rippin-lips

You can tweak the arm to get it to run straighter, but single blade buzzbaits will tend to have a little lean to it.

Raises hand... What is a spinning rod?

They feel fine to me. I haven't used them yet so I can't say any more than that.

Unless you are wanting the 8:1:1 ratio then there's no need for the R.

Fluorocarbon offers Slack line sensitivity Good abrasion resistance It sinks and it's less visible The less stretch claim has been proven wrong years ago. Do you need it? I'd say no, but it's worth a try.

The argument can go both ways. No, I don't need a $$$ combo to catch fish. No, it won't make me a better fisherman. However I buy what I want with my money so other people's opinions don't make a difference to me. I fish alone the majority of the time and when I do fish with people they wouldn't know my combo from one from walmart. Except a few of my friends who tell me I have a problem. It puts a smile on my face and I'm número uno! Buy whatever you want and enjoy using it!

Thanks guys. I'm just excited to be out of the house.

Final starting lineup for the 2015 season. L-R Jdm zillion Px68 Ss Sv Alphas Sv Steez 100 Zonda 68 Px68 2 rodless reels I'm hoping to sell soon.

Braid with a fluoro leader would be a good compromise.

I'm in Md and I took a trip to Rayburn almost 3yrs ago. Spent 8 days in a camp ground 100 yards away from our boat slip. My experiences were very similiar to yours. Watermelon red Gators Fluoro Gar Boudain 'fricking amazing' Too much tackle And a few others

Pflueger president, and a lightning rod shock from walmart. You could even get the reel a bit cheaper off the auction site.

I have the non ipilot model and was told by MK that I can add the head but the foot pedal becomes unusable. With a rod in one hand and the other on the handle that doesn't leave one to operate the remote. I can't make direction changes while working down a bank using a crank or something that takes both hands.

Pics or it didn't happen!

The mh would be the better choice. Once you add a trailer to even a 1/4oz jig it becomes 3/8 + and a 3/8oz jig becomes 1/2 + and so on.

That was my plan but I learned once I add the ipilot head that the foot pedal isn't even able to be used. I'd have to control it from the remote. Kinda hard to fish with a remote in one hand.

If the #40 works then why spend money on a new one? Especially if you're on a budget. I have a powerdrive V2. It's nice but it has foot pedal issues that are sporadic. Stops working and you have to take it apart and clean it.

Figured I'd post this up in case it might come in handy to someone. I really didn't want to drill any holes in my yak since that's something that can't be undone. Also I'm not 100% on which side will work the best so this way it can easily be swapped to the other side. I found a few ideas online and adapted them to my specific yak. Takes about 15 minutes. My yak came with a trolley kit so that's where the pulleys and ring came from. You will need to purchase about $4 worth of hardware unless you have it around. 1 - M5x.80 stainless pan head screw 20mm 1 - M5x.80 stainless pan head screw 50mm 1 - M5x.80 nylon lock nut 3 - Stainless fender washers 25ft of 3/16 para cord or rope of choice. Replace the rear screw with the 20mm one. Put the 3 washers under the pulley and tighten down. Open front hatch and remove the bolt/nut that holds down to front paddle strap. Replace with the 50mm one. I trimmed 1/4" off mine but it's not necessary. Tie you cord to the plastic ring and push it under the side hande. Starting from the rear run your cord from the bottom over the top of the pulley and up to the side grab handle. Go over/under the ring and up to the front pulley. Feed the cord from the top to the bottom and back to the side grab handle. Figure out your slack and tie your knot. I burn the ends with a lighter and smash them down.

Buy it! It's a good deal, and it's pretty haha Plus I need to buy a rod for my SS SV that'll be here tomorrow.

The insert came out. As mentioned heat up with a lighter and pull the old one off. Put the heat on the metal part of the guide and not the rod. Add a drop of epoxy and install your new tip. Get it straight and let sit overnight to fully cure.

I'm not too worried about it getting wet. I'm putting it in the water anyways. If it becomes an issue I'll flip it over. Thanks for the tip. Do I need them? Probably not but I like the idea of using them. They keep it nice and snug with no movement. I've tried the music up thing and it doesn't help kill the awful sound I'm talking about.

Thanks for the tips. I didn't make the straps tight at all. Just snug enough to hold it in place. That was just to get it home. I plan on running the bow and stern straps. I can't use the J style holders because this exceeds their weight limit. I wanted to be safe and not sorry on that part.

The noise is my concern. I can't deal with it. It's tied down well, and not moving.

I car topped my yak home yesterday using the Sparehand kayak saddles on my crossbars. Secured it using 2 ratchet straps running side to side. One towards the front, and one towards the back. No issues with any of that stuf. My question is the awful noise I had to hear while driving. It was just a loud constant noise. Almost like a high pitch harmonic. It's beyond annoying and gives me a headache. I can't deal with that at all. So I'm guessing it was from the air flowing across the straps. Could I wrap them in something, or anyone have any fixes for me?

It's an extra gauge that you will have to purchase and install. http://greatlakesskipper.com/livorsi-sclwtw-smartcraft-white-boat-water-temperature-gauge?gclid=CNvLuZf71cQCFSYV7AodPE4AaA There's one on the auction site right now for $48.

The rod may break as I've seen that happen 3x now with their vendetta rod, but the reel will do fine.