Team_Dougherty

It does matter what pitch you have. I have a 15" and a 17" pitch prop for my 40HP. My boat can not get out of its own way with the 17" with more than one person. With the 15" it is a different boat.

That solar charger is only about .25 amps. That is no where near enough power to recharge a deep cycle battery. You will need a solar panel at least as big as your boat even to begin to charge the battery. I think 120 watts, 10 amps, is the minimum you will need.

ACDelco M27MF

http://www.camiscomponents.com/acdc-motor-thermal-protection-relay-p-28493.html

You are not the first one to make that comment. ;D I think that it the paddle of the photographer I agree with others above. It all come down to personal preference. There are many kayaks out there. Try different ones. A local place, to me, has many you can try before you buy. I am sure there are others as well.

Having fished from both I'll offer my experience. Sit in. lighter in general dryer lower in water harder to cast arms below side of kayak warmer in winter/ hotter in summer legs/feet out of sun in summer harder to reeenter if you dump water will collect in bottom of kayak need bilge pump. most of your stuff is inside harder to get at. SOT heavier in general wetter higher in water easier to cast arms above sides of kayak. colder in winter/ cooler in summer legs/feet can be burned to a crisp in summer. use sun screen easier to reenter if you dump water doesn't collect in kayak I find it easier to get to stuff on the back well area can sit sideways and dangle feet in water. spilled 24oz bottle of soda can easily be rinsed out. ;D

I would get the biggest one you can afford. you can not have too much power.

Circuit breakers and fuses are made to protect the wire and the wire only. it has nothing to do with the load. If you have 14awg wire it needs to be fused at 15 amps 12awg 20 amps etc... you can go with a lower fuse but not bigger.

You want to charge at 10% of the battery's capacity. so if the battery is 100AH you want to charge at 10amps. you want to charge at the STD setting. everything you wanted to know about batteries. http://www.batteryfaq.org/

I have done it. It works great. for the 1004 I used this led light. http://www.ledlight.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=34344 in super white and a BAD15 Base it looks like the 90 has the same BAD15 base so the above LED replacement may work for that as well. Check dimensions for clearance. LEDs are polarity sensitive. if it does not work at first rotate the bulb 180° Here is my post when I first did it. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1272545238/9#9 Make sure the LEDs you get are not directional.

easy enough to do yourself. http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product_read_only.jsp?productId=928274&destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch_catalog_command.cmd%3FfromProductSearch%3Dtrue%26item1%3DIK-010655&WTz_l=CQO

Is the flip HD waterproof? this is what you need.. http://gopro.com/

some guys will keep one on GPS and one fish finder mode. The reason is in split screen mode it maybe to small.

you will need to replacing everything. to go higher that 55lbs you will need to go to 24v. You will also need another battery.

There are many thing to consider when trying to see your lure on a FF. The two major ones are water depth and the cone angle of the depth finder. if you are in 10 feet of water and your cone angle is 20° the circle you can see on the bottom is only 3' on the bottom. If you are in 20 feet of water you are only seeing 6 or 7' of the bottom. if you lure is not in that cone you wont see it. /\ / \ / \ / \

I have a humminbird PiranhaMax 170 and it can do that just fine.

Not Necessarily. You can wire your batteries like shown below. If your gas motor is electric start you can run the risk of running the one battery dead trying to start the motor. More than likely that wont happen. If your motor is electric start it should have some minimal charging circuit for putting some of the power used starting the motor back into the battery.

Ignore the blue mess. My boat is a tiller also. I keep my GPS/FF in the rear, next to the net on the right, and my plain FF on the bow. I need the GPS to know where I am and where i am going. So I keep that in the back. The plain FF I keep in front so I can keep on the structure I am fishing.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=usb+serial&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=5824150819034150596&ei=jmdVTdS9DcqBtgfom4X6DA&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEEQ8wIwBA#

http://www.briggsoutboards.com/

Check the settings on your Plotter. My hummindbird has an adjustment to compensate for this type of thing. Maybe yours is on and it should be off. Or the offset amount may be off. This is more of a function of the GPS unit and not the map software. The unit will do this without a map chip.

I am sure you would rather use your gift cards from Bass Pro. I would rather get a radio from http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Tyaku6p4sZZ/c_20/Marine-Audio.html?tp=419 many more choices and their staff had much more knowledge than bass pro.

Was this under load?

In PA you do not have to register any unpowered boat. The do have an unpowered sticker for $8 so you can use PFBC ramps with out an issue. http://fishandboat.com/registration.htm

http://www.outboardjets.com/index.php