MontanaBasser

The latter. If you're like us and have your ear to the ground all the time these sales are underwhelming.

Working the kinks out of one of his kids rods? My son fishes lefty and I've been doing a lot of crossover casting as a result. Maybe this is like that?

Moondog bait Co has some dice that are a little less expensive. I believe they are expensive because they have to thread the skirting through the bait by hand. I've found that the cost makes me reach for other lures.

Pocket lures. No tackle box needed. For a full outing, it wouldn't be enough, but when I only have a few minutes to kill between things it's great.

I've come to really like these thin EVA foam "fly boxes". They're roughly the same dimensions as a 3700 but half as thick as a thin 3700. Spoons, inline spinners, rigged jigs and other single hook baits all stay put. I write TOP on the top edge and store them stacked vertically like books. I do a lot of finesse fishing and these things have saved me inches of space. (That I fill with more lures!) Aventik Collection Fly Box Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRWXS1L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I found a company that makes a bunch of different 3 ring binder pages of pockets. They have pages with 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 and 10 pockets among other things. Thus far it's been great. www.storesmart.com I realized the major drawback of the soft plastics binder is the soft plastics themselves. They're too large and thick to work well in a book format. Likewise with hook wallets - great in principle but too small in practice. I started looking for an extra large hook wallet and ended up with this. It has a couple zipper pockets that are good for new stuff in the package and go-back tackle. I am not known for being an organized person so this is a feat for me. It doesn't work for walking the bank or in a kayak, but I just pick what I'll need for those situations and hang it on a safety pin. Then, the safety pin goes in one small section of the pocket box. I still need to order a VCI emitter to ward off rust.

After going through a few different options, I came up with this. The OCD binder:

I had a deer hit my car last winter. I didn't hit the deer, it ran into my window. Dumb dumb animals.

My boys had a half day today for the last day. I picked them up at 12:30 and by 1:15 my kindergartner had chopped up a full pack of Keitech with scissors. It may be a loonng summer.

I like them with one exception. They don't pair well with the Core Tackle scamper hook. I tried for about 10 minutes last week and all I got was a mangled Flush. I like them rigged on Owner Flashy swimmers and as trailers

Of all the solutions listed here, I like heat shrink the best. However, I would cover the eye, shrink, and then poke a hole.

I haven't fished it, but I remember that the social map from C-Map genesis had perfect bathymetry and bottom composition for that body of water. https://www.genesismaps.com/SocialMap/Index?mwID=996947

Opinions on St Croix musky rods?

They make it such a pain to return anything. Why do I need a paper receipt when I give you my phone number every transaction? It's not the financial cost that bothers me, it's the waste.

You don't have a problem with the eye sealing shut? I'm probably making a mountain of a mole hill, but I love learning from others.

I really like "fused eye" hooks like the VMC Redline series for drop shots. I'm making my own #8-12 straight shank drop shot hooks and I'd like to recreate that effect. I have head cement, a vise and thread already involved. How can I insure that the eye stays open while also sealing the bight?

I really like "fused eye" hooks like the VMC Redline series for drop shots. I'm making my own #8-12 straight shank drop shot hooks and I'd like to recreate that effect. I have head cement, a vise and thread already involved. How can I insure that the eye stays open while also sealing the bight?

Copper State Is having a 20% off gift card sale. Functionally 20% off the stuff they can't discount because of MAP.

I was just thinking about this yesterday. My Alumacraft is on 2" slotted posts and I don't like it. To move the main seats you have to squeeze a collar down at the base. But, squeezing the collar hard enough while still having a good way to pull it out is a PITA. I'm considering swapping bases. Has anyone done that? They look like there's one for one replacements to all the plates.

They're probably Rock Bass https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_bass

My vehicle isn't a common target and it's not a nice vehicle. A cage for my catalytic converter on the other hand...

May I ask why?

How long is that? I'm putting it on a 21ft Alumacraft Competitor If this was purely a fishing boat, I'd be right there with you. But, if that were the case, my wife probably wouldn't be right here with me. She has been very understanding of my midlife crisis purchase thus far. I'd like to keep it that way.

I used the search and was surprised I didn't find a thread about Bimini tops. My boat will be a family run about as much as it will fish. After the first full day on the water, it's clear that a Bimini is needed. But, I don't know enough to make a smart choice. My instinct is to get a 54" high, 4 bow and 10' long if I can find it. But, at 54" do I need partial side walls? Do you leave your Bimini installed all the time? When it's down, do you put it in the back or in front of the windshield? How hard is it to fish around? What brand? What brand of fabric? Is Sunbrella worth it? I have Brocraft mounting blocks that fit my rails.

I've been doing well with Northland thumper underspins with a small paddle tail on it.