.RM.

IMO...... While spinning the crank to test how long it can spin is a good test for checking the feel and effects of cranking spinning reels (the only way it can be done). If it wobbles hard, the rotor hasn't been dyno-balanced. It is NOT a good test for baitcasting reels. While it might let you in on what is smooth as far as cranking the reel it has nothing to do with how the BC reel will cast. The only test for that is, set the cast control at a zero setting (no side play), set all spool brakes to off/0. Depress the thumbar/button puts the reel into free spool, and then spin the spool and count (1001 1002 etc). The higher the free spool count, the supposedly better the casting abilities. Just my .02¢

Quinn, ghoti has a good explanation of what is happening. The original grease that is used in the one-way bearing pack is getting to thick to work (reason for the problem clearing itself when inside). I took a leason from Daiwa® and Shimano® spinning reels (their IAR's don't use grease) and, changed things with the baitcasting reels I service, and am now using a light oil swab in the one-way bearing packs (no more grease in the IAR's). You will need to fully clean the one-way bearing pack out, and, do a light oil swab then re-assemble and the problem will be corrected. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Realy why are you just letting it go like that. Your in NC and with that being the home state of some of the best custom builders in the country, I cannot imagine not being able to find someone that can cut that guide off and have it wrapped, and finished in about an hour, then all it would have to do is turn for 8 to 12 hrs to finish curing.. Pick the rod up and look in your local yellow pages for a custom builder, not a fishin tackle shop owner. Better yet check these out: Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Reuben, If it is the same reel you e-mailed about, return it...That is the hassle of buying reels in blister clam packs......Take it back...

If you were to ask the question on the RBO site you would get a resounding (NOTHING), the last thing you touch the blank with before finishing is NOTHING at all. Better luck next time....

As a builder I wouldn't recommend it, unless money is no object to you. To change that rods guide spacing, adding different style guides, plus one more, you will more than likely mess that rods action all up. To purchase those guides could run you from $5 to $10 for just the tip top then running back towards the reel face, could run upwards of $10 to $15 each guide this doesn't include the wrapping and finishing of each guide (usually runs $10per guide). The key here will be if you have a gloss coated blank and remove the guides to re-space them, you will most likely have to re-gloss the blank in the old areas the guides originally sat. A lot more work then you think.... Just my .02¢ Good Luck......

Yeah they have: SHII C564 5'6" medhvy 53 blanks left C604 6' medhvy 2 blanks left C605 6' hvy 64 blanks left SB564 5'6" spin 9 blanks left The quality Shikäri SHIII and SHX blanks are all gone........

You young'uns couldn't RUN IN PLACE!!!!!!!! 8-)

Didn't mean to be so abrupt sometimes get's away from me. But we have had this conversation a lot here. Redsyn, You can without the reel mounted hang your rods buy the tip top on a coated cup hook. It will not hurt the tip top or the shock ring. You will notice I stated WITHOUT REEL MOUNTED. The rods are only about 4.5 - 6.0 oz average, so the weight isn't a factor.Now storing a rod in a vertical rack with the reel mounted. If you hold your rod and reel up verticaly on the butt you can feel the weight of the reel trying to slightly bend the rod at the seat area, with the rod in a rack the same will happen and the rod will try to set a slight bend. I have even seen rods that were left in a tube system boat rod box, that had more twist and bends and they were all (10 of them) GLX's.. Yea having enough ceiling height to do accommodate rod length is a must. I have my rods hanging in the basement rafters and from the main shop ceiling (12') Tight Lines All!!!

Wow I have never seen so many EXPERTS with the same wrong answer.... Yes you can store your rod/s vertically from the tips, I have been doing it for years. A simple coated cup hook screwed into the ceiling/rafter will hang a rod with out reel attached with no problem to the rod or the tip top. To many anglers use vertical racks with reels mounted and get worse results than hanging them. You don't store rods with reels mounted period.... Tight Lines!!!

Visit Decal Connection.......

Looks like you have it in good shape, keep it that way, it's a discontinued reel..... That's the way Quantum builds a lot of their reels, heck some of the ones they claim multi bearing packs on are actually bushings set in the mixture.Tight Lines!!!!

Yes an old Quantum AC501CX reel foot.....

Graphite

DRat, DO NOT use anything with a paraffin in it...You use what is called a ferrule lube Quote from Trondak, Inc. makers of U-40 Ferrule Lube: Tight Lines!!!!!

Ahhh sarcastic attitude you keep up the great work and thanks.... 8-)

Alpster, Is right the AR has crapped out on you. Find some shop that services that reel, or send it back to the manufacturer. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Distribution Center Chase Foster chase@americantackle.us American Tackle Company 400 Kane Ct, Suite 100 Oviedo, FL 32765 Yup thats called the Distribution Center in the same building, thats because Amercian Tackle doesn't sell retail..... Here are the actual offices of the company.... East Coast Office Joe Meehan joe@americantackle.us American Tackle Company 44 Nauset Rd. West Yarmouth, MA 02673 West Coast Office Darrin Heim darrin@americantackle.us American Tackle Company 5016 Old Mill Road Port Angeles, WA 98362

avid, Yea that's my favorite blade on all my spinnerbaits I build, either singles or tandems and always a deep cut.. Can't say have only used the Rattel Backs DB marketed long agoTight Lines!!!!

God I hope nobody uses the grease and oils like the factories do. They use it to hold the parts in place, while on the assembly line, and then add enough for moisture protection while in transit. I have yet to see one come from the factory, and actually be as smooth out of the box, as when I get don't with it. With the exception of the Red Dye crap you mentioned.. Learn the proper way of maintaining your reels and it doesn't matter what reel oil or grease you use, Ardent, Cals, Lithium777, Shimano, Daiwa, mine, etc.. Tight Lines!!!!

Were did you get that piece of info, please provide a link to it....

Welcome to your new addiction Good Luck and Keep Us Posted.....

Actually any target distance that you can make accurately, and still make good solid hooksets (maybe 25-30yds)... IMPO to long of a cast does result in a lack of accuracy, and a lot of missed hook sets. My point is quit chasing noises half a pond away.....

ghost, Even splitting the rear grip, you will need to measure were you want the heal of the grip (the 3-3.5" of cork coming from the seat) to end, then you need to figure the size of the fighting butt your going to make (Usually about 2 - 2.5" long from butt cap)... Now mark every cork ring in between with an BIG DARK MARK. This is cork you cut away, also making sure you don't nick/cut the blank or again your done. When the cork has been cut away, clean up the old epoxy and the newly exposed blank. Now you can take the new fighting butt and add a slight tapper toward the center of the split, and repeat on the heal of the grip. Now you have your split grip. Hope that helps some.....