Darren.
Super User
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Everything posted by Darren.
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I use drop and Ned all the time in the shallows to the deeps. Haven't thrown a Neko in a long time.
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Nice update. I can attest the BM (bait monkey or some other moniker...) can be beaten. I've been pretty good thus far, too. For the most part....
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Congrats! Looks like a hawg-beast to me
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That adds some clarity, Tom. Thanks.
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Right, that's the assumption. Is interesting that is somewhat of an open-ended "question", if you will, in the rules. I was more or less throwing the question out there to....
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Curious. The "Intentionally foul hooking or snagging a fish" leaves room for "Oops, I didn't mean to snag or foul hook that fish"... I foul hooked a 6 pound bass once, never saw the fish until i got it into the net and then realized it was hooked in its side. Explained why it felt much bigger. But I didn't intend to foul hook it. What's the determiner for intention? Just curious....
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Yeah, I think I did too much cutting through the entire blade over the years on multiple line types. Perhaps the next set I will do that. Actually, might just be the one attached to my PFD. Will have to see whether the one I gave to one of my sons has the same issue.
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Got a couple Boomerang snips, but trouble with them cutting cleanly (for braid). Have used them on multiple lines, so that's the issue. Kid's Fiskars work very well. May investigate some of the other suggestions mentioned here.
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Tough loss. Appreciate your comments, Blue. Hope for the best for the family from such an awful, sudden loss.
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I use Gamma Edge as leader in 6, 8, and 10# test lines. Great, strong stuff. Highly recommend.
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Agree. Personal pref. I've got long rod ends, and short ones. Still hit the life jacket from time to time, LOL. I did shorten a couple rod ends by about 3" each. Changes the rod dynamics a little.
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Welcome aboard, Tim!
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To your questions: 1) Yes, easy to paddle my setup, and no foot pedals do not lock into place. Have to remove locks in order to use as steerers. 2) Battery: For years I used a very heavy 80AH battery, but the weight was just too much in my yak to take in and remove after every trip. Was a pain. I ended up buying a sealed 35AH wheelchair type battery which weighs 26lbs, I think. I've never once run out of juice on the water, and that's with towing another kayak to a location often. 3-4 hours on water is usually my max. LiON would be best for weight but they break the bank for me. 3) For foot pedal distance, you can shorten the steering cable reach to bring the pedals closer to you. However, that may limit your steering angles. I actually moved my steering tracks a few inches closer to me in my yak (I'm around 5'7"), and I also shortened the steering arms on the motor itself which allows less foot movement for steering.
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Yes to hacking off the part. I didn't do a great job as I didn't/don't have a band saw - which would have made it look better. And yes to motor removal. I cobbled together a "pivot mount" for my setup, see image below. FWIW, the steering arms have been modified from what I did in the pic below. Here I drilled through and used the buckles, but I have since modded to use Aksman's method with shorter arms (more sensitive steering).
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I attached it to the plate with stainless bolts as you can see below. There are the two that secure the front of the plate, then the first in the middle (below the bar code) also goes thru securing the mount to the plate into the hull, the final bolt comes up thru the plate and thru the mount. Never had an issue with wobble, or even bumping into stuff, or getting hung up on logs. She's as secure today as when I first did it many years ago. Bought the plate at a local TruValue. Have since had to grind some rust off it (salt water issue), and spray it with some Rustoleum.
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There are many DIY versions of this on the interwebs, YouTube. My version is similar, but I used store-bought stuff for the mount. And I have easy access as I have a hybrid kayak (Native Ultimate). The MinnKota mount is sawed off at the screw-on portion to make it flat so you can then mount it to the metal plate you use to then attach to the hull. You'll want to create a hole somewhere to get access to those drilled holes so you can secure it well with stainless bolts and washers. I did saw off a bit of the motor shaft to keep the profile down. And I also bought a pulse width controller from these folks: https://www.wirelesstrollingpro.com Which allows the trolling motor to have "infinite" forward and rev as opposed to the standard 5 forward speeds and 3 reverse. You only need to use the Red and Black wires from the trolling motor head to make it work. Which is a lot easier than using the control unit from within the TM head. Appears the company is retooling or something but they say they are still in business.... While this YouTuber (Aksman) wasn't around when I did my setup, he's got a lot of vids on the topic you can peruse through that may be of help. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnl__DThu7j5W32-_8BFzkw/videos
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Welcome to the forums!
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Welcome aboard!
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Welcome aboard!
