JustJames

I’m not retired yet but shouldn’t be too long. I’m not really looking forward for retire life though. Things might change, more time for the boss not bass, more traveling but still place where I can fish or golf. I just love my life right now, I live where I dream to retire to. I can fish and golf every day if I wanted too. I work night(been doing for 10 plus year) so I can spend time doing my things during the day when my wife is at work(of course weekend only for the boss/wife). BTW I used to be a coffee snob, buy small variety of coffee beans (Kona is my favorite) and grind them fresh in small batch, so I can have fresh hot black coffee 2-3 cups a day. Now I settled with just Keurig cup so I have more time fishing.???

The closet to symetre is Sahara and Nasci. You might be able to use those bail assembly. You can call Shimano and ask, they might even have old stock of parts but not listed on their site.

I use both left and right hand reel and can cast with both, though my right is main dominant hand. I started casting left when out on a small 14’ Jon boat with my buddy and don’t have enough room to cast right. The accuracy and distance is far behind my right cast. The only thing my left is better than right is when backhand casting light weight lure.

This is the time I see a lot of catching reports from underspin given that my lake is land of cool bait (a lot of cool bait owner, worker and pro live here lol)

Normally upgrade bearing not gonna gain much benefit compare to just flush and clean old bearing. I suggest you try the latter first and see if any improvements (you might be surprised). Now those two reels are OEM reels which might or might not use high grade bearing like Daiwa/Shimano. you might be able to get SS bearing that would fit your reel a lot cheaper than stock bearing. You goal though is not for longest cast but mainly for smooth operation and last longer. Keep in mind though, your Revo X would need special tool to remove the spool shaft pin (15-30bucks). I’m not sure about CA80.

Which Daiwa 5.1 gearset? If the gear set is not from the same platform chance of not fitting is very high. Time and effort I think buying a new reel is way easier.

I have seen it mentioned before about plastic worm gear on Daiwa got some defective and cause clicking especially when loaded (more expensive model). Or it might be just as simple as a tiny debris get between main/pinion gear or worm gear. If you never open a reel before and it is still under warranty, send it back. Or find any professional to look at it.

This ^^^^ Zaion frame is stronger/rigid and lighter ( 0.7-1oz) than composite. I doubt any bass fishing can really tell the difference. Tatula got aluminum main/pinion gear where as Fuego Zinc alloy. Tatula should retain smooth feel for years and years but Zinc Alloy with proper maintenance can last a life time too. Magseal is great for protection but harder on self maintenance unless you have those magnetic fluid (don’t use regular oil as I see one of them mentioned here). Tatula would be a little smoother/lower inertia but not by much at all. I gave my good friend my Fuego LT and keep Tatula not because it is more expensive or better but for the technique I fish I want as light as possible and at least I don’t have to worry about maintenance his reel much.

Dropshot would be my #1 choice but I do fish it weightless double fluke style (donkey rig) as well. It is really good bait for fall transition to winter when primary bait fish is Shad. I only use 2.5-3” on jig head under float when target crappie as well as bass.

Believe it or not, Cardiff 200 was the first reel I started when bass fishing. That was 20 years ago. I still have the reel and use it until this day.

“conventional rod” saltwater???

If you look for one overall setup for different techniques, mono/Copolymer is hard to be beat. Just like every other here, it is good excuse to buy new reels for different line type and size. Each line type and size can be used for it full potential for different techniques. Braid for improve sensitivity and hook up on long cast or ability to cut thru weed better than other line. FC for sink rate and also improve sensitivity especially in windy. Copolymer for abrasion resistance, knot strength, natural movement of the lure on lighter line.

May be a drop of oil on spool bearings might help the noise.

I do it sometimes but always at the same manner, 1. when the lure free fall on slack line. 2. When fishing in windy days, especially with braid. 3. When holding rod tip high for dropshot. 4. When slow reel retrieve for jig. I have developed the trust in my rod that I can feel even slight pressure change in the line, but when line is slack, any rod or even super sensitive rod might not transfer the change as well as a touch from fingers. I palm all my reels 3 or all finger in front of trigger and don’t have any problem. I use my finger every possible way to feel the line, lay underneath, on top on even on spool. It become automatic for me.

I don’t have either but curado 70 was my jerkbait reel for years (base on line capacity and size of reel) . The biggest line I use for jerkbait is 10lb Copolymer and 70 provide more than enough of line capacity. I don’t fish anything bigger than LC pointer 95, mostly 78 (8lb Copolymer/10lb FC). This year I tried with alphas SV TW, I like it better than my old alphas SV105, palm better just like Curado 70. About the distance my Curado win hand down on LC pointer 78 and up. I’m not sure about the 70 MGL but if anything like SLX 70 MGL, I don’t think you would see much difference between 70MGL and alphas SV.

I started to like pumpkin punisher more and more for dropshot and Neko rig.

Just a small 1-2lb wolf pack roaming around in my home lake.

I agree with @jimmyjoeto seek for professional. It is not a lot more difficult than baitcaster but there are too many tiny parts that can be mess up on spinning compare to pretty straightforward baitcaster. If this your only reel and if you never open one I suggest search for local service, ask tackle store. The basic maintenance that you should do is oil the roller bearing and clean/grease drag stacks . Alll other bearing plus gear internal pretty much used grease or heavy weight oil. Any reels oil should work but I prefer cal drag or Shimano star drag which be used for both drag stack and gears.

You owe yourself to try Daiwa LT series in the same class as Vanford before go to the next level. The Vanford is nice, solid smooth, strong drag, but Daiwa is airy smooth and lower inertia. I like ATD drag on daiwa better especially for super light line. It seems weaker but it only give drag when needed. I got ballistics FW (JDM) compare to Vanford 2000S (JDM) and that super smooth reel. Almost got Luvias airity but MQ body scare me a bit when the 50 dollars tool to remove side plate doesn’t work with all MQ reel.

This is what I plan to use on my next day off.

If not super thick weed, I like weightless worm that not too heavy to sink down too much and buried into the weed. Zoom trick worm, Roboworm 6” straight tail fat are good, drag on top of weed finding pocket holes and let them sink down. Another method that work for me is dropshot around weed edge or holes. I always go small on the hook size to get is as low profile as possible, roboworm rebarb #1 1/0 or Gamakatsu ewg #2 work for me.

Still do it from time to time.

Tell me about it ???. I tried double uni knot once and it d**n hard to tie with 8-10lb braid. I only use uni know and trilene knot from 4lb all the way to 30lb and it hardly ever fail me. I know it is not strongest knot but I still need wooden dowel to brake 15lb braid when snagged.

Double uni knot. Fish-fool knot, is it just uni knot with double loops on hook eye, correct? I never use this knot. I am not sure if double hook eye loop would help much to prevent slippage on braid, mono maybe?

Yes if you need to adjust to your liking, just ignore that override zero adjustment from Daiwa. Even two reels same model might not have same adjustment come out of factory. But Daiwa think, and so do as other Daiwa users, that little to none tension is best performance for Magforce reel. A lot trend to use spool tension a little too much and then complain about casting distance. Now a lot not gonna agree with me here about how to set spool tension, but let me say it here and ymmv. 1. Lure fall slowly, this you will restrict the spool rotation across the whole range, thus extremely control and least distance. Most suit for beginner. 2. lure fall freely and stop when hit the ground, this is depend on weight of lure if you set with 1/2oz lure once you use the same reel with Senko, spool become too restricted, unless of course you change spool tension every time you change lure. Same concept if you set with lighter lure, but with heavier lure become too freely. You can easily stop spool with your eyes and thumb, once the lure fall down close to water surface ( add benefit of softer landing and accuracy). This setting is good if you using similar type lure and weight for same setup all the time and worry free, like jig or top water. **** weight and shape lure would effect free falling rate/stop*** 3. now do you need spool tension?, this up to your thumb education, no shame to use either one or two methods above. You still don’t want too loose of tension to eliminate vibration of spool and would effect casting and control. How I set my (none zero adjustment) I set to as little side to side play as possible. If I started getting professional overrun (in wind or at night) I’ll add brake dial a click or two first before I touch spool tension. The reel with zero adjuster I leave it as is. I use same reel for every thing from Neko rig/wacky rig to 3/8-1/2 jig. I set to where I can cast lightest lure comfortable for that reel and never change because heavier lure you don’t really need much more control. Zillion (3/8oz), Pixy (1/8oz) Alphas 105 SV(1/4oz)