JustJames

There are plenty of ppl using braid for big swimbait type successfully, tactical bassing come in mind. I’m not a fan though especially braid to leader, there are more thing can go wrong especially with connection knot strength. If I were you and if I didn’t have a choice I would go with 65 braid no leader. As you might already know with the right rod you can swing 2-3oz lure 50-60yds easily. Maybe get a proper reel for just swimbait, Daiwa 2-300 series?

Bass would eat anything that move. I’ve seen plenty of time, bass in my lake boiling over bluegill and Shad but not crappie. I bet you if I throw live bluegill VS live crappie, the bluegill would get eaten twice or three time as fast but both would end up is Bass stomach after all.

You won’t go wrong with either. Most of my rod are Shimano Zodias/Crucial and Tatula. For Ark rod I used to have one. It quite heavy and also tip heavy when compare with both Zodias/Tatula. For budget in mind nothing beat Tatula rod.

A lot of reel would do the same when you have light pressure press on thumbar when engaging. Sound when reel might come for a couple of thing, dry bearing, dry worm gear or even main gear itself and too much spool tension. Use drop of oil on spool bearings, worm gear and spool tension cap to see if it help. Otherwise the reel might need some service. It is a good practice to clean/service the reel right away when you buy used one.

For up to 3oz lure I use 200 size reel. I have 15lb Izorline line on both Curado 200ipg and Cardiff 200. I think hybrid 15lb will do just fine but 17-20lb will be on the safe size and really hard to brake off when snag. I always fish open water and not a lot of cover so smaller size line works for me.

I just drag split shot rig, trout worm with #6 bait holder hook.

The problem is when catching those jumper size 1-2lb. Senko can come out of o-ring easily or shrink tube edge can also cut into Senko. I have tried them all. The bigger smooth surface of tubing would be harder to tear plastic compare to just hook alone. And if this tubing can in fact act like line thru, it would save a lot of tearing Senko.

That is pretty good idea and I might try some too. I already have some ideas of what I’m gonna use for inserts tubing and might help even more action. I’ll post result once I know for sure it works. As of now I only use pre-shrink tube that tight fit on Senko. It lasts a few fish but with smaller/ jumper one the worm get tear in half from sharp edges of shrink tube.

Remember catching some nice bass with Neko rig last fall. I use same weight for deep or shallow, fishing fast or slow but I change plastic. I prefer Zman (finessez and ZinkerZ) and 6” fat roboworm in Fall and use yum dinger and Senko other times.

I’m just saying.

There is a guy selling SLP1010 spool not too long ago. That should be best compromise between light weight and regular weight lure plus line capacity. The next would be SV105 spool where I can up my line choice to 10-12lb FC and still have capable of light weight and skipping. I have Ray’s spool on mine not aiming for light weight lure but mostly for trouble free 15lb braid. I can skip 3/32oz Neko rig or Fatika with ease.

Or as crazy as I am. I mean if OP wanna go through on the trouble of getting warranty, shipping and also wait time for good working reel for just imperfection of tiny part, by all mean it his choice. If he can just walk into local store and exchange for a new reel might be different story.

Wow really? Im the only one seeing nothing wrong with this? Yes the brake block is in imperfect shape but I wouldn’t call defect. The portion that is in contact with brass drum is on the opposite side. As long as that block can clip into its place as off position, there is nothing wrong with it. You can see sign (dirty) of portion that in contact, nothing to do where OP point out.

It is just not perfect. It’s not gonna affect the performance, since the part that act as brake is on the opposite site.

Got a package today and to my wife surprise it is not a fishing lures. This is getting expensive, I think I lost more golf balls than fishing lures.???

Just got a quote from Uship for 2800. I’m not sure if I should get this boat after all. The boat belong to a son of my wife’s cousin in SC. The boat is pretty much brand new 2019 with 2 HDS 7 and Ultrex trolling motor. He is looking for someone to take ownership of the boat (15,000). I used to have small Jon boat (deck out for bass) but sold it since I only used the boat a couple times that year. I still have float tube and kayak which I hardly use too. The reason my wife considered this boat because she wants to help him out and we have a nephew that just start and love bass fishing. I want to put him on some nice bass here. He already got his first frog bass and his GF got her first 4-5lber. I’m not sure though how long they gonna come and fish with me. I myself I don’t really care much, I only fish short hours before or after work. D a m n this is hard decision, anyone around SC looking for bass boat?

Yeah we’ve heard about Uship and trying to get a quote from them. They need a lot more info than I have, length weight etc. this is gonna be for tracker pro 170. I have heard somewhere around 1500-2000.

Anyone have any idea how much would it cost to transport a bass boat, from South Carolina to South California? Any recommendations or how to?

If I were to diagnose the problem myself and from tackle advisor video, AR clutch doesn’t seem to go bad easily unless put it back incorrectly. I never messed up with AR clutch though, every reel I clean I don’t really touch them only a drop of oil and q-tip to clean it. I have AR clutch slipped on one of my reel due to grease got in there, but that would have some resistance or unless I jerk the handle really hard. I clean those grease out with REM oil and also act like lubricant. I think AR clutch is about 10 dollars plus shipping from Shimano. How much is your reel worth?

Eating bass? ???

You might missed align the switch to the hole under AR clutch? When service Shimano reel I normally don’t mess up with the clutch, remove the whole thing, and clean with q-tip around the roller. Did you open the clutch? You might have to rebuild it or order new one. I’m not sure if you FX got the same AR clutch.

You base your combo from comfortable and feel not price. Doesn’t matter how much the combo cost or how sensitive the rod, if you don’t feel comfortable and not connected to the rod, you wouldn’t feel a slight movement/change.

Brake is that just brake, spool tension is more like emergency brake. Why you can only cast 80’ with no brake. Using spool tension, you restrict the spin rate at all cast length, using brake you apply restrictions only when needed( when spool spin the fastest). You use thumb mostly to stop spool and tether the line when the line start to come loose out of spool.

When I first got into kayak, some told me to use the lure to position kayak. That how I do it cast to different directions when kayak move and try to get back to target without using paddle.