I took my Daiwa Tatula CT apart and when putting back together, I think I applied too much torque to the set plate screw that runs through the brake dial on the side plate and into the body of the frame. The hole looks completely smooth, and the screw looks just fine. I don't want to tap for a bigger bolt, but I was thinking about putting in some loctite or jb weld on the bolt, buttoning it up, letting it cure, and calling it a day. Any better ideas? I just got this reel in the later part of June, so this is beyond frustrating.

The plastic composite side-plate can be ordered. If you're good at reel building, it's quite doable. Installing the magnet assembly is the trickiest part. I've done it.

 

Our sponsor here,  Delaware Valley Tackle, may come in handy.

 

 I wouldn't try a repair. It'll only extend your frustration.

 

 

Karl

10 minutes ago, diehardbassfishing said:

The plastic composite side-plate can be ordered. If you're good at reel building, it's quite doable. Installing the magnet assembly is the trickiest part. I've done it.

 

Our sponsor here,  Delaware Valley Tackle, may come in handy.

 

 I wouldn't try a repair. It'll only extend your frustration.

 

 

Karl

Thanks, but the problem is with the frame of the reel and not the side-plate.

Could you post a Pic to give us a better idea? DVT might have some insight.  

That’s not a screw that requires any torque at all but you see that already. Loctite might be enough if there’s some threads left I can’t tell from here. Don’t jb weld it tight or you’ll never get the side plate off. You can jb weld the hole them drill and tap to original size. Again, we’re just spit balling here sight unseen

8 minutes ago, Ryanralston07 said:

Thanks, but the problem is with the frame of the reel and not the side-plate.

Hitting head with palm!!

Of course no frame screw goes into the brake side plate.......

New frame time.  I know daiwa uses a huge screw with a huge slot but resist the urge to get out the 2 foot long flat blade that fits in there.  Thumb pressure or a coin is enough.  

Here's a picture

1 minute ago, Tatulatard said:

New frame time.  I know daiwa uses a huge screw with a huge slot but resist the urge to get out the 2 foot long flat blade that fits in there.  Thumb pressure or a coin is enough.  

Ya, pretty frustrated with myself right now.

Wrap a little Teflon tape (plumbing supply aisle) on the screw and screw back on. Should be enough to fill the gap(s) in the threads.

Yes, the Mag dial screw that goes into frame. Now I see!

Frame swap in order.

 

 

Karl

I've filled many stripped-thread holes on antique reels wth JBWeld, and then drilled and tapped them. 

 

Since helicoil came up below, it's a big investment for a single repair. 

EZ-Lok makes more sense than helicoil, but you need enough metal foot and thickness to use it. 

 

example, I converted some kayak track nuts from 1/4-20 to #8 for a plastic stringer cam cleat. 

 

If you don't have enough Metric nuts lying around to identify the thread, you may not want to take this on.  But I can promise you tapping a JBWeld repair is reliable.

look up helicoil insert. That would be the correct way to do it. 

1 hour ago, Ryanralston07 said:

I took my Daiwa Tatula CT apart and when putting back together, I think I applied too much torque to the set plate screw that runs through the brake dial on the side plate and into the body of the frame. The hole looks completely smooth, and the screw looks just fine. I don't want to tap for a bigger bolt, but I was thinking about putting in some loctite or jb weld on the bolt, buttoning it up, letting it cure, and calling it a day. Any better ideas? I just got this reel in the later part of June, so this is beyond frustrating.

Isn't it under warranty ? Maybe it was made that way ?

4 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

Isn't it under warranty ? Maybe it was made that way ?

It is. Got it back in June. May just end up returning it to Basspro instead of trying to fix it or waiting on warranty. I want to fix it though b/c I have so many memories with it in Alaska with my dad last month. We take a yearly trip to Alaska fishing, and this year I caught a ton of fish on that reel - wanna salvage it for memories' sake...don't want to be $ either though lol

16 minutes ago, Functional said:

look up helicoil insert. That would be the correct way to do it. 

I'm not even sure what size to get, if I were to try it.

31 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

Isn't it under warranty ? Maybe it was made that way ?

LOL

22 minutes ago, Ryanralston07 said:

I'm not even sure what size to get, if I were to try it.

 

Take the screw that goes into that hole and go to tractor supply/lowes/home depot and they typically have a board where you can try the screw into multiple slots to get the correct size. An example if it was SAE would be 5/16 -18 (diameter 5/16, with 18 threads per inch). That would be the helicoil size kit you would get.

 

The kit typically comes with a correct drill bit size (drill out the old threads) a tap for the helicoil and a few helicoils. You trim the helicoil length to work with the available hole depth and screw that in with JB weld to the new threads you made. The inside of the helicoil will have the threads that match the screw you use to hold whatever you are screwing down. 

 

 

 

 

IF you decide and say "screw it" and just JB weld the hold and screw into it make sure you coat the screw in KIWI shoe polish so when everything dries the screw will come out. 

38 minutes ago, Ryanralston07 said:

I'm not even sure what size to get, if I were to try it.

If you've never installed a helicoil before, then this isn't the place to start. Good chance you'll just end up flushing $20 down the drain. With the lack of depth of that through hole, and the absolute requirement that both the drill and tap is held 100% perpendicular to the frame, your chances of success are very low. It's absolutely do-able, but very iffy by a novice with a hand drill and a T-handle. Try the other options you've been offered, or suck it up and order a new frame.

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

I've filled many stripped-thread holes on antique reels wth JBWeld, and then drilled and tapped them. 

 

Since helicoil came up below, it's a big investment for a single repair. 

EZ-Lok makes more sense than helicoil, but you need enough metal foot and thickness to use it. 

 

example, I converted some kayak track nuts from 1/4-20 to #8 for a plastic stringer cam cleat. 

 

If you don't have enough Metric nuts lying around to identify the thread, you may not want to take this on.  But I can promise you tapping a JBWeld repair is reliable.

 

Nice.

5 minutes ago, Deleted account said:

But I can promise you tapping a JBWeld repair is reliable.

I was going to suggest that

it looks like you might have just enough thread in the hole.  I'd start with teflon tape since its a cheap and simple thing to try.  You could also try a more coarse thread of the same size and pitch to give a little more bite.  Some loc-tite green might also be enough if its just barely slipping.  Green is easily removed later.

Find some loc tite form-a-thread. Its good for these types of jobs although a bit expensive. It's the right way to get this done IMO. 

 

And for the future, leftover tackle box compartment separators were meant to be used to tighten that screw down to the perfect torque.

I was thinking JB Weld and retap, but if you have enough material around the hole, they make threaded inserts you can drill it out and bond in the insert.

 

These don't require quite as much surrounding area as a helicoil and don't require the larger tapping a helicoil needs.

You guys should see what DIY bicycle mechanics bring in sometimes into the shop. Invariably they come in after they've exhausted their YouTube expertise, and we are only too glad to quote the job...

"First we have to undo all of this, then we have to determine what's damaged, and then we get to the part where if you would have just brought it in in the first place"...

45 minutes ago, Deleted account said:

You guys should see what DIY bicycle mechanics bring in sometimes into the shop. Invariably they come in after they've exhausted their YouTube expertise, and we are only too glad to quote the job...

"First we have to undo all of this, then we have to determine what's damaged, and then we get to the part where if you would have just brought it in in the first place"...

Happens with cars all the time

2 hours ago, Deleted account said:

But I can promise you tapping a JBWeld repair is reliable.

I was going to suggest that

Well, after considering all my options, I just returned it to Basspro, got money back, and ordered a new one ?