.RM.

I owe you for that RM. ;D Tight Lines Robert !!!

Yea.... Open your local yellow pages and check with the local tackle shops and ask who they use. Suck it up as been said here, and take the reel/s in and have them serviced. What you will most likely do oiling the external's of the reel will not help with the smoothness or the casting abilities of the reel/s... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

I have the Revo S-L, have had it for a season and a half now. The best way I found to set the reel up, is to follow the Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 article, but with a twist. Turn all brake blocks OFF, set the free spool rate first, then start with a 2 block setup on the spool brakes, as you loosen the cast control cap up for more distance, reset the blocks adding one. Works for me on my chugbugg rod... Just my .02¢ from the bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Sure no problem, I just love basket cases... Ask RedLine how long I had his infernal (ops) internal parts waiting on the first paint job he had done. Tight Lines All !!

Gr8wall, I was taught by my dad while in high school to reverse engineer. When I got into my internships at Daiwa® and Shimano® in the repair dept. in 1985, it helped to be able to layout without any trouble the reels infernal (oops) internal parts, and figure how each module laid out and what it did in the reel. Now 25 years later, each new reel is different in it's layout and the modules, which is always a learning process. I would find an old reel no one is worried about, and learn from it. I have a book that I produced awhile back that I have been revising, it covers how to take a reel apart lay it out and the whole cleaning and lubrication process, then the re-assembly. Hope to have it ready again this winter. Aaron, Well that's great, and if he has never opened up a modern LP reel, he knows what's involved and how they work and will figure it out quickly huh........ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Gr8wall, I only have this advise for you, if you don't know much about the internal workings of a BC reel then I'd suggest that you stay out of your listed reels. Unless you don't want that Viento® to ever work properly again. Stay out of the reels and have a qualified service tech do any service or upgrades for you if there are any available. The owners manual has the basic maintenance steps to follow then once a year have the tech take care of the internals. These reels you listed are not like Aarons 5600 C4 reel, there are more parts and more springs that you would lose (even the clips holding the bearings), and wind up needing spring and E-clip supplies. Just my .02¢ from the bench..

It just bad smack talk placement..... They would have done better placing the blue free offer quote down just above the graphic for the cap and shirt..

6.2:1 or 7.1:1....

Here the direct link to the article in the thread listed...This should be a good starting point... Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101.. Practice, Practice, Practice! Tight Lines!!!

Ouch, was on a great top water bite for spots, and did that using a ChugBugg caught up in some grass and shook it loose. Bait comes back aiming at the head, I duck and cover up using the right arm and wham, into the right arm funny bone past the barb... Well we park the boat head to the local med center ER, have the thing cut out of the funny bone. Go back to the lake tie the same lure on and continue the best top water day I have ever had for spots....

As flechero stated it is mostly a personal preference thing. But when I build a spinning rod for a client, I always use the reel that he/she is most comfortable with, and mostly use a slight tip heavy balance point. The anglers have found with that type of setup, they can pinpoint their casting accuracy easier. Just my .02¢ from the rod bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

6-7 or 11 lbs doesn't matter that's a fine fish, and, I'll bet it stretched the line. Tight Lines!!!

Up until a couple weeks ago (wife closed the rod in the trucks tailgate) I was using a custom built 6'6" MHF stick that I really liked. The key to good hookups is not making the hole bigger or use a stinger (trailer) hook. Don't set the hook (it's a reactionary bait), don't double set the hook, and set the drags softer to let the reel do some of the fighting. Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!

Just to link the two threads...... http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1214091129 The Tribute!!

Yup one of the nastiest wrecks I have ever seen in funny car... My son works for Hedman Hedders® and introduced me to Scott back in the 90's at OCIR, a really great guy and a heck of a champion, blew my mind. I know right now the Connie his father is probably besides himself.

We lost a great Funny Car Champion today, in the qualify runs at English Town for tomorrows race. Scott Kalitta 1962 - 2008 :'(

All I see there is a link to the Fuji reel seats that I use, don't see anything except the home page for Mudhole on the second link..Don't see a fore grip at all... :-? You say you have been ready and watching videos do you have the book recommended in that sticky by Tom Kirkman, "Rod-Building Guide" If not, you really need to get it and read the whole thing. This is were you will most likely get your best start into the Hobby! Just my builders .02¢ from the rod bench... Good Luck & Tight Wraps!

You really need to read the sticky above, "Newbies with rod building questions". Start there, and then proceed.

The best place and most timely would be from Shimano direct. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

michaelkim_9582, Don't know where you are located but I would check the local tackle shops for a service tech. Otherwise send it into the MFG and have them service the reel. From the Pflueger website: Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

bassripper2000, If you work in the area then take the reel to them and I'll bet you get a new one. Don't even open it up, just take it in like it is. I have sent reels in to them from here (had the reels marked for id) and had a new reel (no marks) within 48hrs turn around. Tight Lines!!!

Ummmmm I think The Reel Mechanic is mistaken. I have both and the Saros is a much nicer reel, IMO. :-? ;D Yup your right my mistake, the Stradic®, Thunnus®, Sustains®, or Stella® would all be the upgrades.

Sounds like the return kicker plate and return kicker arm are making the noise. Could have lost the spring.

Definitely more than I could ever use/need... As a builder I have right now a little over 100 of my own in the basement (in lengths from 5'6" to 8'), and about 25 sitting in the shop for sale ... Tight Lines!!!!

The reel has a ramp that is located at the exact bottom of the frame. As the rotor spins to the bottom (line roller side) of the frame, the ramp helps kick the bail back over. When you have the none roller (bail arm) side up even with the reel seat you in essence have the bail return kicker down on the ramp, that is why it only happens in that position. This is the nature of the beast for Shimano® spinning reels. If you tried to open the bail w the bail arm say at the 90° mark it wouldn't have any problem doing so and, if you crank a full rotation the bail would probably close with a very positive action. IMPO I don't think the reel has a problem.. Oh BTW the upgrade from Saros is Sahara.. Just my .02¢ from the bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!