iabass8

The inductor is an easy enough fix. If the ding isn't on the lip it won't effect it. If it's on the spool shaft itself, send it to Ian.

steez sv tw is the finest reel i've used. buy it.

735 is a "beefier" rod than the 734 despite it being labeled a mh. Neither lure rating's are very accurate towards the top end. 735 is the rod you want for 3/8 - 1/2 jigs.

4,5,6 power dobyns aren't the same through the champ lines (or any of them). A 765 is much stronger rod than the 735. There's a casting line and a flipping line in the champion. A dobyns fast isn't a moderate. That's more true in the savvy/fury series of rods but the champs are pretty close to their action. Power wise it's model dependent. No idea what rod you're looking at but for 3/8-1/2oz jigs you're going to want the champ 735.

Daiwa: Red Tune Steez SV TW Alphas Air Stream custom SV-Light LTD-TN

I have 4 of the same. 2 with R+ spools and 2 with 2 different sv spools. The inductor plays a large part. Casts better though. Thats not to say sv spools wont free spool. The steez sv tw g1 spool will spin foever.

Bearing quality is something thats been talked about for years. Especially over at TT. We’re trying to save you time and money . Not sure if they are a site sponsor anymore but hawgtech sells a great bearing for around 8$. Finesse bfs casting has a lot to do with the rod as much as the reel. Casting 1/16oz and less lures requires the correct rod and consistant casting. Cheap junk bearings, for the most part, don’t have consistant balls, races, tracks, etc. Clean them, put them on a bearing checker to test and they will spin for ever. you wont have consistant peformance on the water over bearings that have a much more strict QC. The r+ and sv have the same bearings and are in the same reel.

The sv spool is used in the same reel as the type r+. air brakes work in different ways on different spools. They arent a blanket system. Stiff vs soft inductor springs, rotor size, etc. by saying free spool is indicitive (or ancontributing factor) to casting performance is the same as saying an RC car bearing that free spools for 60 seconds is the equivilant of a zpi that free spools for the same 60 secondS. The stock bearing on a g1 will spin for maybe 3-4 seconds. The rc car bearing will spin 1xs that. Guess which cast better and consistently on the same spool? ive put the same zpis on an HLC spool and the cheap bearings from an rc car vendor in an hlc. Both free spool forever. Guess which actually was able to cast with any consistancy? if you want that, pop the shields off the spool bearings, throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner or use a bearing blaster and put a drop of rem oil on a hook and drip it in the bearing. Bantam oil is a little too thick for what I prefer for spool bearings. Same with 321. Lasts a long time though.

Slick mist after every outing keeps mine looking brand new

There's nothing special or exotic about Shimano bantam oil. If you want to impress your self /w free spool, use the lowest viscosity oil after cleaning them. Hedgehog alchemy ultra light oil is my favorite. REM oil is also very good but generally needs to be reapplied every 5-6 months if you use the reel regularly. You can make 1$ RC car bearings in the shimano spool size free spool for close to that of an ABEC 7 ceramic. It isn't difficult to do. It just requires a lot of cleaning. They are tick poor (the RC car bearings) when it comes to casting. My TDZ R+ spools can free spool for well over a minute. I have SV spools that free spool for 5-6 seconds tops /w the same bearings. The SV spool casts better. Free spool is just a pretty dress and is not indicative of casting performance. Again, you can make the crappiest bearings that come in 10 packs of plastics tubes free spool forever. They won't cast worth a darn. It’s much, much more important to have a clean,smooth bearing.

Grooves where? On the TWS itself or the top of the reel? it isn't a common issue on TWS reels anymore. It's rare but I've seen a few report the actual TWS piece grooving but it was replaced /w the upgraded one. It was an issue on the first release of the TWS on the very first tatula. The t3 variants however fall under a different issue. The ballistic was, I believe, the first reel that had reported grooving issues but they were above the TWS where the line would "rub" above the reel. Daiwa added some special piece on future T3 variants to address this issue but also were giving them out to anyone to put on the reels. I had a ballistic that had a grooving issue that was replaced under warranty. I've had a few T31016's and still have one left that has not had any of the grooving.

Trust me and 24/7

Yes I have used both. The non glass is "better" at ripping traps though neither are what I prefer to use when doing that.

"more sensitive" is a relative term . You can feel every rock on the cb glass. what you also need to understand about the cb glass is it fishes like a graphite rod until a fish loads up and then you see the glass "bend". If i fished mid divers, traps, and squarebills all on the same rod, I would use the 705cb. Being a dedicated squarebill only, I prefer the glass.

Happy Joe's Pizza

705 cb glass is my dedicated squarebill rod. I fish a ton of rock and wood. love it.

I’m happy with the TI image quality but that mega imaging is pretty incredible stuff. If you arent brand loyal i would go with the mega imaging.

Sounds like you didn't align it correctly when reinstalling.

Yes. I've used SI on a 5, 7, and 9. SI is definitely easier to read on a larger screen. It's especially beneficial if you're running mapping and SI on the same screen. Elite 9TI has very good image quality.

get the largest screen you can afford for SI. You can find the elite9 ti in your range which is sonar chart live compatible

https://www.livetofish.com/Keitech-FAT-Swing-Impact-Swimbait-38-Sexy-Violet-6-p/4560262591259-b.htm

both

I agree. I wanted to like the reel but just couldn't.

It's actually very simple. I did my TD-Z /w a bench vise, dremel and a corded power drill. Drive shaft was surprisingly soft. Hardest part was stopping 4313534 times making sure I was dead center. Now that I know how to do it, I'll be using the father in laws bench vise and drill.