I need a little bit of advice from motor experts...

I have a 2005 Johnson outboard motor that was given to me as part of a removal and disposal deal of an abandoned boat in a friend's backyard. So this old Johnson sat out in the Florida weather for 12 years unused but covered. It ran when it was left there.

I would like to try and bring it back to life, but also follow the technical details of how to go about doing this the right way.

The primary issue I need advice on is upper cylinder lubrication before turning motor over in starting attempts.

I have already bumped the motor with its starter motor and the motor will turn so it is not locked up. It should fire up once the carburetor is cleaned up and fuel lines.

But I don't want to cause any scoring or damage inside the motor. So I am reading online that using fogger oil or something similar is advisable to use before trying to start it.

So when I consider the pistons and cylinders, Its metal on metal in there. Fogging oil can only reach one side of the piston. Is this enough upper cylinder lubrication to protect the cylinders from damage? In my mind I'm thinking the oil should be on cylinder walls both in front of the pistons and behind them. Is this best case scenario and simply not possible and just go with oil on one side of the piston as directions on products say?

How does one lubricate behind the pistons on the rest of the moving parts behind pistons? Is that all covered by oil in fuel?

Some fogging oils are sprayed into the carburetor on running engines to get it into the cylinders. I have also been told to remove spark plugs and spray it inside that way which is what I leaning towards as most effective in this situation since going through the carburetor requires motor to be running or turning for that so that does not seem like a viable option at this point. Yet most products all say spray through the carburetor and this motor is not there yet.

I am not a mechanic. And I know enough to be dangerous. I have the skills to do most basic maintenance or repairs on these motors. I have no problems changing gear oil, replacing impellers, replacing a carburetor is easier than rebuilding one and I have successfully swapped out carbs on generators and lawnmowers with no problems. So I am reasonably certain I can handle the small carb on this motor as well, but its that upper cylinder lubrication that is bugging me. I don't want to cause damage in those cylinders.

I know I need to do compression testing, but I am not quite there yet. Should I attempt something like this and spray oil in through the spark plugs holes and just try it and hope for the best? Or, should I play it smart and pay the big bucks for a professional to do this part of it? That is what I am trying to avoid since this motor was free its not going to be a big loss if it never runs again. When my son buys a boat we will just have to buy another motor as well if need be, but if I can get this one running again by some simple do it yourself at home techniques, I'd sure like to start there and save some money and have some good father/son projects for us.

So I did some searching on fogging oil and was going to purchase Sta-Bil fogging oil that I found on walmart website, but when I went into the store they told me it was only available online and the only fogging oil they had was Seafoam Spray. I'm just not sure if this product is good enough lubrication for what I am attempting.

I have heard Marvel Mystery oil can be poured into the spark plugs holes for similar. But pouring means gravity controls where it goes which will always be the bottom of the cylinders and may not flow around entire piston and cylinders. So a spray seems to me would be more effective at covering the entire cylinder walls before I try to start it.

I'm avoiding the pro's on this one because their prices have skyrocketed and this simple process would cost hundreds and no telling how long it would take to get motor back as I hear is time lengths are getting longer and longer these days, and if this motor ran when abandoned, the motor has been covered and protected all these years. And after cleaning up fuel lines and carb, it should run I am thinking. Its in good shape.

I just don't want to blow it by something I did wrong in this process. So I'm asking the motor experts to weigh in on this one if you will, and thanks in advance for any and all advice and suggestions.

RIght now I am cleaning it all up. Propeller removed for some straightening of blades and sanding off burrs. Its a 12 pitch so that is a down the road issue once its on a new boat and tested out for proper pitch at a later date. Just going to use old prop for now if it runs and see which way I need to go with it for a new propeller. I am familiar with this process. I've done it before on several of my boats.

I have two of these outboard motors almost identical. I run a 1987 OMC Johnson/Evinrude 35hp on my boat now without issues for more than 10 years. Runs great. So since both motors are due for new impellers, I am going to get my 12 year old son to help me replace both of them at the same time and get that out of the way. This 2005 uses the same impeller my motor does and I have 3 in stock so that's covered.

He's going to change gear oil as well.

I plan on pulling the fuel pump to examine it internally to see if there is gunk from degraded old fuel in there or if it is clean. I hope the doctor who owned it may have run it dry before leaving it for all these years. I doubt it. I just replaced the fuel pump on my motor. The original one lasted from 1987 until 2025. Nearly 40 years on original fuel pump. That cost me less than $15. Runs like a scalded dog now and idles better and does not shut off until warmed up like it did before. Now it starts right up and stays running. Hopefully this 2005 will do the same.

I'm ordering up a carb rebuild kit now... but about that upper cylinder lubrication? How to do that right is what I am most concerned with. I want to do it right and with the best product to. Thanks again.

It looks clean and otherwise in good shape. Take it to an expert and let them do it before you screw anything up. Then you'll have it for another 20 years.

And I know you are right! lol

Like I said, I know enough to be dangerous!

PM Keith @Way2slow . He is an expert on OMC engines and helped me out.

Isn’t it a 2 stroke?

33 minutes ago, Susky River Rat said:

Isn’t it a 2 stroke?

Great question!

You know … my uncle used say; “Jigfishn10, (well not exactly Jigfishn10), if you want a loaf of bread you go to the bakery.

I would do the same with the motor. Take it to someone who knows way more than me … haha

Good luck @FloridaFishinFool. My fingers are crossed

If it’s a 2-stroke (which it appears to be), run the proper mix through it and BOOM cylinders are lubricated. Any lube prior to turning it over is going to be a waste once you turn it over, if not before. If you’re going to cycle it yourself without starting some Mystery Oil in the cylinders is great. But if it ain’t broke, don’t break it.

Yes its a 2-stroke.

I may take you up on that marvel mystery oil.

I do want some lubrication inside those cylinders when it starts turning. For fuel to get in there it will take a little time for that fuel oil mix to get in there. I want the oil on those cylinders before anything starts moving. So maybe Marvel Mystery oil is the ticket for this project.

Shoot some marvel mystery oil in it. That will give ya some initial lubrication and then mix a proper ratio of 2 stroke mix and let her rip.

Put a little gas/oil mix in a spray bottle and squirt in each cylinder. That’s what is going to lube it when it starts.

You turning it over with the key already did what you didn’t want it to do. You spun the top end without supplying lube. When you go to start the engine It’s going to pull fuel to start the combustion process which lubes the cylinder.

I didn't spin it. I bumped it to see if it was locked up or moved.

When I did that was very little movement- less than an inch of turning. But you are right I should not have done that dry. And I won't do that again.

I agree the fuel mixture will do the lubricating once it starts flowing, but I am really considering putting something in there before the fuel start flowing.

Sitting 12yrs has done more damage than anything.

In reality you probably should have put some lube in the cylinder, let it sit for a few days then, with a socket and breaker bar, cycle the cylinders.

On the other end I seen people (me included) just fresh fuel, pump the ball, and light the fuse, so to speak.

Just a reminder, non-ethanol or ethanol free fuel. Some of those components, may or may not be compatible with ethanol.

If this engine uses the external oil tank to lube the engine, do not trust it-mix the oil and gas. That oil pump has a diaphragm pump which often fails, and maybe time has caused this one to fail. I would not even use it after getting the engine in running condition.

Mick my 2005 motor has fortunately avoided the VRO system. I did a search on it and it says they did produce VRO systems in 2005, but starting on the 35hp models and up. My 25hp is a fuel mix motor thankfully.

So it looks like the general consensus is to spray some lubrication into the spark plug holes and go from there.

I appreciate all the responses.

I think most of you know I am going to attempt this one myself first- and only take it to a pro when I reach the end of my rope. I think the comment above about 'crossing fingers' and hope for the best is on target.

I'm going to focus on causing no harm with whatever I do so it won't be damaged if I have to take to a pro eventually. Hopefully this motor can be saved. It will help my son reach his boating goals sooner.

This is the boat he is wanting to buy right now to put this motor on. This is a nice boat for inshore fishing, and this motor is a perfect fit for this boat -if we can get it before someone else does.

For what it's worth, I asked google ai and here's the response. Some you're already doing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+bring+back+a+25+year+old+outboard+motor&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS1204US1204&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgBECEYoAEyCQgAEEUYORifBTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigATIHCAQQIRirAjIHCAUQIRifBTIHCAYQIRifBTIHCAcQIRifBTIHCAgQIRifBTIHCAkQIRifBdIBCTE5MDA4ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&udm=50&fbs=ADc_l-aN0CWEZBOHjofHoaMMDiKpV6Bbbmx4QVaoKkiRQ2jlwvCHF0Eqz8cUq4JjDCZnrJFky5yqfBcqysgzHz9N85mK5Cjsb5MRQJ1U5L53ITkRpBorskP1rA1F8Z2LvQ2DoI3YMdh4PjO1eXte2VoqVi-P0ODPxReTxmZwcPz0XS7iJH4-pdO0uw4G5H-YUU_DzeoZA2gGbsp1d07fYHdEhYArrw6RvQ&ved=2ahUKEwiisYeZ3ZqTAxXXGFkFHTkdBfQQ0NsOegQIBBAB&aep=10&ntc=1&mstk=AUtExfBEE_yo4xZxGDiUUF0Ywh_vHlPuWpeJa3ftT1cAKcUrkj6pcolGfM00rECWJPI3qKzMmWbN1IoqvGqsaAxtgXH9YqH0uTvkmjTZ0jncHWg5Kp0Q9lvUPfeJqMSRnZcwiNaPEgaq34TTQGeUZ5qCnngQLBgc95RwhUL3VVBL5xQNTpRQ0HW_RhaB0ye-Fc50ozl0TPGkiBTjhv2Yn6DqG277p0wWWqb4KY7pE22MlirkGXIcivrlcS9BAw&csuir=1

It’s a two stroke, you’re not going to hurt it. Pour some Mystery Oil in the cylinders and rotate it by hand or slowly bump it without plugs. Make sure you have a strong battery and if not binding or making horrible noises blow it out, replace the plugs, clean/rebuild the carbs, change the gas and oil (😆) and let it rip.

I definitely agree don’t use the external oil reservoir, mix your own.

I’ve buried two stroke motorcycles in creeks, under water, pulled the plugs, drained the water and rode off. It’s an incredible air pump and other than scoring the cylinder walls with grit/ trash or broken rings it should run with fuel/oil and spark.

Don’t over think it, you know just enough to be dangerous !

Follow the basic. It sounds like you have sprayed more than enough oil. Before doing anything else do a compression test. with all the oil you said it's probably 130 but the main thing is both cylinders are close to the same and over 90psi. Lower than that will make it hard to start.

next make sure it's firing on both cylinders. Take both the brass main jet access screws out and see if there's a heavy black buildup on them. If so, you will probably for sure need to rebuild the carbs before putting it in service but not now. Hook a tank to it with 50:1 GAS/OIL and pump the bulb to flush the system for several ounces of gas. Now crank it over and see if the fuel pump will pump fuel out the carbs. Put the brass screws back in the carbs. Put LU in tank or hook muffs to it for water. Use a spray bottle of premixed gas (not starting fluid) spray a little gas in each carb and see if it starts. If so, you might have to keep spraying a little gas in carbs to keep it running for a minute or two to make sure it does run and not knocking and then do another compression test. Drain the LU and make sure the oil is in it and it's black. Refill with fresh oil if good. All this is just to see if you have a motor worth spending money on.

If so, now you can start spending your money. Two most important things is rebuilding the carbs and water pump (that's a must). Inspect the wiring and make sure it's not breaking all apart and replace the rubber fuel lines if they show signs of being hard and cracking. The rest is just replacing the obviously bad parts and a set of spark plugs, or just how much money you want to throw away.

A quick how it works. Gas and oil is premixed unless you have oil injection. When the piston in one cylinder is going up the other cylinder is going down. The reeds are closed and it's pressurizing the crank case under it. As it's gets down enough the top of the piston opens the exhaust port. That piston that was going up is pulling the reeds open to recharge the crankcase for that cylinder. Once it starts back down the reeds close and it's pressuring the crankcase. When the dome clears the intake ports the pressure forces the gas charge up toward the sparkplug and push the exhaust gas down toward and out the exhaust port.

Thanks for all the information and responses.

I did not update this thread as I should have.

With this motor I got really lucky. I opened up the fuel pump. It has one screw to get inside. Once inside I found it as clean as new. I expected old fuel and some gumming up, but none was to be seen.

So I took a chance and fired it up. And surprisingly she fired right up.

I was not able to run it long because it needs a new impeller, but it appears the motor runs fine.

I will try and get back to finishing it up soon. It needs a new starting wire as this one is now too short, and lower gear oil needs replacing along with impeller.

I may get lucky and not even have to rebuild the carburetor. Keeping fingers crossed.

I personally would rebuild the carbs if you know how. The reason there are a lot of small passages in it that can be obstructed but and there’s a lot more to them than just spraying some junk in them and putting them back together. If that’s your way, just run 2 ounces of Seafoam per gallon of gas for the first tank full of gas and avoid running WOT for more than a minute or so, then 1 ounce per gallon for the next couple.

One note, when the fuel mixture inters the engine it enters into the crankcase first, lubricating the crank, bearings, and pistons pins first. It then travels up the outside of the sleeve to the intake ports where it is blown into the cylinder above the piston so everything is being lubricated when the motor is running.

I would rebuild or at least clean the carburetors. If the engine isn’t getting fuel the cylinder isn’t getting lubricants.

Thats why I said to use a spray bottle with premixed fuel in it and do not use starting fluid. That spray bottle is probably putting more gas and oil than the carbs would. I have always prefered minimizing my time and money, just see if will run and is worth spending the time and money on it.