garroyo130

I just realized as I was looking at my I series that you may be referring to the I series which has HG printed on the handle sideplate. Anyhow, make sure you are actually opening the palm side and adjusting the internal brakes in addition to the external dial.

Yup, that is what I'm referring to. As far as the maintenance argument, on several of my reels where the pawl cap is facing outward, it still cant be removed without some disassembly.

Picked up a clean Curado DSV yesterday on a good deal. I had fished these before but had never torn into one and I was surprised to see the number of components. Everything from the spring clicker to the anti reverse is very different from reels I've worked on. Anyhow I found it interesting that the worm gear is turned down on these and was wondering why this isn't a more accepted practice? It would seem that turning the opening down would help reduce the amount of gunk getting in there.

Short shank KVDs on the front 36s out back. Idr where but I once read that the 36s were preferable for the back as they are more likely to stick slashing fish that don't actually mouth the lure. Not sure how much truth there is to that but it stuck with me.

Overcast = Mepps black fury for me

Since this has been resurrected, I am extremely happy with my MajorCraft Finetail fiberglass area rod. Its a blast to fish and ridiculously light and sensitive. Currently paired with a less than ideal Nasci C2000S (too heavy) it still fishes great.

I likely overgrease but I use a small acid brush cut down at an angle to grease between teeth. Then follow up with a light coating with my finger as shown in the Shimano maintenance video (baitcasters only, spinning just gets brushed). I don't follow the rest of the Shimano video as I believe there are better methods but the grease part is just something I've continued to do. Some of the grease does migrate but honestly its not enough to cause issues and this is a method I am familiar and comfortable with at this point.

I'd guess the knot is slipping. When is it breaking off? On hookset? When snagged?

Its whatever you enjoy fishing. If we actually cared about catching more than anything we'd be out shocking fish, using nets, and fishing live bait.

Color is largely preference IMO. They both threw frogs. If a pro doesn't know much more than I do they are likely dipping into savings to fund their dream.

Did you try to hand line that last piece or did the rod/drag just not do their job?

I agree with things being misinterpreted as intelligence but wonder if there is any pattern in the behavior of bigger bass. For example are they more aggressive or less aggressive than average bass, do they migrate as much, do they gorge or graze? Would be interesting to find out ...

I wonder if theres a difference in formulation as that tube looks different than the one i had. I bought a two pack when they first came out with the hot sauce oil/grease and the grease came in a clear tube and was terrible as it dried to a gummy substance. Outside of the staining, the oil is one of the few i think is as good as TSI.

Going through this now. Theres really only one body of water I fish and after extensive fishing ive narrowed down my worm colors to black, black red flake, and pink. I have about a dozen bags of other colors which I will be giving away to a HS fishing club. If i fished different/new lakes I would probably hold on to more stuff but since I dont and ive narrowed my preferences down I just give away what I dont intend on using.

^ agreed I imagine the line twist is causing the decreased accuracy/distance. Changes that helped me eliminate line twist are Close bail by hand Double bearing line roller upgrade, single will do Dont reel while fish is pulling drag Although honestly i didnt experience line twist with bass size gear, it was more with UL gear casting mini trout magnets (1/200 oz jighead) and the like.

If I had a baitcasting combo capable of casting a trick worm cut down to 4" with a single 3/0 split shot I would probably be using that ... but I don't so I'll make due with spinning. I also tend to fish that rig fairly deep in summer so line capacity might be an issue with a BFS set up, but I doubt it.

Does that Ballistic still use standard oscillation or worm drive? I was surprised that in the video above a reel at that price point doesnt have worm shaft oscillation.

Is the ballistic zinc?

Im partial to hand pours although I honestly think its all in my head. Buy a jar of mend-it and fish them until they can be repaired. One of my most productive lures this summer has been a hand poured 10 inch worm cut down to 4 inches. I usually fish them until they dont hold on the hook then glue them back together with mend-it followed by a quick flash with a lighter.

Similar experience with Yamalube clean up. When i first picked up Yamalube I thought it was going to be extra thick based on the reviews on the salt side but in my experience it was closer to Cals purple than Cals tan. I use Yamalube exclusively on spinning reel gears now and baitcasters get Cals tan. My Yamalube is the squeeze tube which may be a different formulation from the tin/pail.

In my experience all grease changes color fairly quickly with use. Not sure what causes it, but after using Yamalube and Cals ive noticed the grease darkens fairly quickly.

That clip isnt there to store a thing, its there to frustrate people. Anyhow Spheros basically a carbon copy of an older Stradic. For some reason it flies under the radar while the inferior Nasci gets all the attention.

I don't think the T wing makes any difference tbh. I'm not a fan of it personally.

Ive heard the MQ are significantly harder to self-service. Any truth to that?