Carolina Rig Tips

[wormfishin]

Great  stuff..

This is the best site I've found for info. good job..

I started using  the C rig last year but I have been using A small bullet

weight 1/4 oz or 1/2 oz  and I use tubes most of the time.

This works well for me when the bite is slow.

I do go 3/4 or 1 oz in water over 15 ft.

[gloomis7]

What a great thread! This was very informative for me, someone who has been skeptical about trying the C-rig. After reading all of this I definitly will give it a shot. I do have one question I don't think has been asked yet..When searching for a good spot to throw a c-rig is having a really good graph important? I have an older boat and I haven't updated my electronics. They work but I have a hard time finding slopes and humps and dropoff's. Is there something I'm just not seeing when I'm trying to read my graph? :-?

[manny]

I rarely fish a carolina rig so i'm no expert, but i didn't hear any mention of the berkley beast? does anyone ever use this bait on a carolina rig?

[dukeintex]

Hi

I'm new here, so if this has been covered elsewhere, please let me know.

Do most of you use a different lb test for your leader than you use for your regular line? And if you do, do you use braid, fluoro, or mono?

Thanks

[flechero]

Hi

I'm new here, so if this has been covered elsewhere, please let me know.

Do most of you use a different lb test for your leader than you use for your regular line? And if you do, do you use braid, fluoro, or mono?

Thanks

Duke,

Welcome to BassResource.com!

In answer to the question:  most times I (and I think it's safe to say most people) use a lighter leader than mainline.  I like a heavy mainline because I fish it in both timber and rocky areas.  The leader can be changed frequently based on water conditions. (clearer water gets a lighter or fluoro leader)  As an example, right now I have 17# XT as a mainline (which is like 20# or 25# in other brands) but I use a 12# or 14# leader most of the time.  If I were fishing in water that was more stained or in heavier cover I wouldn't hesitate to use a heavier leader... but if I was expecting to need a leader that heavy I would spool up a heavier mainline before I went.

I use mostly mono as leader... if I fish real clear water I'll use fluoro or a blend.    

[Shadcranker]

The Rig is my # 1 confidence bait from Spring through late Summer. it's a great way to cover water, feel what's on the bottom, but still offer a fairly finesse type of bait.

A couple of tips:

1. Go with a lighter weight if you're hanging up in rocks. If I'm fishing chunk rock in 12 ft or less, I will use a 1/2 oz weight. The lighter weight seems not to hang up as badly.

2. Use an offset, wide gap hook. My missed fish went way down by using it.

3. Use a shorter leader than most use. I usually go with 12-18". This reduces the amount of line you have to move to set the hook.

4. To add sensitivity, use braid on the main line and a mono or flouro leader. The braid will transmit the feel of the sinker much better.

5. Use a lizard around the spawn, and then switch to a centipede or worm post spawn. A shad colored centipede is deadly when the fish move out to their summertime spots, especially if they're feeding on shad.

[sal669]

EXCELLENT thread!!!

I c-rigged a couple times but I kind'a "set it aside and forgot about it".When I tried it with a baitcaster it was a mess. I switched to a spinning outfit with 20lb power pro ,1/2oz egg sinker, bead, swivel, 3ft leader and gammy egw 2/0 hook with lizard, 6" worm or fluke with some results. I was feeling the bite but when setting the hook, the fish was mostly gone. might this be because I kept the line tight (to feel the bite), with no slack in it ???

I tryed Berkley Gulp 6' worm and I cought more catfish than bass. Did this happend to any of you, guys ???

I'll try c-rigging again later this year, 'cause I can't do it through a couple of inches of ice :-/. And now I have a lot of new stuff to try out.

Thax for all info, Alex

[slinging southpaw]

Something that happened 3 times today.......I broke 20 pound braid above the weight. I would feel..... tap, tap, weight......... set the hook.....only to see slack line and no more lure. Each time I was pretty sure there was a fish on the other end.

Any idea why this is happening? Is it actually a fish taking the lure and heading for structure but when I set the hook the line rubs up against a rock and breaks? I couldn't figure it out.

Should I try a different type of line (other than braid), a different brand of line or should I go up in lbs to a 30, 40, etc.? Also, anyone use high vis line like Fireline so that they can visually detect strikes easier?

PS - great posts, I've learned a lot already. I think I'm setting the hook too hard vs. a sweeping motion.

The problem your having with braid is a problem I've seen a lot. Braid simply cuts like paper on rocks. I've had the same problem with 40# Braid and know others that have also. It's perfect for C-rigging on mud, but rock makes the stuff "evaporate".  :'(

[tuxdaddy]

I posted this question in the general bass area but I'll ask here as well...

Anyone ever try c-rigs on rivers?? If so, how did you fare with it, and what'd you have to do different ??

Thanks

Tux

[jasone]

Electronics are CRUCIAL!!

You can use any good fishfinder.  You will also need at least two of the orange buoy markers.  Find a ledge or hump on your contour map.  Use GPS or line up landmarks from your map to get the general idea.  Idle over the rough spot until you find the depth of the upper feature.  By that I mean if its a hump, find the hump, a ledge, find the top of it.

Your fishfinder will read steady then all of a sudden the numbers will start falling.  It is imperative that you made your buoys ready before then.  When the numbers start falling toss one out the side.  Coast down from your first buoy and repeat.  I try to move at least 50 yards from the first one.  You can lay as many as you want but two or three usually does it for me.  

Make long casts past the buoys and drag well past them.  

As you drag, feel the bottom.  If there is nothing but silt there you may be in a less than ideal place.  Ideal places have rocks on top and a brushpile either on top or the bottom.  When you bump a rock or brush, pause and reel in all slack.  You will get a lot of bites when the rig makes contact.  

Sorry if all this has been covered.  For most people this is just drivel but when you live on a Ledge lake you must know how to do this.

J

[SC bass hack]

I have been fishing a crig for about 15 years.  Mostly on GA reservoirs and now I live in SC and fish Lake Greenwood.  The crig is my favorite way to fish and here are my reasons:

It's generally slow and very relaxing.  My friends will cast their baits 10 times to my one, I figure between the two of us we're covering the water.

It is pretty consistent, I feel that if there are bass in the water, I'll catch a couple of them.

You can learn a lake very quickly.

A strike is almost as fun as a topwater strike.

Some are having trouble casting, remember to cast the weight, not the worm/hook.  I use a baitcast reel, can't get a spinning rod to cast well with this rig and I also like to control the cast with my thumb.

[colttackle]

hello..i am a beginner bass fisherman..normally i only use a weightless berkley powerbait/gulp sinking minnow,occasional crankbait, and night fishing a frog jitterbug. I go in my friend's lake its about an acre..but we only go on the shore..can you use the c-rig on shore..and what r some good hints for shoreline crigging..and would the c-rig work well with the berkley powerworm and gulp sinking minnow?

thanks for any help

[BassHunter69]

ive fished the c rig many times in my 30 odd years of fishing. i like the 1 oz weight with plactic bead then the double swival from there i use a 3 foot leader minimum with an owner hook.

the plastic baits i prefer are made by strike king one that works great for me is the strike kings pumpkin finesse worm with chartruse tail which works great in stained water for me, in muddy water i like the strike kings black lizard with red flakes, but this also works great in stained water. in clear water i love using the 6 inch pearl shad with silver flakes, another i use is the chartruse frog by strike king. all these baits are indorsed by shaw grigsby i belive. then again i also use the orginal floating worm the pumpkin seed colors great,also i have used the bubble gum floating worm, and the white floating worm.

my rod action is the mh ugly stik with a dawia 1600 which was made in the 90's since that can handle 15 lb line. i tend to use cajun line partcularly the red cast for this tactic, but if i want to go into heavy cover or trees i like the ugly braid. i dont use any line lower then the 14 lb test. ive found the cajun line 14 lb test to be as strong as 20 lb mono in my experince.

[BassHunter69]

oh in refering to the 1st post on electronics for bank or peir fishing i use the hummingbird rss 25 smart cast fishfinder. i tend to like the one you attact to your pole rather then the watch .

[blackrose55x]

How shallow can the water be to successfully use a c-rig? And does clarity of water matter?

[BassHunter69]

yes you can use the c rig off the bank as a matter of fact i have many , times done so

hello..i am a beginner bass fisherman..normally i only use a weightless berkley powerbait/gulp sinking minnow,occasional crankbait, and night fishing a frog jitterbug. I go in my friend's lake its about an acre..but we only go on the shore..can you use the c-rig on shore..and what r some good hints for shoreline crigging..and would the c-rig work well with the berkley powerworm and gulp sinking minnow?

thanks for any help

[BassHunter69]

ive caught bass as shallow as 2 feet deep for extreme shallow water i like using the worm or lizard weightless however thats been a bigger producer for me, however i feel the c rig works best in deeper water.

How shallow can the water be to successfully use a c-rig? And does clarity of water matter?

[kybassangler]

A guide turned me onto a Carolina Keeper. You avoid using a swivel and 3 knots. It is basically a round piece of hard plastic you thread on your line. When you squeeze it with pliers, it opens enough to slide it up/down your line. You put your weight above the keeper.

It allows for real easy changing of leader lengths. If you fish in heavy cover/structure, use 2. Bass pro has them.

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=23166&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults

this is the link for the product on bass pro's web site.

good luck

Larry

I'll second that on the keeper, I have used it and had success. And if you chew your line up on rocks the only thing you really have to retie is your hook. They are cheap and worth the money. Also check out the bullt floaters at BPS puts a little more action in it.

[kybassangler]

ok after the cast how do u work the c-rig?

pull rod tip up and then drop it back down take up the slack. then repeat. experiment with the speed Mr. bass will tell ya what he wants.

[Jimzee]

Very informative read.  One of the best threads that I have read on this site.  Thanks to all.

[OldAngler]

Quote

What are the pros and cons of a C-rig vs,

1) split shot rig

2) drop shot rig

??

A split shot is just a light weight and maybe mini C-rig. If C-Rigs work when the bit is tough, then consider trying a drop shot rig when the bit is impossible. Use hand poured worms.

Drop-shot is a finesse technique but suspends the bait above the bottom and that is a killer presentation. I'm noticed that if you're catching a bunch of little ones on on drop-shot then throw in with a c-rig big bait. Like a Zoom Brush Hog. 

[smokin_joe]

             Nick, rigging is one of my favorite things to do ...Here in Ohio in the summertime it is one of the most consistant producing technics I use...Here are some things I have learned and maybe they will help you...7ft. med/heavy baitcasting rod or better...a pretty fast reel 6:2:1 ....use steel or brass weights, you'll get a better feel of the bottom...I always use a brass clacker and atleast and 8mm bead before my weight in that order ...the clacker i dont believe produces much of a difference in strikes, but it sure saves wear and tear on your knot ....now pick a soft plastic any soft plastic lure and a wide gap hook to match ....my favs are 4"zellamanders in tradtional pumpkin/greenpumpkin...6"mossy pumpkin zoom lizards and 4"centepedes ....

now for the tricky part line and leader length ....

            I find that the lighter the line i can use the more fish I catch and i use 1/2 oz sinker in 5-10ft of water and 3/4oz in anything over 10 foot...you may need to make adjustments according to cover...same goes with leader line...the length of your leader may need to be shortened  depending on whats on the bottom....just like with any technic let the fish tell you how they want it....I find that 15-17lb test monofilament for main line and a 10lb leader line of 12 to 18" in length is my most productive... However...you may need to bump the leader line up if the terrain is rough, as well as going up to 20lb test for your main line....the longer your leader line is the slower your lure moves, the shorter it is the faster it moves...the idea is to make a lil chase scene ...try to keep contact with the bottom or the cover at all times with the sinker ...dragging it straight toward you much like you would a texas rigged worm...watch your line just like with jig and worm fishing ...sometimes they grab the sinker lol..when that happens try to finish the cast letting your lure settle back down in the same general area of the strike....This is a great follow up bait for deep diving crankbaits when you have one come loose on you and an awesome "dog days of summer" bait....Many days i have had a fish come off on a crank bait and followed it up with the rig, never to pick the crank bait up again for the rest of the day....I throw it it anywhere and everywhere I wud throw a crank bait that dives 5 feet or better ...hope this helps and I truly hope you catch a lot of good ones with it...It takes a time or 2 to get used to it , but once you do it is something that you will always want to have tied on   best wishes  

[BackOnTheWater]

I use a Crig all year and in any depth, but prefer the Trig for beating shallow-water banks. I've been using them for over 20 years.

I have tried everything. Different weights (type and weight), a variety of beads (makeup and size), as well as just about every kind of plastic and hard lure I could think of.

I use (from top to bottom) a  baitcaster w/ 12 lb mono, and 7 ft MH graphite rod, a brass finesse weight, a metal bead, a brass clacker, a glass bead, another clacker, a swivel, leader, and lure. I almost ALWAYS use a pre-rigged worm that has 2 smaller hooks w/ weed guards made of the same soft plastic as the worm that you actually stick the barb of the hook into. This is almost like cheating, because by the time that you feel the fish, he's already hooked. The sweeping hookset just plants them better. I don't miss the fish that hit, and never hang up with the protected hooks. We used to call them "do-nothing worms" back in the day, because that's all you have to do to catch fish...nothing. They can be found at touchdownlures.com...try 'em, you'll LOVE them.

My method of retrieve is different than most...I will also work my Trig in a similar fashion. I cast, take up slack, and instead of sweeping the rod I will pop the rod-tip a few times, rattling the brass-N-glass, and imparting a jerking action on the worm. Take up slack and repeat back to the boat. The lure does not move as far as with a rod sweep, and the jerking action and clacking really drives 'em crazy.

[Jake P]

this may be a dumb question but what are the beads for?

[roadwarrior]

Mostly to protect the knot, but beads will also "click" when they get knocked around or hit a rock.