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bowtech_182

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Everything posted by bowtech_182

  1. I would try to find a used Avid or buy a new powell. 7' MHF/XF would be my first choice with a 6'6" MHF/XF the second
  2. I have heard the Daiichi death traps are the best, but they run about $1 per hook. I personally use Owner trebles on my crankbaits
  3. Personally I would get an Abu Garcia Pro-max or a BPS extreme if you are looking to buy new. Maybe a used Revo S or Citica if buying used. Burley had a Revo S in the classifieds a few days ago for $70.
  4. I don't think you can go wrong starting with a Batson Rx7 blank. My first rod was a RX7.Personally I would use nothing lower than Hardloy guides, but Alconites are preferred. I noticed that you are listing kit prices that are $25 more than the blank price. Where are you getting that number because it seems a little low. For a first rod you will need cork, thread, epoxy, finish, reel seat guides and a tip top. That is not counting other things such are reamers and mixing cups, etc. For my first build I had almost $80 worth of stuff added to the the $42 blank
  5. Fishsticks4u, Acidrod.com and Utmost enterprises all have a good selection of Batson blanks. I ordered my Batson blank from Fishsticks4u and everything went alright.
  6. That is the point that I am at right now. I love my Revo SX and would like to add to the Revo family, but the Citica has some mysterious spell on me that is making me want to buy one. ;D My only real concern is casting distance on 1/4oz crankbaits. That is what I am really concerned about.
  7. I am getting an new reel later this week with my Academy gift cards and am having the hardest time deciding between the Citica E and Revo S for a shallow crank reel (1/4-1/2 oz). I know both are great reels and I really can't go wrong either way.I must have read 1000 topics just like this one. I still can't decide which one to get.
  8. I downloaded quicktime a while back to watch your shows and the shows still don't play when I press the links.
  9. Is there any way I can watch your shows without quicktime?
  10. If the rod does break, you can use the Gold star warranty program even if the modifications caused the failure. I am getting ready to split my Avid's grip remove the foregrip and spiral wrap it.
  11. I believe nothing beats a Benelli. The only way you could get my M1super90 away from me would be to give me an M2 comfortech. If you go pump I prefer the Winchester speedpumps over an 870.
  12. Sometimes my 3 1/2 yr old son can be oh so brutally honest. It can be rather amusing at times.
  13. How do you like the ACS seat vs the regular ECS seat? I was thinking about trying an ACS on my next build
  14. The only handle that I have made I made out of Lamar exotic burl. Laguana with burnt accents. I plan on using ONLY burl from this point on.
  15. I really like the H20 express topwaters.
  16. You might try going to Lowe's in the plumbing section. Look at the bulk tubing section. there is some clear tubing that may be cut up to work.
  17. I do major structural repair/fatigue life extension overhauls on US Navy/US Customs surveillance aircraft. They routinely fly around tracking Mastadons. ;D
  18. I Looked at all the cranking rods out there. If I was going to buy a factory rod it would be either a Crucial or a Powell, both of which are out of your price range. I ended up building a cranking rod with a Batson 7'0" MM and can not say enough good things about it. You could get the same rod built for your $125 budget
  19. The accord is my wifes. I pull it with a 1992 civic with no issues. I do live 2 miles from the lake though. I really don't know how much I have in the boat but all my paint and aluminum was free along with all the sealant that used on the floor, so it was a lot cheaper that it could have been Personally I would not pay $500 for another v-hull. I would much rather have a flat bottom and would put the money towards that. My intention was flat bottom until I came across this for $125
  20. I will also second what Flechero says about a good belt and a holster. If you are going to carry you really need a REAL gunbelt. There is a difference between a belt and a gunbelt. It iis all about stiffness and lateral stability. I destroyed 3 regular belts in 2 years. 2 years ago I bought a Gunners Alley gunbelt and it is still going strong. Well worth the $50-70. For holsters check out the Comp-tac line. I can carry my G26 in a CTAC iwith a tucked in t-shirt with 0 worries about being spotted
  21. That information is totally false. The Glock design has 3 integral safeties built into it with the 4th and most important being in between your ears. I carry a Glock 26 in the summer and a 19 in the winter. I really liked the USP pistols that FOurbizz posted until I shot them. They had a slightly high natural point of aim for me which was very evident when I shot a couple IDPA matches with one. THey are super nice pistols though. You would also be well served to check out the Sig pistols, take a look at the P239. Andy
  22. That just got some Ideas flowing. Can you post or PM some details for your setup
  23. You guys have it rough. Here is SC with my CWP, the dealer does not even have to call NICS for a background check. I Fill out the form and walk out the door. For $500 I would highly recommend a Glock
  24. I am indecisive on what colors to wrap the guide on my first rod build. What colors do you like as a main wrap with a small trim band?
  25. Burl came today. Thanks As for using drywall tape I have to either put the arbor in the reel seat before I mount the reel seat. How would that work? I think I might use a burl ring or just pack 1/2-1" of the Lamar epoxy in the cavity after I mount the reelseat

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