bowtech_182

I received my first build components today. I did not order an arbor for the front of my ECS seat because everyone But Reelmech told me I would not need one( I need to listen to everything RM tells me). Since I am not doing a foregrip I need some sort of arbor to fill the front gap. Masking or drywall tape is not an option. What could I use as an arbor without having to place another order for a $.50 part and another 3 day delay.

I am not going to state the vendor but I have heard nothing but good about them. The blank had to be ordered from Batson as they were out of stock. what gets me is that the vendor did not tell me this until I emailed them a week after the order. It was supposed to have shipped friday, but I didn't get the shipping email like I was told I should. I am starting to regret I did not order the St.Croix from Mudhole :'(

Maybe I will luck out and the spine will be the straight side That is if my blank/guides ever arrive. I ordered 10 days ago and still don't even know if they have shipped yet >

After reading so many opinions on whether to build on the spine of a rod or not I am thinking about following Tom Kirkman's advice and building on the straightest axis. Who here builds their rods on the spine vs straightest axis. I am mostly talking about spiral wrapped casting rods, as I have not even begun to research spinning rods.

Both Jann's Netcraft and mudhole have Fuji ACS seats.

You could probably work something out with this www.sollercomposites.com

What do you think about Batson Rainshadow rx7 blanks. I have been looking at the 70 MM for $45 versus my fist choice, the SCIII 7' MM. Are they good blanks?

I would try the Bomber deep flat A. I like the silver flash color.

For rod building what do kind of epoxy do you prefer? Do you like it thicker or thinner? I am torn between the flex-coat or thicker epoxies like the Threadmaster or RodBond. What are the advantages or disadvantages of each type when bonding cork rings, grips and reel seats?

Fishsticks4you has Lamar burl for $.85 for regular and $1.25 for laguna which I think is my favorite. It is hard to tell from the pictures. That is a far cry for $2-3 a ring for better grade cork. Are you familiar with Mudholes burl which sells for $.70 a ring?

What are the advantages to making split grips exclusively out of burl cork? Is it more durable, lighter? Burl cork seems to be significantly cheaper than real cork in any decent grade.

I have spent many hours in the last two weeks scouring Mudholes catalog and website. I just don't want to order anything until I order my blank, seat and guides, etc and make one large purchase.

I will try it without thinning.I wanted the lite formula, but am very limited to what I can find locally. Academy carries only a few products and that is the only local store that has rodbuilding supples

The main reason that I was going to use the BPS rod as a test piece is because most of the finish around the wraps has lifted from the blank and water has penetrated under the finish. I could either rewrap regular or spiral to fix it. There will be very little finish scraping involved. I have picked up a #8 single foot Hardloy to put in between the first and second guides. I am going to practice with that for a while on an arrow shaft and then go to town on the extreme. Do you guys thin your first coat of finish at all? I have read some people cut the epoxy with 5-10% acetone or denatured alcohol on the first coat.

My bow making stuff is unistrut based so it is modular by design. I will just make thread tensioners and rod supports/drying head that bolt into my existing base. I will add some pics as soon as I get a motor and build it. I read on another forum that I need to turn all the guides but the stripper 180 and add a small fly guide between the first and second as the bumper guide. Do you do that, or use the spacing that I will have if I use my second guide as a bumper, which is currently probably a sz 10 double foot. Thanks for the help

Any boat that is used on public waters with any sort of motor or trolling motor in SC Must have a current title/registration. boat trailers are not titled/registered

Just the person I was hoping to reply I wanted to use the same locations because of the damage to the rod finish. I will take extra care to make the the blank is smooth before I rewrap. I am not so concerned about wrapping the guide and I have made and served several bowstings, which has a the same basic principles. I am actually going to convert my bowstring jig into a rod dryer, eventually a wrapper if I take to the hobby. I am more concerned about applying the flex-coat to the wraps and making that look good before I try it on a new SCIII blank. Do you use high or low build? Thanks for the advice

I want to do a little guide wrapping practice before I attempt to build my own rods. I have a BPS Extreme 6'10"MH that I though I would convert to spiral wrapped guides. It has 9+1 guides. In order to do bumper style is it as easy as taking the second guide and moving it to 90degrees in the same spot and moving all other guides to 180out in their same spots?

How do you figure out what size reel seat to purchase for a specific blank without having the blank in hand. For example a SCIII 7'MM with an ECS seat

Is that not what hospitals are there for? That could be one nasty infection.

I take them all off and use Norman speed clips. If I tie directly to he bait , then I use a split-ring.

Hey Roadwarrior that looks an awful lot like a San Diego Jam that you posted.

I looked those up on your recommendation. A dollar a hook is a little steep especially considering I would have to order them and pay shipping. What is the second choice?

I am looking for some recommendations for some replacemnt treble hooks for lipless and regular crankbaits. Gamakatsu or Mustad, etc. How abut EWG styles vs regular. I have been looking at the Mustad triplegrips.

I can guarantee that his 30 lb endura has 14 gauge wiring as mine does also. Its just a puny 30lb TM Personally, I would use at least 10 gauge for an extension but would feel comfortable using 12 gauge for up to 5 ft of extension. ' I'm pretty sure that my powerdrive 40 was 10 gauge. I used 4 gauge for the 15 ft extension. You really can't go too big within reason, but too small can be very dangerous.