iabass8

Casting-893c Spinning-852s

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/150939-rod-or-reelwhere-do-you-invest-your-money/page-3 http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/108157-rod-or-reel-where-should-you-put-your-money/page-2 http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/136579-whats-more-important-reel-or-rod/page-2 http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/112918-rod-or-reel/page-2

All my TD-Z r+ gear swaps needed main gear, pinion, the tiny drive gear and the washer. I did the 7:1 upgrade though. The exact answer would depend on which TDZ you are wanting to know about

It is the 736 glass It was made specifically for bladed jigs. It's already been discussed on another forum.

the champ 765 would work for your intentions so the new fury 765 should work. It isn't ideal for A-rigs unless you keep them lighter. it is a more powerful rod than the 735, it will have plenty of power. As far as a good rod, it will probably perform identically to the savvy which should have been a 100$ rod in the first place. the rods are too new to have any sort of solid opinion on them. I was thinking of getting a 733 but I'm not crazy about split grips. the rod probably won't blow people away but it will perform how its supposed to...as a 100$ rod.

It's a champ 736 CB Glass built specifically for chatterbaits It's been on the website for a couple weeks. It will be shown at Icast this year but won't be available until late August. http://dobynsrods.com/rod/736cb-glass/

frogs are a mainstay on the mississippi river. they work and they work well. find some grass with a little current but not a lot or shaded cover when the suns high!

I have 2 Tatulas that have this same groove. Found them last fall cleaning them. Doesn't effect the performance (yet). Line isn't fraying. I had a crappy experience with Daiwa's service department so I'm not sending them in for a new Twing until the boat is put away for the year.

Hats off to you Wayne! Returned the 14-2. my mistake.... Picked up 4 rolls of marine grade 14 AWG tin coated copper wire that only come in 18' rolls. Prop shop had some really nice waterproof encased fuse holders with the wire running through it. Spent the better part of the afternoon beating my head against the wall not getting any power. one of my inline fuses was bad that goes from the positive of the helm GPS to the positive of the battery. Swapped it out and it started right up. I watched the voltage meter on the GPS and it read 13.8 initially and gradually dropped little by little until it finally stabilized on 12.8-13.0 off the charger. Let it sit for over an hour and it didn't budge! I used the bow tilt/trim, the trim and the steering wheel and checked to make sure all accessories were still working. Voltage would drop to 12.6-12.7 but would almost immediately jump back up and stabilized at 12.8. Got the cables all set up and soldered but Thunderstorms are coming so running them will have to wait. At least it looks like the I have fixed the problem. Father-in-law was taking a look at the bow light switch on my front deck and noticed that the port for the light doesn't work. News to me as the only light I've ever used is the port on the stern by the motor. Now he wants to fix that and possibly re-do the fuse panel...should be interesting but at least he's an electrician. Thanks again for all your help Wayne!

assuming dobyns....734

another vote for the president.

Thank you for your help Wayne. I glanced over at the humminbird forums are saw people have the same issues and your recommendations for running to the battery were the fix. I picked up 50' of some 14-2 coated copper wire(i figured 6-7 ft for the helm to battery and 17ft for the bow to battery. Only comes in rolls of 25 and 50 at Menards. better to safe than sorry with the larger roll), 4 new ring connectors and 2 waterproof 3 amp blade fuse holders that i got a prop shop, and heat shrink tube. Father in law has a solder and crimper so I'm good to go. electrical guy at the prop shop said that it is most likely what you described and to also check the bilge fuses. I'll let you know if the problem persists.

I will definitely be doing that. I don't really ever use my livewells to be honest. They are almost always shut and I open them on occasions just to clean them out. I have 2 bilge switches on the dash that I don't touch too often. Would the bilge still draw amperage if I don't turn them on? I rarely have to use them. It's probably just my ignorance but I just assumed since GPS puck is wired to a plug that attaches to the unit, I could switch it on and off almost like plugging it in and unplugging it. I just read quite a few instances stating that these GPS pucks draw amperage and installing a master on/off switch fixed the issue as the GPS was still pulling from the battery even if the unit was powered off. Seemed odd to me but I'm not an expert at this.

I have the 71MHXF I bought to compliment a DX743 based on a few recommendations. Way way more rod then what I was looking for. 1/4oz-3/8oz jigs would be perfect on it /w trailer. I haven't put a 1/2oz anything on it so I don't now how it would handle anything over that. I use mine in moderate cover pitching finesse jigs, 1/8oz trigs (rod is a hair much for this weight but I like the blank a lot)and senkos into laydowns and light grass. Works perfect. Balance is good, not great. I ordered mine /w a nice discount from Kistler and got the full handle. Glad I did. Very well built, clean rod. You get a lot of blank for the price tag. I received a "first time buyer" discount that you just have to e-mail them for. I think I paid around 220$ shipped for the full handle.

Thank you for your help. Why am I slightly moving the pins on the power cord? I'll do it, I'm just curious as to why. I know for certain the electronics are hooked up to the boats fuse block in the back hatch. i can pull the 3a fuse and they shut off.Should I run both bow/helm devices to the battery on 2 separate 14g wires or just the GPS? The fuse block just says 3amp and then "green" which i assume is a dictation for the green wiring running from the fuse to the harness. I just have to find out where power cord at the GPS and the green ire are connected. Researching this issue a little more, it appears wiring directly to the battery is something that the previous owner should have done. i'll be near a Home Depot tomorrow so picking up the 14g wire and fuse holder won't be an issue. Is there much of a difference in soldering to the battery vs using 2 separate ring connectors coming from the 14g wire? also, while i'm in there, should i install a master on/off rocker switch for the electronic devices running to the battery?

all batteries are less than 2 weeks old

I was afraid you might say that. I don't do a lot of "running and gunning" on the river. I can be on the TM for 2-3 hours and that's the time it seems to be an issue. if I'm on the TM for hours and then turn the GPS on before starting the outboard, i get a low voltage and it's a flip of a coin if the outboard will start. I believe I have more than enough of battery. it's a group 31 800cca/1000mca /w 200 reserve AGM. It's on a charger when not in use at home. I can charge them to full, leave them off the charger for a while and it will stay full. If I turn on the GPS at the helm, the power drops quickly according to the charger. what would you suggest?

I prefer Sunline. Specifically Shooter and Sniper

I am having an issue that I'm pretty sure I've narrowed it down to the Humminbird GPS puck drawing power. I currently have a 24v 82# trolling motor /w two 29 deep cycle batteries and a 31 AGM bluetop /w 200 reserve that has all electronics hooked up to it. also have a 3 bank 15a dual pro onboard charger that I plug in after every outing. all gps and sonars don't stay on boat when not in use. They are removed and put in locker. Fishfinder in question is a Humminbird 595c GPS /w lakemaster chip that is used at the helm. Fishfinder at bow doesn't have GPS. After tinkering, here's what I've found: I can get to the ramp and not start up my electronics, fire up the outboard (Johnson 175 fast strike) and then turn the GPS on, everything is fine. Charges fine making runs. If I get to the ramp, turn on the GPS before starting the outboard, I get either a "low voltage" or the voltage is around 12.1 according to the gps. It will fire up though but it feels like its really trying. Charges up fine during a run. If I leave the GPS unit on, it will kill the battery and I've had to jump it twice. Both times I will get to the ramp right after and the battery is fully charged. If I get to a spot, turn the GPS off, I have no issues starting the outboard. From what I've researched(and I've read 2 different opinions on this), the GPS humminbird puck is either constantly trying to find my location and draws a lot from my battery or when I start the GPS up, it's drawing a lot of amps from the battery. I've also read an outboard should always be started /w electronics off.....makes sense but news to me. I have a ranger 482 that I would like to install an on/off switch for the GPS in question. I have a spare shorelander rocker switch that is 6 pins on the bottom and a 3 click top that has 2 positions for :on" and then off is in the middle. it says 12 vdc/24vdc below the yellow and 15a/10a below the red. each side has 2 pins and then theres 2 more in the middle on each side. Everything is hooked up to a breakbox /w blade fuses.I've checked the connections and changed the fuses as well. The TM is on its own breaker box and nothing runs off those batteries except the TM. Open to suggestions as this is beyond irritating but it seems a lot of people have this issue and installing a switch almost always seems to be the answer. I've tried to find any info on how to do this specifically but I cannot find anything. My father-in-law is an electrician so doing it correctly shouldn't be an issue but he isn't boat savvy. Can anybody give me a rundown on how to do it?

Saw your post on TT. I had a god awful experience with Daiwa's "reel repair center" and a customer service rep. Until I start seeing noticeable line fraying on my 2 grooved Tatulas, I'm not going to bother sending them in until maybe winter. I hope yours get fixed in a timely manner. Make sure you check them over thoroughly when you get them back.

Tdz type r+ with 7:1 gears

15# fluoro

Dbomb > Beaver > pit poss for me personally.