Choporoz

Interesting....they do look good. So long as the keeper is, indeed, soft enough not to interfere with hook-ups, but durable enough... I got a kick out of this review: "Drill out the bait keeper that wont work in cover and JB weld in a small piece of thin spiral wire(as from a writing pen) best jig head on the market- this way baits last for many catches and never slip off. The way it is rigged from factory- terrible in Louisiana waters." lol...the day that I buy commercial jigs so I can drill out keepers or guards and weld something else to them is the day that I toss out the welder and just go fishing

I'm unfamiliar with 'poison'. But, since you specify weedy conditions, I'll suggest that I will most always tend towards a texas-rig type presentation (generally un-pegged, but also with screw-in bullets) over ned or darter head type. I just have confidence in managing it through weeds much better. The caveat is that I also use Owner Ultrahead finesse heads, and slider/spider heads which might be construed to be sort of a compromise between a jighead and a pegged t-rig. So, my answer is that you really need to try both/all in your particular weed conditions and see what works best for you. Your style/rod/line/weight/plastic, and especially the specific weed conditions will affect your ability and/or confidence to be effective.

Spare forceps, and snips are important...but, also, my treble baits all get stowed when I turn on my yak light

Finally got mine today. Stunning rod. Thank you, @new2BC4bass

I'm in a kayak, too. Rod and line should be fine. I never let them run out when in pads, or wood. Even if I'm using something more finesse-y (I've pulled big ones out of pads with spinning gear and 12# braid), I try to turn them or even lock them down -I try to avoid wind/current moving my jig/frog/worm too much left to right before I get bit - a straight line back to me is usually best, if possible -I generally try to get them turned towards me fast. As you said, late bite detection is a killer, especially if they get more than a few feet before you try to set -I can often cut stems with 40+ braid, and sometimes with the really fine 12-18 -If she gets wrapped quick, and braid isn't cutting, I go to her Nature of the beast, I'm afraid, is that kayaks and heavy cover means losing some

What rod and line are you using?

I acknowledge that you may well be very correct. However, I'd be willing to take one for the team, risk that and give it a try

Rough weekend here, too, Derek....didn't get skunked, but tried to. Friday turned out ok, but really had to work for them....Sunday, I went out at dawn and fished for almost six hours before I put one in the boat....bass fishing shouldn't be this hard

I almost never notice what the maker says about their jigs' purpose anymore. But it took a few years of experimentation. You find what works for you. Pay attention to what angle/orientation line ties get you hung up more than others. I want my jigs in gnarliest wood first and foremost. So I get mostly jigs that I can work through brush piles. I don't change for rock or grass if I'm mostly on on wood mission sort of day. However, if I'm setting out to fish Potomac weed flats, I will probably use a lower, vertical tie, but don't change if I come upon a laydown. I rarely want more than one rod with jig on at one time....too many other lures vying for my H MH rods' attention

Some famous pro (I forget who) years ago said something about being fine with bass seeing his line, because he felt some (many?) would follow the line to his lure. I'm usually not too concerned. I do use yellow line, and I do use leaders. My primary reasons are to facilitate break-offs, and to conserve braid. The visibility, to me, could be overrated, anyway. I made a cast yesterday and got distracted with something...until my line came cruising back all the way past me...the little guy probably traveled 30 feet with my worm before I noticed and tried to set the hook.

turns out mine are not 90° Owner Ultra heads aren't 90, either...be interesting to see how those work for you....I don't know enough about line tie nuances to imagine how it will be different

I'm assuming you were at Hunting Run....not trying to be anal...just want to be able to find this thread if I do a search in the future. Thanks for the report!

I'd have sworn that I have some Brewer slider ball heads like that, but I don't see any on his site with 90 deg. tie. I'll have to take a look when I get home.

Nice thing about a great deal on a rod or reel, is that if you have a change of heart in a couple months, the resale value may not be all that far off from your cost.

Things have changed at FFO, it seems. For a number of years, they had great selection of recent year models as the Fenwicks and Abu's brought out new stuff. I've got at least a half dozen rods from them, but it has been nearly a year since I've seen anything there that got me excited. For example, Sierra was closing out Fantasista Regista for $150, but FFO is still asking north of $300.

Science and experimentation without controls is another name for guessing

A bit ironic and sad, isn't it? Three or four years ago when many first learned of the 'Ned Rig', there was mad demand for mushroom heads and few suppliers out there. Lots if people were looking for Gopher heads. I know nothing about the company, but it appears that they made it to within an eyelash of explosive sales.

I'm positive there are some who flip quite well with spinning gear. I'm not one of them. One of the main reasons I went headfirst into baitcasting years ago was for close combat. Being able to thumb the baitcast spool to control distance (and lock the spool immediately, as necessary) was a game changer over having so little control over line coming off the spool and then trying to flip the bail while intently watching my line. The rod will largely depend on the weights, lures and hooks that you choose. 1/4 oz weight and light wire hooks and you can probably get away with a lot less rod than I might normally use. What sort of cover will you normally flip? From what distance? Boat? Bank? Kayak? Jigs, texas rigs, flukes, senkos....? Lots of variables...and lots of possible answers for every set of variables.

I'm having difficulty getting used to my full-grips.

I only see five reels mentioned.....IIRC, there's currently fourteen combos in my truck ...what was the question again?

It's funny because I posted a thread in the past month or two about recent experiences with different spinning reels in extreme wet conditions. Of the several different brands I mentioned, the Pfluegers held up best in sustained heavy rain conditions. My post was referring to problems likely caused by wet drag washers, but none of the reels sustained apparent bearing damage. Note that I maintain my own spinning reels, but only minimally. I clean and oil spindle and handle innards...little else. I do it gernally twice a year and after significant rain/dunking.

This might be key for what you've described. Even if everything seemed identical, your bait may have been falling 'differently'. It took me years to get it through my head how much difference it makes for even slight differences in flips to a target. If a target looks particularly ripe, I'll make a half dozen tosses until I get it 'close enough', 'straight up and down enough', or hit the 'right edge of the shadow', or 'just outside the current'....its crazy at times. Sometimes I don't know if she just gets pizzzed off, or if I finally got it right -- but it isn't at all unusual that the first flip to a target gets ignored.

https://www.mass.gov/orgs/division-of-fisheries-and-wildlife MassWildlife Phone Call MassWildlifeat (508) 389-6300 8 a.m.– 4:30 p.m., M-F Online email Email MassWildlife at Mass.Wildlife@state.ma.us -------------------------------- https://www.mass.gov/guides/massachusetts-freshwater-fishing-regulations ----------------------------------------- check out page 52 of this booklet...lots of great contacts: http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/7494/The-Massachusetts-Lake-and-Pond-Guide?bidId=