinner bucket for them to take them.

You need a hog, a gun, a knife, and some salt for starters. Then you will have to get some jars and some dye.

I throw 8# for cranks. I think they run better and deeper with the smaller diameter line. I have tried braid but braid and treble hooks don't seem to like each other.