FryDog62

Check out Phenix Feather light and medium light casting rods. I prefer the Light for bfs... I can throw down to 1/16th oz hair jigs. Works well for Neds too. I use the ML for small tubes, shakey heads, etc.

These jigs for me were a big difference maker for larger smallies... in fact, they are almost a PIA to remove at times. Fish stay pinned: https://shur-set.com/t/ned-jig

I read as many of your posts Tom as anyone else I follow... all good and I’ve learned a lot. Hang in there...

I was able to try out the new "Agent E" from Berkley this winter. Very similar to the Dark Sleeper, maybe a little more compact, but works much the same. The best news is that its made of Powerbait and you get 2 lures for about the same price as a Sleeper ~

I fished a 60AH lithium on a 45 lb thrust autopilot for 2 months this winter on a 500 acre lake. Probably averaged 4-6 hours each trip, longest maybe 7. Never ran out of juice, most times battery still had 50% left and re-charged in 6-8 hours after I was done and ready to go again the next day. I didn't run wide open regularly, but usually did at least one trip at speed 10 from one end of the lake to the other. Seemed to work fine. I did upgrade to a 100AH, not because of the way I fish above but because next year I plan to go farther distances in the salt. If I stayed only on the 500 acre lake for 6 hour trips, the 60 AH would be plenty.

Our Mitsubishi experience was 3-4 years back but I don't think they've changed the gauge of the sheet metal since. We had 3 cars in the driveway - Grand Cherokee, Toyota Highlander and Mitsubishi Outlander Sport. Hail storm. Jeep and Toyota had zero damage, the Mitsubishi $4500. Neighbor had one too. His daughter drove it up a bit too far and it lightly bumped a parking pylon. Entire front fascia is thin plastic (much thinner than our Toyota for instance) which cracked throughout and widened over time and had to be replaced - $3200. Other than that, the engine/mechanicals were very good and they are known to have a safe frame from a collision standpoint.. just not very good from a body damage perspective IMO...

Not yet, I have a couple legacy versions of the 70 SV reel and I’m sure the new reel is just as good if not better.

Arguably the first yet most forgotten jerk bait of all-time is the Husky Jerk. I use it extensively when the water is below 50 degrees because it has less side-to-side (but enough) action to work exceedingly well when its super cold. Fish don't want something overly erratic in cold water, it doesn't look natural. But the HJ does for that time of year. Plus at about $5-6 per lure I'm not as concerned when they get sheered off by a scud missile pike. Above 50 degrees I use a lot of different jerk baits but am looking forward to trying out the new Berkley Stunna this year...

I have a 702 and also a dedicated BFS rod for Neds. The BFS rod gets the BFS reel, works awesome... don’t need a deep spool for that. However, my 702 gets something with more line and strength... an Alphas CT SV70 - works great for shakey heads, smaller tubes, flukes.

Caught Jan 5 from the yak I said I’d never own ?‍♂️

12 lb YZH

It’s good line, a little thicker and more stretch compared to its competitors.

Agree, there are some techniques it’s an advantage to have the longer handle, tuck and just wind the lure in (i.e. spinnerbait). But to work a fluke, soft jerk bait, twitch a worm or a tube, or anything where you’re putting action into the lure, I like a shorter handle so it’s not rubbing against my forearm or side all day.

Don’t know if you’re looking at the Medium power rods, but in my case I chose the 7’1” Mojo over the 7’0” Premier. Biggest reason was that the handle on the Mojo was almost 2 inches shorter. If working a plastic, tube, etc. the longer handle of the Premier seemed cumbersome to me. If just doing a straight retrieve lure - spinnerbait, Buzzbait, etc. handle length probably wouldn’t matter as much.

Ya’ll leave my man Festus alone! Lol

Where do I sign up?? Sounds like a blast... I’m sure all it costs is money?

What's the rule in this type of tournament? Do you have to use a paddle... or can you pedal like a Hobie Mirage? I'd like to use my Lithium battery and 45 lb thrust, but they'd likely find out

The Phenix Feather 7'1" MH is an extra fast and excellent when using fluorocarbon for 1/4-3/8 Texas-Rigs, jigs. Great bottom contact rod too with fluoro. I'd say its 90% as sensitive as my NRX for 1/4 the price. Used to be $149, but up to $159 now although if you can wait for a sale can get it for less.

I skip all my weightless wacky worms and 1/16th oz weighted Nekos with my 852/Steez SV. Works great!

The great equalizer...

Looks like a 2/0 EWG snap pea to me ?

I routinely start with finesse on higher pressured lakes where I’m familiar with a handful of high percentage spots. These spots will get hammered throughout the day, so I get there early and pick them apart best I can with finesse... then move to search mode (power) as the other boats start to show up.

My T-Rig rod is a MH XF 7’1” Phenix Feather. Weighs just a tad over 3 ounces! Light, sensitive, strong backbone. Extra Fast tip good to “feel” the rig in/around cover. $150-170 ish won’t break the bank.

The secret is out! Eliminator is a good one... it is flat and doesn't interfere with action or hook up percentage - yet it really makes a statement in the water when you need it. Another trailer I use when the water is warm and you are retrieving at faster speeds is a Zoom Ultra Vibe Speed craw. When the water is cold and you want minimal movement but something tasty I go with the Powerbait version of the Grass Pig... its a bit stiffer plastic than the original version... oink, oink !

I use a Storm Arashi Cover Pop because I can either retrieve it like a popper or walk it like a wake bait... or vary it during the retrieve. A lot of times with a little experimenting you find what the fish prefer. Great, versatile lure -