Team9nine

LOL - Of course there's a difference...one has salt and one doesn't But your original statement and question(s) was: My answer was that I fish the salted ones on a Ned Rig and on a shakey head. That's what I use them for. Yes, there is a technical difference if you were to fish them completely weightless outside of just a hook, but that wasn't your question. My point (inferred) was once you add weight from a jighead, slip sinker, inserted nail, etc, you'd never be able to detect any difference in how the same salted vs non-salted worm fished. The point about getting you to buy two different packs instead of one was partial sarcasm. They (pros, articles, etc.) will try and convince you via marketing you might need both, but the reality is that that would be the rare exception. I'd argue that the ones with salt and the ones with flake are actually probably softer than the non-salted ones, also. -T9

I'm guessing you're fish-for-fish with me on the shallow stuff. You seem to have figured out most of the better bites and locations out there. If I have an advantage, it's that I've got a pretty solid offshore game that you haven't had a chance to capitalize on yet due to your electronics setup (I'm guessing). That will come soon enough though, I'm sure. -T9

Baitcasters - 90% fluorocarbon Spinning - 90% braid Why? because.... Actually, braid for handling & line management, and fluorocarbon for density. -T9

I'm guessing I made about half as many as @IndianaFinesse ...usually runs between 80-125 days per year for me. Extended forecast models aren't looking good. Probably down to half a dozen or less trips left this year -T9

Goals were 3rd on my list, right behind their ratio of salt vs non-salt plastics in their boats at No. 2, but I was afraid I couldn't accomplish either of those in just 10 minutes. -T9

Yep - 10 minutes and an MMC card and I'm walking off happy. I'd double check his actual units settings if I have a couple extra minutes after downloading -T9

And that's your choice to dismiss my opinion and go out and buy as many salted and unsalted packs as you want so you will be able to catch fish, too. The tackle companies appreciate your financial support! Be sure and tell all your friends they need both options in their tackle boxes, also! -T9

Yes, but who ever said you have to have a floating worm/vertical presentation to catch fish on a shakey head? Kool-Aid... So people who think you have to have specific types of worms for specific presentations will buy two packs of every color instead of just one $$$$ -T9

Shakey head and Ned Rig. What's salt got to do with anything? -T9

I fall into the Scott Adams (Dilbert) camp that says, "Goals are for losers" - no offense meant to anyone; just a quote of his. He wrote a whole book about it. As such, I'll stick to my usual systems based method of fishing for another year. Don't expect any New Year's resolutions from me, either, when that thread pops up in another month or so - LOL -T9

Had a friend join me today for his last Indiana fishing trip this year as he's headed to sunny Florida for the winter at the start of the coming week. Launched at 1:15 and fished until 5:45, managing 82 bass today. Water clear and 47 degrees. Sending him south to warmer weather with some sore arms

I haven't, but that's just me. I've tried them (all glass) for buzzbaits, spinnerbaits, square bills, Traps and deep cranking. I just prefer a little bit of stiffness and responsiveness in my rods. The closest I've found that I liked was the old red Tour KVD crankbait rods that were a composite blank blend of E-Glass and carbon and that had that parabolic glass action, or fairly close to it. The old Daiwa VIPs were pretty close, also. -T9

Will be a bit to the cool side here, but have made it a ritual when weather permits. Planning on it this year. -T9

I always try and land them, for a variety of reasons. Getting my bait back (A-Jay) is a big one, but our state also issues certificates for large fish caught and released for a variety of species, so I'm always willing to try and land something for a crack at one of those Then there is just respect for the fish... -T9

Palomar for every line type here, too... -T9

Ditto - I've tried all three "mixes" (all glass, high end graphites and composites), and for me, I much prefer some graphite in the mix. Doesn't have to be high end, either. The old IM6 or 96% graphite rods (composites?) from "back in the day" performed just as well. Just get a "moderate" or parabolic action rod. Just never could find an all glass rod I was happy with for this application. -T9

^^ THIS ^^ Had a 2008 V-8 with 180k when they (local shop) went to change plugs and snapped two off. Got one out, the other they couldn't. Neither could Ford. Ended up taking the top off and redoing everything - $1500 later and they still did the job wrong. Was going to cost $4,000 to have Ford drop a new engine in it. Ended up selling it and moving on. Was a very good truck otherwise though -T9

Dr. Allen's Lab -T9

Can they hear sonar - not likely. Studies at Auburn Univ on both redeye and spotted bass concluded that, “Long story short, bass are essentially deaf.” Their hearing frequency range (<2.5 kHz on the high end) is generally shown to be much less than ours (up to 20 kHz), so traditional sonar frequencies in the 192-1200 kHz range would be well above what they (or we) could hear. I can't speak to what the "clicking" noise frequency is or what causes it. Personally, my rule of thumb has always been, when I step in the boat, the sonar units get turned on and they never get shut off until I ramp out. I believe what you learn by always having them on more than outweighs any possible negative effects. I've done this for nearly 30 years, and can't say I've ever felt like it's hurt me, at least in the big picture. -T9 .

If the 8# mono was the Big Game you mentioned, you should be set. That is pretty much the same as many 10# monos, which is what I consider standard around here for most regular sized jerkbaits. I will throw a lot of 8# fluoro though when dealing with totally open water situations, especially if the water is a bit to the clearer side. -T9

Plain old Google Maps does it too, over water or land, straight or winding routes. -T9

Fissure_man for President!! That response will teach people not to ask simple preference questions here on the forums ever again -T9 (anxiously awaiting the results of the science experiment tonight from the 9 y.o.)

And a measurebator says, "How will that difference affect my fishing?" -T9

I think the terminology might be getting in the way of understanding , but you can do a couple easy experiments with the kid to see what we're trying to explain. Here's a simple test you can do with a reel with no line on it. Set the drag at whatever moderate setting you wish. Make sure though when its set you can slip drag by simply applying pressure with one finger to the outermost rim of the spool. Now take your finger and move to the inside edge (where you'd tie your line) of the spool near the axis and try to slip the drag again. Either it will take much more force to rotate the spool or your finger will slip and the spool will not turn. This is similar to the door experiment I mentioned. Another test. Fill that same empty reel full of cheap line. Set the drag using a scale to what you would typically do if going fishing. Now peel off half or more of that line from the spool (for effect), reconnect the scale to the line, and test again. Don't touch the original start drag or setting. You should see that it now takes a little more force to get that drag working at the same setting compared to your original full spool setting. -T9