Tatulatard

I like it for weightless plastics, top waters and jerkbaits. If top waters aren't your thing then 12lb flouro on a something like like a tatula sv or other reel with a light weight spool and you are set. I target cast 1/7 oz neds, weightless flukes, senkos and other weightless rigged plastics in the 4 to 5 inch range. Early in the season it pulls double duty as a jerkbait rod.

I think as long as you avoid stiff lines and cast long casting baits with it then you should be fine. The complaints seem to come from flouro line use with baits that catch the wind or tumble on the cast. Also these aren't supposed to be good at lob casting. You need to send them proper on the cast with some effort and a high release point. I'd be throwing frogs on braid or tail weighted topwaters on mono.

Its really happy throwing 3/4oz and up to 3. A rigs, big super deep cranks, big topwaters, swimbaits and beast hook paddle tails.

Zillion hd. The hlc reels are fast and fast spools don't play well with heavy plastic lines or baits that catch the wind. They are for small dense baits bomb casting with braid and reports I have read on people using the steez hlc with flouro have been bad. The reel just backlashes too much. The braking curve of the hd would be a better reel for you.

Yep, thats a tall order for a reel let alone rod. That's why my recommendation would be an all around heavy or heavy plus rod on a high cap big spool low pro reel with a long handle and a medium ipt. A tatula 150 7:1 and some sort of flipping and swimbait rod that can handle frogs like a bass x 710H to plug a forum sponsor. 7:1 seems fast but that long handle and 34 mil spool should keep the line recovery down to handle moving baits. The aluminum frame and handle side plate also keeps the drive train aligned, smooth and low effort cranking under load.

Tatula 150. 7:1

Sell the box.

To adjust for different spool lengths do to manufacturing tolerances or when spool swapping. Also total newbies may need some spool tension as training wheels. This isn't a zero adjust or even a diawa thing. All my reels have basically no spool tension. I set them that way and never touch the knob again.

No, you need tatula gears. The problem could also be a bearing on the pinion gear or crank shaft. You would need to remove them and inspect or just replace them as a service item.

You are correct. An 80 mill vs a 120 mill handle has a noticeable impact on retrieve. IPT (inches per turn) stays the same but the number of turn per minute decrease with increased handle length. The effect is negligible on a small change in length but noticeable on a large change. Something like a 20+ mil difference is certainly noticeable but a 5 mil change isn't.

The coastal 200 is the old tatula like the current tatula 200. Its the are size as the tatula 150 but gets a larger diameter and deeper spool without magZ. They are big old solid reels that hold up well.

The Tatula 150 is the old big Tatula with new paint. The coastal 150 is a Tatula 100 with new paint and deep SV spool. Very different reels in size and ergonomics. Buy based on what platform the reel is and not any numbering like "150" to determine size.

Shallow light weight spool for easier start up and increased control. Braking that is free but can be turned up to skip is a big bonus.

Same size.

Bass anglers are one of the more frequent anglers to complain of gears getting rough. We wind under load and wind fish in as a normal thing instead of using the rod. We also wind in high resistance baits on high gear ratios frequently. Both contribute to a reel losing the smooth feeling it once had when new. This loss of smoothness is what "gears going bad" means rather than reels locking up.

I don't want hard gears. That's a one way ticket to buzz town. Give me soft gears with big teeth and grease.

Sounds like you're a great skipper rather than the reel being a great skipper. I considered myself a good skipper because I do it all the time with my sv reels. I took my slx mgl out and it was an eye opener. Initially I made great skips and was questioning the need for sv spools until I wasn't make great skips anymore. I apparently have the habit of forcing a skip and throwing a bait out there a bad angle to force a cast as I am being blown past a spot on my kayak or my paddle in my lap will get in the way and I'll make a bad skip with a bad angle. Bad skips look funny but still skip backlash free with my sv tatulas. Not the case with mgl. I absolutely get severely punished for a bad skip with mgl spools with svs brakes. I ended up having to really think through every skip instead of just hammering the bank with an sv reel with my brain off. Eventually I blew the spool up beyond my ability to dig it out and that was the end of it. Too much risk for no reward for me to want to continue.

Yeah I thought this one was the same reel as a bass pro reel but it had a magnetic brake, zpi spool and was $300.

Do you skip with spool tension of set it so there is a tiny bit of play?

What is your brake setting on the external dial? There is an external dial for the centrifugal race and no amount of internal brakes on is going to help if the dial is set to zero.

Skipping with a Shimano. Just the thought of this makes me anxious. Lots of spool tension would be my starting point. Brakes to max.

Adjust the brake dial.

Braid is sticking to itself and making noise as it comes apart. Some of the really cheap braids will do this. It will soften with use.

See the post below yours. If that is an impass then go to tacklewarhouse and buy a tatula flip and pitch for full retail plus tip.

You lift the back of the thumb bar up with the tip of your thumb on every daiwa I own and it trips the clutch. This is not unique to the flip and pitch.